The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-22-2011, 08:38 PM   #1
lil hoodlum
Registered User
 
lil hoodlum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,729
Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

I've got a little problem I could use some experienced opinions on.

My girlfriends truck, Chevy, the heater hose pipe fitting broke off at the intake. The threads are still in the intake manifold.

I know I should just take the intake manifold off and take it to a machine shop to have the thing fixed. However, I am just too broke at the moment and just wanting to try a down and dirty approach.

My first idea is to simply "sleeve" the broken fitting with some 1/2" OD copper tubing. I would either use J.B. Weld or another gasket maker than is waterproof (i.e. liquid resistance to antifreeze.)

My second idea is that if I am going to "sleeve" using the copper tubing, why not just extend it and connect it with a heater hose from the copper tubing to the heater core inlet.
Attached Images
     

Last edited by lil hoodlum; 12-22-2011 at 08:43 PM. Reason: wrong word
lil hoodlum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:42 PM   #2
lil hoodlum
Registered User
 
lil hoodlum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,729
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

My first idea using a copper tubing to "sleeve" the broken fitting back together.

J.B. Weld.

Other Gasket Sealant made by VersaChem, Type 1

Keith
Attached Images
   
lil hoodlum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:51 PM   #3
lil hoodlum
Registered User
 
lil hoodlum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,729
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Second idea.

Using a legnth of copper tubing, J. B.welded or gasket sealant afixed to intake manifold. Attach heater hose to heater core and copper tubing.

I was considering Soldering the copper tubing to the broken fitting/ intake manifold.

I'm not sure that is a good idea because of the contamination of the old pipe fitting. Does that sound correct, that both pieces should be free of contaminets in order to make a leak proof seal?

Thank you for your time and consideration!

Keith
Attached Images
   
lil hoodlum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:52 PM   #4
doubleb's69
Registered User
 
doubleb's69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 1,241
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Man that sucks. I've heard that the TBI engines are notorious for this. Those quick connects are just another "lets hurry up and get them down the assembly line" issue from GM. Your JB Weld trick might work but you will need a good clean area to work with. When you are able to fix it correclty I'd recomend putting a pipe nipple in there and running rubber hose with the old fashioned hose clamp.
__________________
Bud
doubleb's69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:55 PM   #5
doubleb's69
Registered User
 
doubleb's69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 1,241
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Plug the hole on the intake and spray real good with carb cleaner. Antifreeze is a lubricant so the fitting needs to be free of it as you stated above.
__________________
Bud
doubleb's69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #6
lil hoodlum
Registered User
 
lil hoodlum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,729
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleb's69 View Post
Man that sucks. I've heard that the TBI engines are notorious for this. Those quick connects are just another "lets hurry up and get them down the assembly line" issue from GM. Your JB Weld trick might work but you will need a good clean area to work with. When you are able to fix it correclty I'd recomend putting a pipe nipple in there and running rubber hose with the old fashioned hose clamp.
For sure, when I can get it properly fixed, I will just use the pipe nipple in the intake manifold.

Thank you for your input!

Keith
lil hoodlum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #7
dadsworktruck
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: blacksburg,s.c.
Posts: 155
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

those pot metal fitting are bad to do that, get you the 9.00 replacment fitting at the chevy place, you need to get that old stuff out and fix it correctly, no jb weld stuff only asking for problems,,,i took a dremel tool and slowly opened it up till the 1/2 pipe tap would start then i just retaped the hole, took a while but it worked for me, good luck
dadsworktruck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:03 PM   #8
mcbassin
Still Learning
 
mcbassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 10,108
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.

If that doesn't work you can stuff a small rag inside the fitting then cut through the fitting with a die grinder on both sides being careful not to get shaving inside the manifold (that's what the rag is for). Be careful not to cut throught the threads. Then just break the fitting in two pieces and unscrew what's left.
I have done a ton of these kind of repairs. If you have time to wait I will send you an ez out.

You don't need to take the manifold off to get that thing out. Or take it to a machine shop.

Use one of these once you get it out.
mcbassin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:08 PM   #9
Josh
He's got mean nasty FANGS!
 
Josh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 6,512
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

I've had good luck using Pipe ez outs before. I've also had to use a hacksaw blade and a punch to chip it out then retap it with a 1/2" pipe tap...
__________________
2004 K2500 Burb
1999 C3500
1985 Cutlass Supreme
1969 C-10
1967 C-10 Panel
josh@67-72chevytrucks.com
Josh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:12 PM   #10
lil hoodlum
Registered User
 
lil hoodlum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,729
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbassin View Post
Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.

If that doesn't work you can stuff a small rag inside the fitting then cut through the fitting with a die grinder on both sides being careful not to get shaving inside the manifold (that's what the rag is for). Be careful not to cut throught the threads. Then just break the fitting in two pieces and unscrew what's left.
I have done a ton of these kind of repairs. If you have time to wait I will send you an ez out.

You don't need to take the manifold off to get that thing out. Or take it to a machine shop.

Use one of these once you get it out.
Thank you for the advice and the offer. I will try to use an ez out. I was just hoping I could do this on the cheap and easy! Ain't I a great boyfriend or what? J/K you don't have to respond to that last one!

Keith
lil hoodlum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:22 PM   #11
mcbassin
Still Learning
 
mcbassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 10,108
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Keith,
Seriously, you can handle this. Pipe ez-out like Josh said is a good choice. That fitting is made out of a cast metal probably cast aluminum. It should come out pretty easy with a little heat applied. If you have a huge srewdriver or chisel that you can wedge in there and try turning, it might come right out? Update here when you get it out. Please don't hesitate to ask for my help. BTW, it sounds like you have your GF covered

Last edited by mcbassin; 12-22-2011 at 09:41 PM.
mcbassin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:24 PM   #12
hugger6933
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marianna Arkansas
Posts: 7,279
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

I have had this happen to me at least ten times as most trucks from 87 to 98 had this problem. My best advise is to try the E_Zout and then retap 1/2 pipe thread. That way you had planned would probably leak,[I know it would if I were to try it]and I 'm not to sure about soldering to dissimilar metals. The pipe end that is broken off is rotten , you mat want to try a cape point chisel and tap around on that thing I have tried that with a great deal of success. That fitting as I have said is rotten and brittle it may fall apart with just a littlee help. You want to do this on the cheap you can buy that nipple at the parts store or hardware store for just a couple of bucks or less. Good luck
hugger6933 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:36 PM   #13
Fldawg
Registered User
 
Fldawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lynn Haven Florida
Posts: 1,019
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

The E-Z OUT is the best way and help line at parts store makes the same fitting to screw back in
Fldawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 10:16 PM   #14
YBNORML
Registered User
 
YBNORML's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 3,850
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Haha, I just did this repair on my 98 this weekend.

I used a square style e-z out, the bottom portion came out with a little work. Just take your time. Make sure you pound the e-z out in squarely. The new nipple I bought from NAPA was only $14.00. It has also been redesigned for better function. It is also made out of better material.
__________________
---------------------------------------------------------------
Jason.

68’ GMC shortbox
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=794201

72' 2WD Blazer
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=425385

67' LongBox C-10
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=691845

InstaGram ybnorml67
YBNORML is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 10:52 PM   #15
hjewell2
Registered User
 
hjewell2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: mich
Posts: 655
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.
Yep thats the ticket right there
hjewell2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 11:16 PM   #16
OhOneWS6
Registered User
 
OhOneWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 764
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

That is a very common issue on those. Get you a jig saw blade for metal and a pair of vise grips and just saw a slot in the pot metal fitting. You can saw two slots if you want across form each other. Lightly tap it with a screw driver after you cut the slots and it will fall apart. Done it many times. No need to re tap. Just don't cut too deep. All you need to cut is the pot metal fitting. You do not need to cut all the way through the threads. Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes.

The replacement fittings from the auto parts are steel and not pot metal. You will not have the same issue with the replacement.

If you want to spend money you can buy an air saw instead of using a jig saw blade with vise grips for a handle.
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-sp...saw-91753.html

Last edited by OhOneWS6; 12-22-2011 at 11:25 PM.
OhOneWS6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 11:28 PM   #17
BMERDOC
Registered User
 
BMERDOC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

My vote is with OhOneWS6, use a hack saw blade to cut two slits 180* from each other. Use a punch, chisel or a screwdriver to knock the two halves loose from the threads.
__________________
Nick Carter
1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside
Project Cheap Thrills!
2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments
Easiest Alignment Ever!
BMERDOC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 12:18 AM   #18
dfwright
Registered User
 
dfwright's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 1,374
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Wow... I still have the original on my Suburban. I think I'll go pull it off and replace it before I end up in the same boat.
__________________
1972 C10 LWB, 350/350

Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017
dfwright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 12:26 AM   #19
Maxxd07
Registered User
 
Maxxd07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: ND
Posts: 520
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Anybody that works on these for a living has a special tool that removes the broken piece with ease. Maybe you have a friend or a old classmate or someone you know that is a mechanic or works at the local chevy garage that could loan you the tool? It has some strait groves in it that are sharp and tapered. You beat it in with a hammer like an easy out but it works 10 times better. The replacements are better but I still consider it a serviceable item, like when the coolant is changed replace it. Keeps the head pains at ease.
__________________
Name: Les
----------------------
Couple 80s
Couple 70s
One 68
Maxxd07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 01:20 AM   #20
mr48chev
Registered User
 
mr48chev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toppenish, WA
Posts: 15,632
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh View Post
I've also had to use a hacksaw blade and a punch to chip it out then retap it with a 1/2" pipe tap...
I've done that on several. Take a hacksaw blade and cut the fitting in several places until you just get to the threads but don't cut into the threads if at all possible. Then take the punch and knock out a section and fold the next section in a bit and move to the next one and move it a bit an the last one then use a pair of plyers to unscrew that part out of the manifold. I did it a bunch of times on broken risers on wheel lines when I worked on a dairy farm.
mr48chev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 01:40 AM   #21
Coley
Registered User
 
Coley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria, B.C
Posts: 3,794
Smile Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

....promise me that you won't try to repair this with JB weld.
I agree with the guys here with the take your time and do it right approach. You shouldn't have to remove the manifold or anything along that lines.
Plug the hole, soak it with the right lubricant, tap it a few times, heat it up, spray it again, tap it a few times...leave it overnight.
Get the right EZ-out and a cup of coffee...take your time, nice and slow a bit at time.
You'll be done and in the clear before you know it.
Good Luck
Coley
__________________
....for some men, there is experience, skill and effort....for the others...there is visa and UPS LOL
1966 Chevy 1/2 ton (Florida- Red/white)
1972 Chevy 1/2 ton (California- Blue/white)
2005 Chevy Silverado HD2500/Duramax
2000 Dodge Ram 1500
Coley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 01:41 AM   #22
baja
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 9
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

They make a tool for removing that. most auto stores have it.
baja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 01:48 AM   #23
69C-owner
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Apison Tn
Posts: 490
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

Coley hit the nail on the head
Posted via Mobile Device
__________________
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=43855069 LWB Fleet
1994 Buick Roadmaster
1994 GMC Sonoma
69C-owner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 05:46 AM   #24
cdowns
Senior Member
 
cdowns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

something worth doing is worth doing well
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane

MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF

DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK

TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY
cdowns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 05:51 AM   #25
stsalvage
Scrapper 1
 
stsalvage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Riverside Calif
Posts: 1,649
Smile Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

thats why i hate them new chevy engines there too bridal.I know the 305 and the 350 use the same intake manifold best off is to find one and get new gaskets and get on down the road. I take it you don't Run distill water in your engine. Alum intakes and other parts that come into contact with the water in your engine dose not like that tap water to many minerals.Loves to eat any thing Alum brass or copper.And if you live back in the cold states your copper and alum really hate it.
stsalvage is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
heater core pipe fitting, intake manifold repair, shade tree mechanics


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com