Cardone Brake Booster question

[tomfg]

I have the Cardone 50-3715 dual master / booster combo to convert my 64 to power brakes, (like the one in the attached photo) and I'm about to the point where I have to figure out how to modify the "booster to brake pedal" rod.

Does the rods come out of the Cardone boosters so it could be easily modified? I didn't want to pull it out and damage the diaphram, or not be able to get it back together.

The end of the rod in the new booster has a hole for a pin, but I don't
think I could hook up the old and new rod with a pin in the middle, as the rod would likely flex up when the brake pedal is applied.

I would like to remove the rod from the Cardone booster, cut the end off, thread the rod, and do the same to a portion of the old rod, and couple them together.

Thanks for any help!

[kieth]

this booster is made to work with a spacer bracket like the one captain fab makes, and it will also need a cantilevered assembly.that makes it work by being pulled rather than being pushed...I ran into the same thing and had to go with a different booster. Kieth

The only place I have seen this booster being used was on a 72 c10 with the canti lever parts.

[tomfg]

Kieth, I was told on this forum to get a booster / mc combo to fit a 1967 to 1970 Chevy,
in order for it to work for my "drum / drum" setup.
Looking up on O'Rielly Auto parts, the combo for a 67 Chevy C-10 says
the Cardone 50-3715 as shown in the photo.

Are you saying that the booster rod actually pulls away from the booster
to apply the brakes?

Thanks, Tom

[jocko]

Tom, Keith,
I do not believe you will need the cantilever setup with Capt Fab's bracket and the above booster/mc combo - and I do not believe a cantilever setup fits inside Capt Fab's bracket - I am pretty sure it is designed for a straight-push arrangement, but I'll let him answer that definitively. If I recall correctly, the bracket will need to have a couple mounting holes elongated to mount the 67 booster, that's all.

As for the rod, I am not certain if it can be removed easily from the booster either, but it does need to have the loop end cut off, then you can either weld it to the brake push rod (that comes from the pedal) or better yet, thread it to allow you to do some fine tuning of the push rod length.

Hope that helps.
jocko

EDIT: forgot to mention, you'll want to adjust the length of the pushrod so that you have a very slight amount of pedal travel before the pushrod starts to move anything in the booster. And you'll want to make this fine-tune adjustment of pushrod length with the engine running (vac signal on the booster) so that it emulates actual booster position during driving conditions (i.e. with engine off and no vac signal, the bottom-out point of where the booster receives the brake pushrod will be different than when there is a vac signal).

[Captainfab]

Jocko is correct. There is no need for a 'cantilever' or bellcrank assembly of any sort with my bracket. It is designed for a direct push from the brake pedal arm. Tomfg, since the booster/master assebly you have is for a '67-'72, it is designed for the '67-'72 assembly which does use a bellcrank in the connection to the brake pedal arm. To use this on your truck, the eye will need to be cut off, and either welded to your original master cylinder pushrod, or threaded and coupled with a coupling nut. You can also use an aftermarket pushrod if you choose. The original master cylinder pushrods already have an adjustment provision, so there is no need for another one. When welding to the booster pushrod, just be careful as to not get the pushrod too hot.

[MusicMan70]

In regards to my 61 GMC;
I was not able to remove the eyelet rod in back either(although I'm told with great force it is possible). I didn't want to cut the eyelet so I added the shorter version(two hole) of the brake cantilever bracket to the CaptainFab unit. The cantilever bracket comes with a threaded rod on the back which can be unscrewed and extended. I got some allthread and couplers and joined the two and made it adjustable. A bit twisted method I guess, but it worked for me.
I still would'nt have Power Brakes if it wasn't for Captain Fab!

[tomfg]

Whew........ I was worried all night that I'd have to take the booster unit back and wait another week for a different one, and pay a big restocking fee to boot.
Guess my best bet is to cut the eyelet off and thread the end...... if I can
hold the rod in the booster somehow.
Thanks!

[64shortbox]

tomfg,
Definately get the booster bracket from fabcraft. It's the ONLY way to go. It's an excellent piece and even comes with the mounting bolts.
Here's what I did:
1) bracket from captainfab
2) cut eye off booster push rod & thread rod to 3/8" X 24
3) one 3/8" X 24 coupling nut, three 3/8"X24 jam nuts, one female 3/8" X 24 heim end, short piece 3/8" X 24 all thread rod. About $20.00 from OSH

4) you might want to check this link out from Speedway. I didn't see this
until after I had done my set up and this would be less money.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...524#tabcontent

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...DisplayId=9329

[tomfg]

64Shortbox, Thanks for the photos.
Your rod setup looks nice and neat,
and gives me a couple of ideas.

[jocko]

one more option Tom - you could do just like 64shortbox did (which is a very nice installation in my book!) except cut appropriately and then just weld (without threading the recently cut booster rod end) the long adjusting nut (i.e. the deep turnbuckle-lookin nut) to the booster rod you just cut - then have all your adjustability in the threaded brake pushrod end of the deal only. you might have a little bit less adjustability range than if you threaded both - and you'd need to make sure you don't have it set up such that the pedal pushrod is just barely hangin in there (i.e. snap risk) and you'd probably be good to go!