Project "My Happy Mess"

[litew8]

ty Ryan.

Notice I didn't wrap the "junction" or the three wires (blue/white/red) near the radiator support with the other wires.
That's because I'm waiting until we're certain everyting is accurate (pretty sure the illustration is accurate and that I did wire it correctly).
Using an 8AWG wire from the alternator>"junction">cab/battery Charge wire - insures I will have adequate amps at idle (especially, since it will have plenty of compression to condend with).

- I'll wrap them better/together afterwards. I may get a "junction" block to mount to the driver's fender at a later date and rewire the "junction" to the block instead. like this
- It'd be a cleaner install and allow me to add wires without having to reopen the "junction" to access the wires.

The only thing remaining (that I can remember) is bolting the torque converter to the flywheel. That'll take a few minutes.
Then add oil, fluids, etc... real quick and we should be able to fire her up!!

[litew8]

The above wiring diagram isn't correct.
Here are some revised pictures of the wiring, with hopefully better detail.
Keep in mind, this is for a 3 wire configuration, not 1 wire.

[JDeere550]

hey i was wondering if thats your orginal junction box or if you know where i could find one? i put all wiring in my truck with new fuse panel for modern fuses but ended up junkin the orginal junction box because it was all tore up. otherwise, this thing is lookin good! thanks!

[litew8]

Sorry, the Amazon link above isn't working now.
Our trucks didn't come with a "junction block" on the driver's side.
Chevy just put the wires together (as shown in pic above, a wire "junction") crimped them together and wrapped.
(The only junction block I know of that is original is the tiny one on the passenger's fender, by the battery.)

For the upgrade, I had to cut the original factory wire junction (pic 3 above) clamp/crimp out to upgrade to the 8AWG wires (due to having 100A SI alternator now).
8AWG is recommended. Factory AWG is too small. The black wire is a fuseable link that goes to the cab I believe.

Here's the junction "block" I'm considering for a future upgrade.
Chevrolet-1974-1982-Corvette-Junction-Block
I guess we can't post Amazon links. Just do a search on Amazon and it'll come up.

[litew8]

Oh, you're talking about on the firewall (fuse block)? Yeah, it's all original. Not sure who might sell them. Maybe in a complete wire harness kit.

Originally Posted by JDeere550

hey i was wondering if thats your orginal junction box or if you know where i could find one? i put all wiring in my truck with new fuse panel for modern fuses but ended up junkin the orginal junction box because it was all tore up. otherwise, this thing is lookin good! thanks!

[litew8]

More problems sponsored by, "My Happy Mess"

We realized that the detent (kickdown) cable on the transmission was
broken near the base. Maybe it hit the firewall just right when we
installed the engine and transmission. We can't have this piece busted
since it helps regulate downshifting when I put the pedal to the metal.


I order a different cable that came with a mounting bracket for the
manifold. It's a Lokar kit (KD-2350U). First thing we realize
after receiving it is that the mounting bracket doesn't align correctly with
rear intake manifold bolt holes. So we pulled the bracket apart to adjust
the distance between the two, and it worked. Next thing we notice is that
there's no way the bracket is going to clear the valve cover. The bracket
is angled too much and it'd hit. I called Summit tech line and questioned the
kit's fitment. I can tell all he did was look it up on the internet and couldn't
provide any real insight. He says I didn't have all the necessary brackets.
I say it came with it, and he mentions there's another bracket that is
a "related" item for it. YEAH, riiiight, I'm going to buy ANOTHER bracket.

So... more modifications are necessary.
Here's how the bracket would have sat on the manifold -




Modified -

We simply hammered down the tabs to near 90 degree angles so that it'd
sit on the manifold at a more upright position, clearing the valve cover. I
used a towel and hammer. The towel prevented scratching the finish.






And this is how it ended up on the manifold






Other -

Painted the timing mark white on the harmonic balancer. Notice the issue
here? Since the timing chain cover is aluminum, it seems it's a slightly
thicker casting (remember the fitment issue with the water pump?)

The timing marker sits out too far when mounted, and almost covers the
entire surface end of the harmonic balancer, nearly concealing the timing
line. To help visually see the line when we shoot it with a timing gun, I
painted the line white.



-----
We tested electricity little more today too. The fan works good! (never
really did before) Since there's a lever busted on the backside of the
controler, I have to manually open or close the door inside of the heater
box by hand, inside of the cab. It's easy to reach. I think the only
downside to keeping it open (full air flow) is that it will draw in too much
air when it's cold. The opening of the flap/door in the heater box regulates
with the fan speed. The door is slightly opened when the fan is switched
to low speed, opens more with med. speed and opens fully when the fan is
set on high speed.

Previously I found a tear in the defrost vent tube next to the oil pressure
line when I installed the instrument cluster. I taped it up by wrapping a few
times with Gorilla tape. Sealed it nice. Now I've got full air to the defrost.


-----
Since I don't have a horn button, we used a screwdriver on the steering
wheel to jump it. We could hear the horn relay kickin under the dash by
the fuse box, but no horns.

[hgs_notes]

Don't you just love it when you tell yourself, "all I have to do is this this and this and it's running" Then all these little details consume the tim trying to figure how to make each thing work as intended. Keep plugging away though and it'll be done soon enough.

[litew8]

the "improvements" need special attention.

[litew8]

Today's plan -

1) Hook up detent cable to transmission
2) Drill out stud hole on carb to accommodate old stud for linking detent cable
4) Replace fuel hose piece to fuel pump
4) Add fluids
5) Double check grounds and fuses
6) Check horn connections under dash. See if horns are fried.

Never had a horn button during my ownership.
Could be a PO removed the horn button because the horns got fried.

[litew8]

Realizing I need to learn how to count ^.
Hate how this forum doesn't allow editing after a few minutes.
Didn't have time to finish everything on the list, but should get it all tomorrow.

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by litew8

Realizing I need to learn how to count ^.
Hate how this forum doesn't allow editing after a few minutes.
Didn't have time to finish everything on the list, but should get it all tomorrow.

x2 on the I Hate the Timed Editing

[litew8]

Got the detent (kickdown) cable installed, drilled out stud hole on Holley carb and installed the old kickdown cable stud. Haven't adjusted it yet. Replaced that piece of fuel line. Went to check one inline fuse and the fuse busted inside. These are old holders and were difficult to open, so I went ahead and replaced both inline fuse holders with new style holders/blade fuses. Will check the horns tomorrow, maybe they need to be grounded (paint removed) as they bolt directly to the rad support. Got pics, will post later.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Finished reading thru your build. nice truck! and nice work man. I'm in to see it the rest of the way. keep up the good work.

[litew8]

Thanks ChevyMan.

Here's a few misc. pics of the fuse holders I bought to replace the old ones with (I've since soldered them on both L/R sides) and the transmission detent (kickdown) cable (in case some don't know it).

New (4A mini fuses) -





Old (4A fuses) -






Transmission detent (kickdown) cable next to dipstick -




Extra - Another "picture puzzle" for The Pit Boss to figure out.








Thanks for looking all. Hopefully more progress soon.
It is DAMN COLD here! We're working out of a heated garage, but the cold
zaps my energy.

[litew8]

Edelbrock power graph


Edelbrock top end kit dyno matched to produce.
Though take into consideration exhaust etc...

Before I once said I wanted "to go fast!", clarified - I want
to go fast off the line up to driving speed. I'm not a speed freak.

[72KAY20]

Really enjoyed your build thread. Very very nice work!!! Got some good ideas from you for my current 72 K20 rebuild. Love your detail.

I saw that you found number 441 in a lot of places. On my 72 I found the number 329 handwritten in quite a few places (firewall, behind dash, gas tank behind seat, top of transmission bell housing, stamped into top edge of firewall above brake booster). I went ahead and hand wrote the number again on the parts after they were painted. Maybe one day we'll hear from someone that worked at a GM plant and give us some history on those numbers.

Looking forward to your future posts.

[litew8]

Thank you for the kind words 72KAY20, glad you are finding some info useful.

The bad news is, we're not going to be able to paint this winter.
Too cold and our ventilation system sucks too much hot air out of the garage.
The good news is, maybe we'll try and fire it up today!

Here are some more pics for The Pit Boss. No puzzle.

[litew8]

Well, that didn't work! After all that work, turns out the base of the transmission dipstick tube has a hairline crack in the base and transmission fluid was seeping out after 2qt. The fluid must have been coming from running down the tube on the inside, since 2qt isn't enough to reach the base of the tube from the bottom up. Went and bought another dipstick/tube and will install later. Oh well.

[litew8]

For those that are still looking, I'm still here. Haven't fired it yet. Christmas time and all. Update on the horns - we wired them directly. Of the two, one didn't sound at all, the other did... for a while, until it too burned up. Now there are none.

[hgs_notes]

I have some horns in the garage I think if you need them.

[litew8]

hgs, I'll send you a PM.
-----

Christmas week update. Probably won't get much done the rest of this week.
But I'll post what I could find, and what I did the last few days.

Found a pic I hadn't posted early on. The aluminum cam button we used.
Machined by a local. Yeah, I'm cheap.






Decided to go ahead and rewire the electric fan with a plug.
Took a trip to the junkyard the other day. It was nice and muddy,
from the rain the day before. Yay.

They only had two Jeep's, completely stripped. No plug. On my way
out I was looking desperately for anything that would work. I needed
the right sized AWG to match up with the fan/relay wires. The only other
requirement - it needed to be a two wire connector (+,-). Sorry all, but
I found a nice sized connector off a *ord. While walking by,
I seen one end sitting there. I thought to myself, the other end has to
be nearby! Sure enough , it was on the other side of the engine
bay. I quickly ripped out the wire holders and cheap loom, cut the wires
with enough to spare - and was on my way. 2 bucks. Not bad ,
considering all the local stores couldn't produce.

Had some shrink tube large enough to cover the ends, so I figured why not?
(I'll never need to use this large of shrink tube for anything else (was part of a kit)).










Shrink tube - will reduce to 1/2 it's size, using a mini torch or heat gun.






Shrunk -






Next, I soldered one end to the fan. Before soldering, I put two small
pieces of shrink tube on each wire. Far enough away from the heat of the
mini torch I used for soldering - so that the tubes don't shrink from the heat.



Sorry, didn't have time to get a manicure.








Pulled the fan's plastic sheathing up and over as much as I could.
I'll just tape up the rest. Not too concerned with it. I'll put some
conductive grease inside there too, after I finish soldering the other end.




Lastly, the Woodsmith dropped off bed wood.

[VA72C10]

Looking good! Nice grain on that oak. Should look great!!!

[litew8]

Thanks! It's ash wood though (grains are very similar) with (golden?) oak stain and something added to darken it up a bit. I forget the name - and I think 5 coats of spar varnish. Unbelievably light wood! But is suppose to be a hard (tough) wood. I had to put it aside and cover it for the time being.

[VA72C10]

oops...that's the cabinet guy in me that never sees ash...it's always oak, hickory, cherry, maple, or alder.....and the occasional quarter sawn oak (I love the grain on that), teak, walnut, or bamboo...

[litew8]

If I ever need cabinets built in the back of my truck, I'll let you know va I had read or heard that even though oak is a popular choice, it tends to retain water.