Project Vitamin C-10

[57truckguy]

Alan I hope it helps but in my fumbling around I bow to the masters and found a guy on the net who seems to fit that bill.. He states that 30 should always be power with a fuse of some kind, 85 always goes to ground, 86 to a switch of some kind, be it manual or automatic, 87 is the output to fans, lights and etc. 87a to power a second electrical device when 87 ie light or fan is off. wire to 30 and from 87 should be of the same size, 85 can be smaller since it is only a ground and usually short, and wire to 86 can be smaller as it is used only to trigger or turn on the relay. Clear as mud.. ???? I have more diagrams if you need and can post tomorrow or sunday if you need. actually I think that is today since it is after midnight.. Ha ha !!!

when I sent him an email years ago asking the same question about if it makes and difference which way to connect, he said that later on I would benfit if my wiring conformed to some standard and would ease stacing problems in the future.

[57truckguy]

Oh I vote CHROME all the way..

[pdxhall]

Can't say chrome or paint cause it's been so long since seeing anything but bits and pieces of the truck. How about an updated pic of the full truck?

[Strodder]

They have that connector in the American Auto Wire kit. You are using that wiring aren't you?

I'm a chrome whore, so I say CHROME. Also it's practical as it won't get road chips. I would go with a chrome grill also to match the bumper. I was going to paint my grill, but now that I have a chrome one, I'm glad I made that choice.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Vernski

My mind votes Chrome....Vernski

Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by 57truckguy

Alan I hope it helps but in my fumbling around I bow to the masters and found a guy on the net who seems to fit that bill.. He states that 30 should always be power with a fuse of some kind, 85 always goes to ground, 86 to a switch of some kind, be it manual or automatic, 87 is the output to fans, lights and etc. 87a to power a second electrical device when 87 ie light or fan is off. wire to 30 and from 87 should be of the same size, 85 can be smaller since it is only a ground and usually short, and wire to 86 can be smaller as it is used only to trigger or turn on the relay. Clear as mud.. ???? I have more diagrams if you need and can post tomorrow or sunday if you need. actually I think that is today since it is after midnight.. Ha ha !!!

when I sent him an email years ago asking the same question about if it makes and difference which way to connect, he said that later on I would benfit if my wiring conformed to some standard and would ease stacing problems in the future.

Thanks for telling me what 87a did. Now I completely understand a relay now.

Originally Posted by 57truckguy

Oh I vote CHROME all the way..

Originally Posted by pdxhall

Can't say chrome or paint cause it's been so long since seeing anything but bits and pieces of the truck. How about an updated pic of the full truck?

These are 2 of the latest full view. Hope it's enough.

Originally Posted by Strodder

They have that connector in the American Auto Wire kit. You are using that wiring aren't you?

I'm a chrome whore, so I say CHROME. Also it's practical as it won't get road chips. I would go with a chrome grill also to match the bumper. I was going to paint my grill, but now that I have a chrome one, I'm glad I made that choice.

I thought it came in the kit as well. I looked for it last night. No luck. I looked again today with fresh eyes and more light and found it. By looking at it it's kind of deceiving. It looks like I will have to cut the tab off for it to clip on.

I still might run a painted grill, sice i have a prestine one.



I'm going to redo the tube and make it come straight down to the sensor.



Thanks to Shannon again, he provided me with some SS material that I can make some ground straps out of. Thanks Buddy.



I discovered the main cause of this. Which cause the bed wood not to layflat across the sill.



I forgot to install the bolts in the very back holes of the bedside into the rear sill. It was allowing the sill to roll. It helped a lot, but sill had to use a BFH.



Looks better now. I need another person to help me get it all bolted down.

[padresag]

I think that the chrome bumpers would enhance it much more than what the painted ones would. I think that it would bring more energy to the orange.
ron

[McMurphy]

Just to chime in here...
I think if you trimmed in your front face like b2948kevin did in the attached pic, with your silver, and then chromed your grill and bumper, it would tie in with the rest of the paint scheme very nicely!

Just an idea.

The way you plan things out Alan, I am surprised you didnt do a color mock up first.

pic from b2948kevin's Project 1966 Stepside LWB thread

[pdxhall]

Thanks for the pic. At first thought I was going with the painted bumper, but after seeing the truck again I agree with the others that chrome bumpers would look great.

[57truckguy]

I still might run a painted grill, sice i have a prestine one.


Allen the connector that you show in the post earlier is for an HEI distributor. I don't believe it is for the temp sensor.. I used a couple of thoes both a brown and a white one to hook up my HEI distributor. I would just change to a differant senor as there are several available at the NAPA store... MY O Rilley guy was willing to look throught the book and find one with spades connectors and the right size.. Be use to check for SAE ver MM. some of the newer intakes have MM size threads... Grrrrrrrrrrr.. You can also get them in almost any degree range you would prefer. I run a 190, with the 31 by 19 in alumium radiator it never gets any warmer then that. I had to put in a thermostate to get the engine to get above 165. Not a bad problem to have since the BB chevys are prone to running hot.. At least they used to in the 60's when I was driving my friends 60 corvette. Dropped in a BB in 68 and got our first ticket just 3 hours later.. what a blast.

[BuiltByBrooks]

Wow looks awesome!!!!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by padresag

I think that the chrome bumpers would enhance it much more than what the painted ones would. I think that it would bring more energy to the orange.
ron

I tend to agree.

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Just to chime in here...
I think if you trimmed in your front face like b2948kevin did in the attached pic, with your silver, and then chromed your grill and bumper, it would tie in with the rest of the paint scheme very nicely!

Just an idea.

The way you plan things out Alan, I am surprised you didnt do a color mock up first.

pic from b2948kevin's Project 1966 Stepside LWB thread

Thanks for the pic and suggestion. It's a good idea. From day one I knew I wasn't going to paint the white back in the headlight mount panel. I was undecided either the pastel green from back in the day or orange. Hugger Orange is my favorite color and then I saw the cream over orange on a 67 C10. It looked awesome and I knew then what I wanted. So I had the pic in my head. He had the bumpers painted the silver that is on my roof. That combo just complimented each other so well. I think i will try chrome bumpers and painted grill for now. I'll go from there. You never know my mount panel may end up painted silver with a chrome grill.

Originally Posted by pdxhall

Thanks for the pic. At first thought I was going with the painted bumper, but after seeing the truck again I agree with the others that chrome bumpers would look great.

Originally Posted by 57truckguy

I still might run a painted grill, sice i have a prestine one.


Allen the connector that you show in the post earlier is for an HEI distributor. I don't believe it is for the temp sensor.. I used a couple of thoes both a brown and a white one to hook up my HEI distributor. I would just change to a differant senor as there are several available at the NAPA store... MY O Rilley guy was willing to look throught the book and find one with spades connectors and the right size.. Be use to check for SAE ver MM. some of the newer intakes have MM size threads... Grrrrrrrrrrr.. You can also get them in almost any degree range you would prefer. I run a 190, with the 31 by 19 in alumium radiator it never gets any warmer then that. I had to put in a thermostate to get the engine to get above 165. Not a bad problem to have since the BB chevys are prone to running hot.. At least they used to in the 60's when I was driving my friends 60 corvette. Dropped in a BB in 68 and got our first ticket just 3 hours later.. what a blast.

Thanks for the tips and headsup on the connector. It was fixin' to get modified.

Originally Posted by BuiltByBrooks

Wow looks awesome!!!!

Thanks Man!!

[Alan's Classic]

With me you never know what I might be working on next. Since I haven't got the QD's yet for the grill area and can't do anything to the b I decided to start the wiring on the AC. It was a little over whelming to look at thbig picture, but once I brke it down wire by wire it was pretty straight forward.

I decided to organize the electrical supply so it would be in one place and within arms reach.

[57truckguy]

Alan, don't do like I did and try to add a trinard switch that turns on an additional raditor fan automaticly when the air is tunrned on... LOL added a great bit of complexity to the project and as a result I'm had the air installed for two years and still haven't finished it. heater works but no air.. One day i'm going to finish it. the air it mean, the truck will never be done.


I like what you've done and I wish I had the time and money to complete it.

[57truckguy]

Alan, just wanted to mention that when I was messing around looking for temp sensors was at a local raditor shop talking to him and he mentioned durning the conversation that sealing tape should never be used when installling the temp sensor, disrupts the ground connection. He said that pipe dope or something similar should be used and won't interferr with the ground of the sensor.. Just saying, hoping to save you a problem later on. when I was looking back at the install of the temp sensor it appears that you have sealing tape on the threads, If not I appolize for butting in..

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 57truckguy

Alan, don't do like I did and try to add a trinard switch that turns on an additional raditor fan automaticly when the air is tunrned on... LOL added a great bit of complexity to the project and as a result I'm had the air installed for two years and still haven't finished it. heater works but no air.. One day i'm going to finish it. the air it mean, the truck will never be done.


I like what you've done and I wish I had the time and money to complete it.

I don't even know what a trinard switch is.

Originally Posted by 57truckguy

Alan, just wanted to mention that when I was messing around looking for temp sensors was at a local raditor shop talking to him and he mentioned durning the conversation that sealing tape should never be used when installling the temp sensor, disrupts the ground connection. He said that pipe dope or something similar should be used and won't interferr with the ground of the sensor.. Just saying, hoping to save you a problem later on. when I was looking back at the install of the temp sensor it appears that you have sealing tape on the threads, If not I appolize for butting in..

You are right mine is taped. Now that I think about it it makes sense on how it could effect the ground. Thanks for the headsup.

Got the connectors for the grill QD today.

[Alan's Classic]

Oh yeah, I'm flip flopping on the bumpers. I like the chrome look, but don't like the rust that comes with chrome.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Oh yeah, I'm flip flopping on the bumpers. I like the chrome look, but don't like the rust that comes with chrome.

Paint the back of the bumper with black or silver Rustoleum, and keep the chrome polished.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Paint the back of the bumper with black or silver Rustoleum, and keep the chrome polished.

That is an option. Thanks

Headlights anyone? I'll be sure to clean the grounding point after the grill gets painted.

[57truckguy]

Alan, a trinard switch does a couple of things.
1/ it will turn on an axillary fan to help keep the engine cool as the hot r134 going throught the condensor in front of the raditor restrics the cool air flow through the raditor especially when at idle or in traffic ie parade duty..
2/ it turns off the ac when the pressure is either too high , think explosion, or too low in the ac system..

hints the name trinary switch.

I don't know why but it had or has me befussled.. LOL it really is not that compilicated but the wiring has given me fits.. Some times I get to anal for my own good..

[57truckguy]

when I posted I see you are on line also.. Let there be light.. One of the biggest mistakes I made when wiring my truck was switching the ground and the low beam wires on the head lights... when I powered it up and was testing the 4way flashers the dash light flashed along with with every light on the truck.. Called EZ Wire after messing with it for 6 months and Steve knew just what I'd done.. I ask where was he 6 months ago and he said sitting there in his office waiting for me to call... Ha Ha LMAO

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by 57truckguy

2/ it turns off the ac when the pressure is either too high , think explosion, or too low in the ac system..

hints the name trinary switch.

I thought the high pressure switch shut the A/C down when the pressure got too high. Or is that called a trinary switch also?

[57truckguy]

Strodder, the way I understand it the binary or High pressure switch does just what you said it also shuts off the compressor when the pressure get to low. the trinary switch adds the capabality of also turning on a fan automaticly when the compressor is running.. clear as mud... LOL Hope that helps,,

[Alan's Classic]

Trying 198plus rear bumper to see what it looks like on there. It's just tacked in place.

I also finished up the headlight harness.

[Hubscrub]

truck looks sweet, nice work

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Bugeyev8

Alan, here is what I figured out for the summut radiator

Hose is a Gates 21620, application was 88 GMC Surburban 3/4 with AC, I cut one bend off the end and it fits good, I tried a few and this is the best I found, I am happy with it as I am not building a show truck...just a runner

Here are a few pics of the hose

I finally got around to do this. They didn't carry gates but they crossed it to a Dayco. I have discovered with my engine moved forward it's too cramped for this hose in any way. I didn't cut it just tried to fit it. No mater what I did it wanted to kink. The parts store had a book with pics and deminsions. I will research it more. Thanks again for the info.

I did make my upper radiator hose today. I went by the muffler shop and had them bend the pipe. It's just a little undersized. I'll see if they can expand it for me. Over all it turned out pretty nice.