Leaf Spring Question

[dujobu]

I'm pulling the bushings from my leaf springs so I can powdercoat them and put new ones in, but I'm having a heck of a time getting them out.

My question is: is the outer metal sleeve supposed to come out with the rubber bushing and inner sleeve? One of them slid out because it was soaked in oil. The entire unit came out, outer sleeve and all. But all the others have NO intention of coming out. Wasn't sure if I should pry open the end of the leaf spring to break the outer sleeve loose, or just leave it in there and dig/burn out the bushing. Anyone know?

[Ole Beater]

When i put polyurethane bushings on mine they didnt come with outer sleeves. Ive seen people burn the the old ones out. I used a drill and drilled out as much of the rubber as i could and then pried them out with a hammer and screw driver. Ive seen some cool ideas on youtube to get them out also using some allthread, different sizes of pipe and washers/bushings.

[Surfdriver]

The info I read online said the outer sleves need to come out, but often do not come out with the bushing. I did mine for the first time yesterday. I drilled the bushings and tried beating them out. It worked with one. The rest I burned the bushings out. I had to use a sawzall on all the outer sleves. The blade fit between the split in the roll of the spring, and I was able to saw most of the way with out making contact with spring. Then I used a punch and hammer to tear the rest of the sleve apart, and roll the sleve to a smaller diameter and push it out. It took me just over an hour to do the back springs.

I also saw a post where you pry the end of the spring open with a chisel or screw driver so the outer sleve will come out. That did not work for me.

[dujobu]

Originally Posted by Surfdriver

The info I read online said the outer sleves need to come out, but often do not come out with the bushing. I did mine for the first time yesterday. I drilled the bushings and tried beating them out. It worked with one. The rest I burned the bushings out. I had to use a sawzall on all the outer sleves. The blade fit between the split in the roll of the spring, and I was able to saw most of the way with out making contact with spring. Then I used a punch and hammer to tear the rest of the sleve apart, and roll the sleve to a smaller diameter and push it out. It took me just over an hour to do the back springs.

I also saw a post where you pry the end of the spring open with a chisel or screw driver so the outer sleve will come out. That did not work for me.

Did you already put new ones in? If so, did they come with new outer sleeves?

[Surfdriver]

I have not installed my bushings yet. The new rubber bushings I've seen online and in catalogs were already in the outer sleave. I'm going poly on mine. From what I read, the poly goes in with no sleave. I did a test fit today, and the poly bushings fit into the spring nice and tight with no outer sleave.

[dujobu]

What's the advantage of poly over rubber? What brand did you get?

Originally Posted by Surfdriver

I have not installed my bushings yet. The new rubber bushings I've seen online and in catalogs were already in the outer sleave. I'm going poly on mine. From what I read, the poly goes in with no sleave. I did a test fit today, and the poly bushings fit into the spring nice and tight with no outer sleave.

[47thriftmaster]

I did mine last weekend, For all springs, I sprayed them with penetrating oil for a few days to let it soak in. Then for the rear springs and front loop of the front springs, I used a 1" socket to knock the bushings and sleeve out at the same time. It worked pretty good and saved me the time of doing the bushings then the sleeve. For the rear of the front I used a smaller socket. Both sockets were impact sockets, so no damage to them either. I used black Poly bushings also, they do not require a sleeve, they are more sturdy and last longer then rubber bushings.

[Surfdriver]

I bought the energy suspension poly bushings. I chose them for the same reasons 47thriftmaster stated, and I have heard they perform better for suspension. I'll find out for myself soon.

[71RestoRod]

I ordered one of these bushing cutters last summer when I ran into a bunch of stubborn shackle bushings on my old F*rd. You could probably find a similar tool for less, but this one is nice, and after the full 10 rounds it still looks new. Sure made a tough job a hell of a lot easier.



Snap-on Catalog


Btw, those bushings should have an interference fit. If the new one still spins freely in the hole, it's a problem and poly might be the way to go.

[Blazed72]

I use a hole saw a little bit smaller than the metal sleeve. Cuts right through the rubber. Then a sawzall the sleeve and use a punch to knock it out. I can do one spring in about 5 minutes.

[no moa]

I did mine yesterday on my 2wd rears, I made a bolt tool to press out the bushing and rubber, then I used an air hammer with bushing cutter to get the sleeve out. Wasn't easy but it worked. Used a socket and press to put the new ones in. I went with napa stock rubber instead of poly.
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[dujobu]

Thanks for all the info. It took me 45+ minutes to get one of the rubber bushings out (not even the shell) so i took them to my buddy's aut shop and they used an air chisel and a press to get them out. Took them one hour to do all the rest.

[47thriftmaster]

That's a very good alternative and a lot easier for you.

Originally Posted by dujobu

Thanks for all the info. It took me 45+ minutes to get one of the rubber bushings out (not even the shell) so i took them to my buddy's aut shop and they used an air chisel and a press to get them out. Took them one hour to do all the rest.

[dujobu]

Yeah man. I'd like to be like some of you guys who learn to do all this stuff yourselves, but we just had our third child and I'm having a really difficult time being a dad, husband, business owner and restoring a 40 y/o truck all at the same time. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I'm having to enlist the help of friends who know more than I do about this stuff if I'm going to get it done.

Originally Posted by 47thriftmaster

That's a very good alternative and a lot easier for you.

[47thriftmaster]

Well you have to have your priorities, mine doesn't get worked on near as much as I would like due to work. Think of it this way, if your having friends work on it for you then you get to learn more and get to see it done right. Learning as you build takes patience and sometimes a lot of repeat work. Are you planning to powder coat the springs?

[dujobu]

A friend recommended I don't PC the springs because it will crack and flake when the springs bend. Is this true? If it is, I was going to just hit them with chassis black.

Originally Posted by 47thriftmaster

Well you have to have your priorities, mine doesn't get worked on near as much as I would like due to work. Think of it this way, if your having friends work on it for you then you get to learn more and get to see it done right. Learning as you build takes patience and sometimes a lot of repeat work. Are you planning to powder coat the springs?

[47thriftmaster]

Yup, not as flexible and the springs rub, which causes the cracking and stuff. Not worth powder coating in my opinion. I just hit mine with some paint and primer, it's cheap and should hold up good.

Originally Posted by dujobu

A friend recommended I don't PC the springs because it will crack and flake when the springs bend. Is this true? If it is, I was going to just hit them with chassis black.

[dujobu]

Are the leaf springs each supposed to have two shackles holding it together (one on each end), or just one? Mine only have one a piece.

[no moa]

The heavy Duty springs had 2, the lighter duty 71-72 had the single.

I have both sets.
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