Killswitch, Engage!

[profe56]

I think we are very concern about our trucks could be stolen, specially for all of that time we dedicate to make them look good, my truck I could say is hard to be steal it because is mostly garaged behind three cars, but when rats wants stolen some times they tow them.
I was victim of 10 stolen cars, only one recovered.

[obsesive23]

I have been playing around with the idea of using a couple of line lock set ups, anybody else thought of something like that? Other than routing the brake lines to a discrette location should be mostly invisible. If the brakes are locked it won't move even if they get it started.

[rpmerf]

On my truck I have an air raid siren hooked up to the doors and hood. I have a secondary set of door triggers(just like the set for the interior light) and a microswitch(WOT switch) under the hood. The alarm is activated my a keyed switch on the fender. This alarm was installed a long time ago, and I need to go through and install new switches and wires since the old ones are a bit worn and don't always work. When it does work, its freaking loud! The air raid siren is a real attention grabber. I am going to hook this up to an ignition kill relay. The wire going to the coil would be good.

Really, the fact that I have to move the shifter up is enough to keep people from stealing my truck. I'm sure they couldn't even figure out how to open the hood. My truck does have that beat to hell and back look so that kind of deters thieves also.

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

The way I described the hooking up, it will in fact click when the key is turned. The whole truck will still have power since a stock 67 - 72 has the power taken directly at the battery for vehicle power and the cable only feeds the starter. The purple wire will get power and kick the gear out against the flywheel, but there will be no power on the cable to feed the starter motor. *CLICK*
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Great!!! I think this has to be the best low buck, low tech anti theft option out there. I'm pretty dense on the soleniod still and even though someone tried to explain it. I clicked the link provided, but don't know which one to use.

So, can someone please dumb this down for me:

1. Which solednoid is needed: Grounded, Insulate or Solid State?
2. How do you wire this new 3 prong solenoid in like Longhorn Man suggested?

I know someone explained #2 already, but I'm still not grasping it...maybe a simple diagram or something for people like me that need a visual? Thanks!!!

[a_barth]

I drew up a simple schematic but I'm not sure how to post it, sorry newb

[rpmerf]

http://photobucket.com/

http://imageshack.us/

[a_barth]

Figured out photobucket, will post simple wiring diagram when I get home tonight. Thanks rpmerf.

[a_barth]

Here it is, nobody laugh this was the best I could do

Let me know if there are any questions.

[tubbedII]

Thanks a ton a_barth! I noticed the linked solenoids posted earlier only have 3 posts, but your diagram shows it with 4...is there supposed to be 4?

Also, I don't see how this would make the starter *CLICK* if the momentary switch isn't activated.

[a_barth]

The solenoid I showed is the Ford style that has to be grounded, the ones in the link are grounded through the feet that mount them. Also the click that long horn man referred to would be created by the factory solenoid on the starter, the purple wire is still energized just like from the factory so this solenoid will still actuate but with the "security" solenoid not activated there will be no power to turn the motor. This will create the illusion of a dead battery.
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[rpmerf]

I would think it would be easier to put a relay on the starter wire coming from the ign switch? You can use a simple 30 amp relay that you would get at any parts store for about $5. Does the purple wire being active and getting no power from the main power wire cause the click?

[a_barth]

That is correct, the purple wire being active and no power at the main power wire causes the click. My thought was that if wired this way and the solenoid was mounted in a locked or sealed box it would be more difficult to hot wire from underhood.

You could just as easily put a solenoid on the ignition wire coming from the switch it just depends on how you want to go. This method would not click and if a theif was able to get under the hood the truck could still be cranked with two lengths of wire.

[NobleSix]

a_barth: thanks for the picture. i had an idea but really couldnt get it visualized. i still like the idea of putting a lock on the e-brake, just in case.

[a_barth]

A lock on the e-brake is a good idea, it will at least slow down a thief. It's pretty easy to cut an e-brake cable though, it all boils down to how long the thieves are able to spend figuring out a problem. Most thieves probably wouldn't even care about the e-brake. If the engine can overpower it they'll probably just ride it out.

The thing is no matter what we do, if determined enough, thieves are gonna try to take advantage of a situation. All we can do is try to make our trucks as safe as possible.

My plan is a hidden starter switch, a hood lock, a hidden fuel shut-off, a loud enough exhaust to hear if it cranks, and a loaded .40 cal. Glock close at hand.

[NobleSix]

amen to that .40, barth. my exhaust is straight piped and it ends just behind the cab/before the bed. she sounds like i got 3 harleys under the hood lol. im also hoping that the chain and other stuff i plan on will be enough to keep her in my driveway, or atleast keep her where i put her last.