Project Vitamin C-10

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

looking good Alan...that bed wood is gonna be really nice....did you ever decide on doing anything else with the tailgate, or are you just gonna leave it painted solid?

Thanks and I will leave the TG plain and simple. The only accents to the outside will be the custom trim. I have a thing against emblems and pin stripes. I like them on others, but i like a simple look.

I called the drive line shop (Ron's driveline in Gainesville) Steve was super nice and helpfull. He lives close to my work and will bring home a yoke and U joint tonight and I will pick it up in the AM. He told me to slide the yoke in til it bottoms and back it out 3/4" and measure center of cap to center of cap.

[Alan's Classic]

I measured the driveshaft like the shop told me and it came to 59" to the CL of the caps.

Also applied the peel and seal. Boy, that stuff is sticky. Better make sure it doesn't conatct something you don't wantit to, because it's not coming back up in one piece. I haven't done around the passenger side firewall yet. I have to see where my AC and heater lines will be.

Also got the majority of the carpet done. Some might say it is too soon and it might be. It will be more comfortable to lay on when I'm under the dash.

[Strodder]

What are you going to use on the firewall under the dash?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

What are you going to use on the firewall under the dash?

Not sure yet. Any suggestions?

[Alan's Classic]

Quick question, I'm starting to run wire and I'm at the brake light switch. I used a ohm meter to check the switch. It's got constant continuity unless it is depressed. That is opposite of what I think it should be. I think it should get continuity when depressed so it energizes the brake light. Am I smoking crack?

EDIT: I think I'm wrong I was thinking wrong as usual.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Quick question, I'm starting to run wire and I'm at the brake light switch. I used a ohm meter to check the switch. It's got constant continuity unless it is depressed. That is opposite of what I think it should be. I think it should get continuity when depressed so it energizes the brake light. Am I smoking crack?

EDIT: I think I'm wrong I was thinking wrong as usual.

When it's compressed the switch is off if it's on the bench. Or are you checking it in the truck by depressing the brake pedal?
I didn't see that last sentence. DOHH also.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

When it's compressed the switch is off if it's on the bench. Or are you checking it in the truck by depressing the brake pedal?
I didn't see that last sentence. DOHH also.

Thanks for the reply anyway.

As mentioned before the wiring has begun. At first it was a little overwhelming with a hand full of wires. Once you break it down to one wire at a time it's not too bad.............yet. Got the steering column done in the cab and I'm almost done with the ignition in the cab. Loosely running things as I go and will secure everything last.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Not sure yet. Any suggestions?

I think just a repro firewall pad.... they are perforated for the different acc. but nothing is punched out.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I think just a repro firewall pad.... they are perforated for the different acc. but nothing is punched out.

That's what I used on the 57 Sedan Delivery I'm working on.

[bubba327]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Quick question, I'm starting to run wire and I'm at the brake light switch. I used a ohm meter to check the switch. It's got constant continuity unless it is depressed. That is opposite of what I think it should be. I think it should get continuity when depressed so it energizes the brake light. Am I smoking crack?

EDIT: I think I'm wrong I was thinking wrong as usual.

Wiring is the best part!! the brake switch is a normally closed switch and will have continuity through the contacts.

A switch or relay is referred to as having contacts normally open or normally closed. This is the contact position of the switch or relay ,UN-installed and no interference with the operating mechanism, in the at rest position .

Some switch's and relays can also be a double pole or triple pole with one set being open and one set being closed.

When installed the brake pedal arm holds the contacts open, until you press on the brake allowing the contacts to close and the light to come on.

[chevy_man5]

Originally Posted by bubba327

Wiring is the best part!!

Of course an electrician would make a comment like this!....Oh wait, an electrical inspector now!

[shortbed70]

Looking good Alan and I'm with you, Carpet is much more cozy to lay on... And I hate wiring!
Posted via Mobile Device

[chas350]

134 pages wow!
What a great build thread Alan. Very humble for such a talented guy!

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Finally getting back on it. Decided to work on the hood. I cut the problem areas out so the sand blaster can get to the inside of the corners.

The right corner was the worst of the two sides.





I'm holding a chunk of filler that was packed in the corner.





This is the Left side.





It only had pin holes. I will clean the rust and weld the holds and reinstall.





I'm going to use extra cowl side panels to cut out patches. The contour is already there. Since I couldn't give them away I figured why not put them to good use. They can also be used to repair door check strap damage.

I'm glad when I run across these kind of repairs.
It restores hope.

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I have an extra hood that isn't any good on the outside, but has a good inner structure. I'll cut patches out of it to repair the bad areas.

This is where I am.
I now have two hoods.
I just picked up a hood nice on the big open surface across the top, but needs some help around the inner supports.
My hood is pretty banged up all across the top but is rust free.

So between your post and Bugeye's thread, I think I can make one really nice hood.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415609

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I think just a repro firewall pad.... they are perforated for the different acc. but nothing is punched out.

Originally Posted by Strodder

That's what I used on the 57 Sedan Delivery I'm working on.

That's definately a thought. I might have the upholstery shop try something. When I get it all done.

Originally Posted by bubba327

Wiring is the best part!! the brake switch is a normally closed switch and will have continuity through the contacts.

A switch or relay is referred to as having contacts normally open or normally closed. This is the contact position of the switch or relay ,UN-installed and no interference with the operating mechanism, in the at rest position .

Some switch's and relays can also be a double pole or triple pole with one set being open and one set being closed.

When installed the brake pedal arm holds the contacts open, until you press on the brake allowing the contacts to close and the light to come on.

Thanks for the explanation.

Originally Posted by chevy_man5

Of course an electrician would make a comment like this!....Oh wait, an electrical inspector now!

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Looking good Alan and I'm with you, Carpet is much more cozy to lay on... And I hate wiring!
Posted via Mobile Device

The carpet does help. I wish i knew more about wiring. It's kind of like wanting to learn another language. Maybe I'll get around to it someday. Wait that someday is here as far as wiring.

Originally Posted by chas350

134 pages wow!
What a great build thread Alan. Very humble for such a talented guy!

Thanks and I can't believe it has taken me this long to get it done. Heck, it's not done yet.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I'm glad when I run across these kind of repairs.
It restores hope.



This is where I am.
I now have two hoods.
I just picked up a hood nice on the big open surface across the top, but needs some help around the inner supports.
My hood is pretty banged up all across the top but is rust free.

So between your post and Bugeye's thread, I think I can make one really nice hood.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415609

Good luck, I will check out the link.

I'm back after being without power for 26 hours due to a EF1 tornado that was spawned from tropical storm Lee. It had a 24 mile track and passed within a mile from the house. We didn't have any damage at the house, but 400 other homes had damage or were destroyed. Things are getting back to normal.

I did get 2 light coats sprayed yesterday. It was looking very nice until it started drying. it sunk in some, but still looks 100% better than before. I have to get another quart and lightly sand and spray again.

I also pick up my drive shaft tomorrow.

[bubba327]

Glad you are okay!!!!!
Alan you are an inspiration for all of us to continue on our projects.
I wish mine was finished but I realize that we are having too much fun driving it now to pull it off the road ...

Remember---- no hurricanes in Montana!!!!!

[Strodder]

Yeah, glad your OK. Close call huh?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bubba327

Glad you are okay!!!!!
Alan you are an inspiration for all of us to continue on our projects.
I wish mine was finished but I realize that we are having too much fun driving it now to pull it off the road ...

Remember---- no hurricanes in Montana!!!!!

Thanks Bubba, I wish I was was driving mine now. No hurricanes, but they have had frost already in northern MT. It was 58 this morning here and I put on a long sleeve shirt.

Originally Posted by Strodder

Yeah, glad your OK. Close call huh?

Too close for me.

The first pic shows a close call. I installed the wiper motor and realized it will be close to the radio, thinking the radio might not fit. It does clear, not by much.

Drive shaft is in for a test fit. I will be removing it to paint it later.

Also installed the 175 amp maxi fuse. This should be a safe place and out of the way. The wiring is not secured yet. Once I get everything inplace and working. I'll try to clean it up some. It won't be as nice as I would like it, but I'll do my best.

[6772owner]

The truck is coming along great, keep it up, I love the routing of the wiring so far, nice and clean!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 6772owner

The truck is coming along great, keep it up, I love the routing of the wiring so far, nice and clean!

Thanks, I was hoping to work on the truck tonight, but I've got a bad headache. Time to rest. I was able to sand the wood down with 600 today. So it's not all lost.

[chad64chevy]

its like you have said progress is progress right!!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

its like you have said progress is progress right!!

That's it in a nut shell.

I cracked open another bag of wires tonight (late) and studied the diagrams for a few minutes. Bubba or any other elctrical guru stayed tuned. I will study them tomorrow and see if I can figure it out. No matter if I figure it or not I will post pics of the schematic and my crazy idea of how I think i should do it. Then get graded. My problem area is the fan relay and all related parts.

[bubba327]

tuned in!!! I wish I was closer .... I'd come over and help!!!

[Strodder]

Yeah me too, between all of us, we can really f*ck it up.

[bubba327]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Yeah me too, between all of us, we can really f*ck it up.

I can't scratch the paint from here!!!!