looking to swap a 6.2L

[1tonchevy]

[QUOTE=ky_kid;4914843]Will a 6.5 Turbo bolt up to my transmission? It's a 4L80E. I found a complete 93 2WD 6.5 TD donor truck with only a bad trans.[/QUOte

What trans is in the donor truck and what trans is in your's?

[ky_kid]

Not sure but I know it's an automatic. I'll have to check... I suppose it has to be the 700-R4 (4L60E) or the 4L80E

[ky_kid]

It's a 1 ton so hopefully the 4L80E like what I'm currently running
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[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by ky_kid

It's a 1 ton so hopefully the 4L80E like what I'm currently running
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if it's the same you need the TQ verter out of it. if not you need the Diesel one that matches your trans

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

Don't worry about swapping the entire wiring harness; it really is super simple. You won't have any wires left dangling or un-used. There's 3 wires on the injection pump: 1 is the power wire where your power to coil wire goes, and the other two are wired into a single feed coming from the starter and a sensor on the passenger side of the block for the cold start "fast idle" solenoid. You don't need to hook those up. The alternator wires in exactly as your SBC does.

The temperature sensor controlled wire is the HPCA (housing pressure cold advance). HPCA advances the injection timing about 6 degrees when the block is below 125F to make cold starts easier. I would hook it up. The HPCA temperature sensor can be wired to the same power source as the fuel cutoff. If there's a jumper wire to the starter keep it.

Since this is coming from a donor truck... I'd grab the wires from the firewall terminals to the Temp, Oil, Alt, Injection pump, glow plug relay, and AC if you have it. The Packard terminals slide right out of the firewall plug when you release them. Wear gloves the firewall plug is greasy and nasty.

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

You WILL need 2 batteries. Grab the secondary battery mount out of the donor truck while you're in the junkyard. I use 2 Red Top Optima 1000cca batteries in mine.

The original dual battery setup attaches the grounds to the block or heads and the left battery positive to the right battery positive. The right battery positive then goes to the starter.

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

IMPORTANT... I completely forgot about this until just now. Get brand new starter bolts (they're a metric thread, but you can get them at any auto parts store in the self help aisle). I snapped one off inside the block and had a hell of a time drilling it back out. They stretch over time and weaken.

The starter brace (it goes from the tail of the starter to the block) is a must have part. You will break off the bolts without it. There were 2 types of starter braces. The brace for the big old heavy Delco starter is discontinued so junkyard expeditions are the only way you will get this one. GM still has braces for the high torque gear reduction Delco. If you are missing the brace or brace and starter. I would take the opportunity to upgrade to the gear reduction starter GM used on the later 6.5 (95-2000??). It's always a good idea to replace the long bolts.