Which lift do you recommend? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

77K20 · 08-08-2003, 12:30 PM

I am planning to lift my truck in the near future. I originally wanted to go 8in total. 6in suspension and 2in body. But I don't have the money for rotating axles, and longer drivelines, and everything else that is involved with a lift over 4in. So I am thinking I will go 4in suspension and 2in body for a total of 6in. I want to know what lift you guys would reccomend I get, and also which ones I should stay away from. Also what is the difficulty of installing a 4in and 2in lift myself? What areas are problematic and I should be extra careful around? I want to go with rear springs instead of blocks, is there any advantage or disadvantage to this? I know it is a bit more expensive, but I like the look better and that is what I want.

Thanks in advance for any and all info.

2-Knee

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-08-2003, 12:44 PM

Some people say the drive line is fine w/ 6" others say you have to lengthen the driveshafts, you shouldn't have to rotate the diffs. As far as installing the springs and steering arm and shocks it's just a matter of being able to remove the old bolts. On my 70 I had replaced the bushings in the stock springs and new bolts so when I installed the new front springs it was real easy to get the bolts out. What size tires you going to run? I recommend Tuff Country EZ ride or Skyjacker soft ride springs front and rear. The advantage to springs in the rear- no axle wrap when taking off. Blocks increase the amount of leverage on the springs and you'll eat up u-joints.

**Yukon Jack** · 08-08-2003, 01:13 PM

I also recommend the Tuff Country springs. Install is really pretty straight forward. Just got to watch out for rusty bolts. The can be a pain. Give some thought to a shackle flip like offered from www.offroaddesign.com. That is what I'm using and like it. You can see some pics of my install on my website.

**MJN** · 08-08-2003, 11:35 PM

Superlift or Skyjacker lifts, and if you want a six inch lift, your driveline will be fine without any modifications. The only thing you will need is the extended brake hoses. Otherwise the lift kit comes with shocks, blocks or springs and the steering arm for the axle. You need to order shock boots separate. I've never had a problem with blocks in the back, but springs are better for the obvious reasons. These two companies have been rated the best lift for '67-'72 chevs too. I think the Skyjacker Softride is too soft, the truck feels too squishey when cornering and going over rough roads, but on the road it's alright, I prefer a regular lift.

77K20 · 08-09-2003, 01:55 AM

I thought that I read somehwere on here that any lift over 4in will need driveline mods, rotated axles and a few other things in order for it to work. Wouldn't there be to much angle in the driveline? Is there anything that would have to be done with a 6in lift that wouldn't have to be done with a 4in? What about steering? I am still in the learning phase and don't yet know a whole lot about my truck and all of its compnents. If someone could write up a list of all the things involved for a 4in lift as well as a 6in lift I would breatly appreciate that. Then I could have a better understanding of what I would need to get and what the labor process would involve. Are there some places on-line that you guys have used and been satisfied with service, product, and price?

Thanks in advance for any and all info.

2-Knee

**Richard** · 08-09-2003, 01:10 PM

A 6" lift usually does not require driveline mods, especially if you use blocks in the back with the offset pins (or shackle flip). With a 6" lift the back is usually only raised 4" and an 8" it will be only 6". So if you use an add-a-leaf and block for the 8" the back should be ok (or add-a-leaf shackle flip) . The front driveline for the 8" may need to be lengthend and the CV will most likely need to be clearanced to allow movement. 3 degree shims are usually attached to the 8" front springs in most kits and you can use the steering arm along with a drop pitman arm for steering corrections. The steering will be no worse than stock or 2" lift. The arm will be fine with a 6" lift.
A crossover setup is not required but can improve bump steer if done properly using a dropped pitman arm and raised steering arm to level out the drag link. If longer brake lines are not in the budget, you can relocate the hard lines to below the frame rail using angle brackets it drops the mounting point about 3". I am not a big fan of body lifts myself as they will damage the cab and core support in time, the damage is excellerated on newer trucks as the metal is much thinner. It is an inexpensive way to go but you get what you pay for.
Disclaimer- all this info has been derived from my personal experience in lifting and modifing trucks and is in no way the only answer. There are lot of opinions, so have fun and be sure to be safe when making mods as there are other people on the road. I have seen some scary stuff!
I have never used Tuff-Country but have seen that their spring rates ar less than most of the other companys including Skyjacker and Superlift. A lower spring rate equals a more compliant ride and the springs usually settle a bit more.
I hope some of this helps you.

stlaser · 08-09-2003, 04:09 PM

You do not have to rotate your diffs on a six inch lift. Maybe if you are lifting a blazer. I had a stock standard bed K30 the frame is now shortened by 24" and I have a six inch lift installed, I am reporting no problems because the angles look fine. If you would like to see some extreme angles go to http://www.highangledriveline.com There you can see the need for rotating your diffs. And I personally like http://bds-suspension.com check out there warranty and you'll see why I love'em. Good Luck

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-10-2003, 12:09 AM

I've heard of people having problems w/ the front drive shaft angles if they don't have a cv jointed driveshaft.

stlaser · 08-10-2003, 07:46 AM

I was under the impression that this guy is lifting a 77 K20 if so there should already be a CV joint in that driveshaft.

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-10-2003, 12:43 PM

That's what I was trying to imply, multi-tasking can get the best of you sometimes, at least that's what I was thinking. LOL

http://www.truckworld.com/How-To-Tec...uspension.html

77K20 · 08-10-2003, 01:21 PM

Thanks to all your guys' info. While it still may be a little while longer before I lift my truck, you guys have definetly given me some ideas and things to think about. After reading that article that JIMs70GMC posted, I am going to give some serious thought to Skyjacker. What should I look into as far as steering goes? As stated before I am still learning about my truck, and have not yet become familiar with my steering components. Thanks again for all your help.

2-Knee

blazerboy72 · 08-10-2003, 06:50 PM

I have an 8" skyjacker lift and love it. For steering i am just using a raised steering arm. If you cant afford longer brake lines you can use brake lines off of a 3/4 ton 2wd pickup.

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-10-2003, 08:51 PM

The raised steering arms are good for 4-6" so you should be good with one. The steering arm is cheaper than the 2" drop pitman arm. The drop drag links are expensive and the ones I've seen are for 2-4" drop. Go with the raised steering arm.

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-11-2003, 08:54 PM

It appears that skyjacker now has a raised steering arm that corrects for 6.5" to 8" of lift.

**Richard** · 08-12-2003, 12:22 AM

I did not think that piece was available anymore. I had used the 8" arm and the 2" pitman arm on my 85 Chev when I had 10" springs made. The arm was just the standard type with a block cast in one piece. It came with longer studs. The block may have had something to do with braking that arm clean off the axle. You ever try to get hardened studs out that are broke off flush

Dont really recommend the drop drag links. They do absolutly nothing except aleviate the ball joint angles while conecting point A to point B. Bump steer will still be exagerated over stock.

alf4444 · 08-12-2003, 10:23 AM

drivelines do have to be lengthened i just finished putting 6 under the front of my 78 and the drivline doesn't even touch any more. Lengthaning is cheap anyway.

77K20 · 08-12-2003, 10:55 AM

How much is "cheap" for lengthening drivelines? I'm sure prices vary depending on who and where it is done, but what is a ball park figure? If a driveline is lengthend, does it lose or gain any durability? and how is it done? I will probably start hitting up my local 4x4 shops to get and compare prices this weekend. Are there any other things that can/should be done, but aren't absolutely necassary, that havn't been mentioned already? I appreciate everyone's info on the subject.

2-Knee

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-14-2003, 04:52 AM

Around my area there are several driveline shops, probably under $150 to lengthen a driveshaft.

86K10 Guy · 08-14-2003, 01:48 PM

I know when I raised my 86' k10 four inches...used the 4'' drop steering arm and had my drive shafts custom made from the stock 2" or 2.5" diameter tube to 4'' heavy duty driveshafts..and replaced the stock u joints with high end after market U Joints,worth all the effort! Had this done at Thrash Driveshafts..been in business for quite awhile...very good work. I used trailmaster 3 degree wedge blocks in rear and have not had any problems with pinion angles and u joint problems. The front spring were custom built by shop here in San Antonio, Tx.

Put Rancho 9000 shock all the way around + Rancho steering stabalizer. I know the dropped steering arm was kinda of overkill for a 4" inch lift...but these truck have inherent problems with frame weaking at the steering box mounting area to begin with..did not want to push my luck with added stress of a lift to this area...Has worked out great with no ill effects to the truck and or suspension. Good luck with your mods...bro!

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-15-2003, 08:27 AM

Richard, I got my new classic industries catalog and they had it listed along w/ a dropped drag link, 2" drop pitman arm, and the 4-6" steering arm.

70blazer · 08-20-2003, 02:25 AM

Has anyone ever had their springs re-arched to a 4" lift instead of purchasing new springs. I am considering this for my 69 3/4 ton 4x4.

alf4444 · 08-20-2003, 01:18 PM

A local buddy from another forum is doing my front driveline for free said he could do the rear just wouldn't be able to balance it. I just pay for materials.

08-08-2003, 12:30 PM	#1
77K20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Estacada, OR Posts: 37	Which lift do you recommend? I am planning to lift my truck in the near future. I originally wanted to go 8in total. 6in suspension and 2in body. But I don't have the money for rotating axles, and longer drivelines, and everything else that is involved with a lift over 4in. So I am thinking I will go 4in suspension and 2in body for a total of 6in. I want to know what lift you guys would reccomend I get, and also which ones I should stay away from. Also what is the difficulty of installing a 4in and 2in lift myself? What areas are problematic and I should be extra careful around? I want to go with rear springs instead of blocks, is there any advantage or disadvantage to this? I know it is a bit more expensive, but I like the look better and that is what I want. Thanks in advance for any and all info. 2-Knee

08-08-2003, 12:44 PM	#2
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Some people say the drive line is fine w/ 6" others say you have to lengthen the driveshafts, you shouldn't have to rotate the diffs. As far as installing the springs and steering arm and shocks it's just a matter of being able to remove the old bolts. On my 70 I had replaced the bushings in the stock springs and new bolts so when I installed the new front springs it was real easy to get the bolts out. What size tires you going to run? I recommend Tuff Country EZ ride or Skyjacker soft ride springs front and rear. The advantage to springs in the rear- no axle wrap when taking off. Blocks increase the amount of leverage on the springs and you'll eat up u-joints. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-08-2003, 01:13 PM	#3
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,683	I also recommend the Tuff Country springs. Install is really pretty straight forward. Just got to watch out for rusty bolts. The can be a pain. Give some thought to a shackle flip like offered from www.offroaddesign.com. That is what I'm using and like it. You can see some pics of my install on my website. __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

08-08-2003, 11:35 PM	#4
MJN Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Maquoketa, Ia/ Orr, Mn Posts: 2,985	Superlift or Skyjacker lifts, and if you want a six inch lift, your driveline will be fine without any modifications. The only thing you will need is the extended brake hoses. Otherwise the lift kit comes with shocks, blocks or springs and the steering arm for the axle. You need to order shock boots separate. I've never had a problem with blocks in the back, but springs are better for the obvious reasons. These two companies have been rated the best lift for '67-'72 chevs too. I think the Skyjacker Softride is too soft, the truck feels too squishey when cornering and going over rough roads, but on the road it's alright, I prefer a regular lift. Last edited by MJN; 08-08-2003 at 11:39 PM.

08-09-2003, 01:10 PM	#6
Richard Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,752	A 6" lift usually does not require driveline mods, especially if you use blocks in the back with the offset pins (or shackle flip). With a 6" lift the back is usually only raised 4" and an 8" it will be only 6". So if you use an add-a-leaf and block for the 8" the back should be ok (or add-a-leaf shackle flip) . The front driveline for the 8" may need to be lengthend and the CV will most likely need to be clearanced to allow movement. 3 degree shims are usually attached to the 8" front springs in most kits and you can use the steering arm along with a drop pitman arm for steering corrections. The steering will be no worse than stock or 2" lift. The arm will be fine with a 6" lift. A crossover setup is not required but can improve bump steer if done properly using a dropped pitman arm and raised steering arm to level out the drag link. If longer brake lines are not in the budget, you can relocate the hard lines to below the frame rail using angle brackets it drops the mounting point about 3". I am not a big fan of body lifts myself as they will damage the cab and core support in time, the damage is excellerated on newer trucks as the metal is much thinner. It is an inexpensive way to go but you get what you pay for. Disclaimer- all this info has been derived from my personal experience in lifting and modifing trucks and is in no way the only answer. There are lot of opinions, so have fun and be sure to be safe when making mods as there are other people on the road. I have seen some scary stuff! I have never used Tuff-Country but have seen that their spring rates ar less than most of the other companys including Skyjacker and Superlift. A lower spring rate equals a more compliant ride and the springs usually settle a bit more. I hope some of this helps you. __________________ Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746

08-09-2003, 01:55 AM	#5
77K20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Estacada, OR Posts: 37	I thought that I read somehwere on here that any lift over 4in will need driveline mods, rotated axles and a few other things in order for it to work. Wouldn't there be to much angle in the driveline? Is there anything that would have to be done with a 6in lift that wouldn't have to be done with a 4in? What about steering? I am still in the learning phase and don't yet know a whole lot about my truck and all of its compnents. If someone could write up a list of all the things involved for a 4in lift as well as a 6in lift I would breatly appreciate that. Then I could have a better understanding of what I would need to get and what the labor process would involve. Are there some places on-line that you guys have used and been satisfied with service, product, and price? Thanks in advance for any and all info. 2-Knee

08-09-2003, 04:09 PM	#7
stlaser Fabricator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Indiana Posts: 156	You do not have to rotate your diffs on a six inch lift. Maybe if you are lifting a blazer. I had a stock standard bed K30 the frame is now shortened by 24" and I have a six inch lift installed, I am reporting no problems because the angles look fine. If you would like to see some extreme angles go to http://www.highangledriveline.com There you can see the need for rotating your diffs. And I personally like http://bds-suspension.com check out there warranty and you'll see why I love'em. Good Luck __________________ 84 C30 Chassis 60 & 14, 454/400/NP205 Retroing 98 X-tended Cab Built with the blood and sweat from the hands of a Chevy man.

08-10-2003, 12:09 AM	#8
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I've heard of people having problems w/ the front drive shaft angles if they don't have a cv jointed driveshaft. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-10-2003, 07:46 AM	#9
stlaser Fabricator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Indiana Posts: 156	I was under the impression that this guy is lifting a 77 K20 if so there should already be a CV joint in that driveshaft. __________________ 84 C30 Chassis 60 & 14, 454/400/NP205 Retroing 98 X-tended Cab Built with the blood and sweat from the hands of a Chevy man.

08-10-2003, 12:43 PM	#10
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	That's what I was trying to imply, multi-tasking can get the best of you sometimes, at least that's what I was thinking. LOL http://www.truckworld.com/How-To-Tec...uspension.html __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm Last edited by JIMs70GMC; 08-10-2003 at 12:45 PM.

08-10-2003, 01:21 PM	#11
77K20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Estacada, OR Posts: 37	Thanks to all your guys' info. While it still may be a little while longer before I lift my truck, you guys have definetly given me some ideas and things to think about. After reading that article that JIMs70GMC posted, I am going to give some serious thought to Skyjacker. What should I look into as far as steering goes? As stated before I am still learning about my truck, and have not yet become familiar with my steering components. Thanks again for all your help. 2-Knee

08-10-2003, 06:50 PM	#12
blazerboy72 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Temple, Ga Posts: 854	I have an 8" skyjacker lift and love it. For steering i am just using a raised steering arm. If you cant afford longer brake lines you can use brake lines off of a 3/4 ton 2wd pickup.

08-10-2003, 08:51 PM	#13
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	The raised steering arms are good for 4-6" so you should be good with one. The steering arm is cheaper than the 2" drop pitman arm. The drop drag links are expensive and the ones I've seen are for 2-4" drop. Go with the raised steering arm. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-11-2003, 08:54 PM	#14
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	It appears that skyjacker now has a raised steering arm that corrects for 6.5" to 8" of lift. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-12-2003, 12:22 AM	#15
Richard Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,752	I did not think that piece was available anymore. I had used the 8" arm and the 2" pitman arm on my 85 Chev when I had 10" springs made. The arm was just the standard type with a block cast in one piece. It came with longer studs. The block may have had something to do with braking that arm clean off the axle. You ever try to get hardened studs out that are broke off flush Dont really recommend the drop drag links. They do absolutly nothing except aleviate the ball joint angles while conecting point A to point B. Bump steer will still be exagerated over stock. __________________ Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746 Last edited by Richard; 08-12-2003 at 12:25 AM.



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08-12-2003, 10:23 AM	#16
alf4444 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: taylorsville, UT Posts: 778	drivelines do have to be lengthened i just finished putting 6 under the front of my 78 and the drivline doesn't even touch any more. Lengthaning is cheap anyway. __________________ 2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com

08-12-2003, 10:55 AM	#17
77K20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Estacada, OR Posts: 37	How much is "cheap" for lengthening drivelines? I'm sure prices vary depending on who and where it is done, but what is a ball park figure? If a driveline is lengthend, does it lose or gain any durability? and how is it done? I will probably start hitting up my local 4x4 shops to get and compare prices this weekend. Are there any other things that can/should be done, but aren't absolutely necassary, that havn't been mentioned already? I appreciate everyone's info on the subject. 2-Knee

08-14-2003, 04:52 AM	#18
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Around my area there are several driveline shops, probably under $150 to lengthen a driveshaft. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-14-2003, 01:48 PM	#19
86K10 Guy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5	Lift... I know when I raised my 86' k10 four inches...used the 4'' drop steering arm and had my drive shafts custom made from the stock 2" or 2.5" diameter tube to 4'' heavy duty driveshafts..and replaced the stock u joints with high end after market U Joints,worth all the effort! Had this done at Thrash Driveshafts..been in business for quite awhile...very good work. I used trailmaster 3 degree wedge blocks in rear and have not had any problems with pinion angles and u joint problems. The front spring were custom built by shop here in San Antonio, Tx. Put Rancho 9000 shock all the way around + Rancho steering stabalizer. I know the dropped steering arm was kinda of overkill for a 4" inch lift...but these truck have inherent problems with frame weaking at the steering box mounting area to begin with..did not want to push my luck with added stress of a lift to this area...Has worked out great with no ill effects to the truck and or suspension. Good luck with your mods...bro! Last edited by 86K10 Guy; 08-14-2003 at 01:52 PM.

08-15-2003, 08:27 AM	#20
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Richard, I got my new classic industries catalog and they had it listed along w/ a dropped drag link, 2" drop pitman arm, and the 4-6" steering arm. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-20-2003, 02:25 AM	#21
70blazer Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Utah Posts: 239	Has anyone ever had their springs re-arched to a 4" lift instead of purchasing new springs. I am considering this for my 69 3/4 ton 4x4. __________________ 1967 Suburban, my kids call it the SuburBEAN cuz its long and green.

08-20-2003, 01:18 PM	#22
alf4444 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: taylorsville, UT Posts: 778	A local buddy from another forum is doing my front driveline for free said he could do the rear just wouldn't be able to balance it. I just pay for materials. __________________ 2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com

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