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09-02-2003, 09:50 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 137
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72 front end problems
I posted this ont the suspension board, but I need help fast, and there are allot more of you on this board...Thanks.
I tore down the front end of my 72 this weekend, got everything cleaned and painted, and started putting in the new ball joints, and bushings last night... The bushing caps on one of the upper arms, and one of the lowers were not threading real easy, so I kind of forced them with a pipe... I know...what a dumb a@@!!! My only excuse, is I have never done the bushings before, and I thought without really thinking, that the outside threads on the cups were just knurled, or machined in a way that would make them tight against the A-Arm, when you torqued them on the shaft?????? Anyway, I think I have 1 upper A-ARM that is screwed up. When I tighten the cups, I can move the shaft right until I give it the last turn to tight. Then the shaft will not move without a lot of force (18" bar) The other one I can hold the shaft, and swing the ARM, it is tight, but moves freely. Have I screwed up that arm, or what? I also noticed that if I take off one cup, with the other cup tight, the shaft is not centered in the other end, and when you turn it , it moves off center??? Also, How tight should the shafts be when done correctly? Flame me if you will..but help me if you can... 
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 72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate |
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09-02-2003, 03:43 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 137
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ttt
At least call me an idiot, or something, I'm this close to getting the front end done...Do I need to find a new Upper Control Arm...Do they sell them new or is used the only way to get one?? Thanks, Erik
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72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate |
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09-02-2003, 03:48 PM
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#3 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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With the center bars installed and the bushings tight you shouldn't be able to turn the center bar by hand. It should be that tight. When you put them on the cross-member it should allow you to pivot the upper control arm up, and it should stay wherever you put it.
Sounds like your control arms were stripped out with the last application. Has your front-end ever been worked on? The bushings should simply thread right in, get tight about 1/2 way in, and force you to turn them with a wrench until the bottom out. Then you have to torque them to spec. Oh and on centering the bar. Thread one bushing all the way in, and then bottom out the center bar inside that bushing in the control arm. Then put the other bushing on, screw it down against the control arm, and then back the center bar off until it reaches the center. You might have to split the difference, so make sure you use the same centering on both sides.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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09-02-2003, 05:03 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 137
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Thanks - Cobalt...
The one was just so much tighter than the other, I figured it must have a problem... I did take the shaft out, and was able to torque the cups to 100 Ft/lbs...without them stripping. So I think I may be alright.
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72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate |
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