New-to-me '71 K5 Jimmeh

[Lapper]

Hi Folks,

I've lurked here long enough, but now I have something to post about. I picked up a '71 Jimmy yesterday. I traded my dirt bike and some cash for it.

Here are the pics from the sellers Flickr page.

For the short term, I just want it to pass Aircare (provincial emissions inspection) and fix what smells like a gas leak and a weak defroster. I'm just going to drop it off at a reputable mechanic for these items (Granville and Avery in Vancouver, BC), just to get it insurable the fastest. For the medium term, I would like to keep it as a driving resto, focusing on fixing the rust before it gets worse. Eventually I would like to bring it back to the stock colour (gold?) with some minor performance enhancements.

This vehicle has been restored previously, a long time ago, but could use a good going over again.

The engine and drive train are fantastic and it starts up immediately. The owner drove it out of the driveway through a snowbank with no difficulty, so the 4x4 is fine.

It is an automatic, which will take some getting used to. It does drive like a '71 truck though, hehe. I think a new steering box with a more pleasing ratio will help in that regard.

All in all, I'm very pleased with my purchase. This site is a wealth of knowledge and has helped me a great deal with my other truck ('72 K20).

[rsavage]

Welcome to the board and congrats on your purchase. Keep us posted on your changes.

[LockDoc]

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Looks like a heck of a good base to start with. I think a "keep it mobile" fix up is the best way to go. That way you don't lose interest and just leave it set...

Welcome to the board.

LockDoc

[pumpkin]

If you need help I'm close, and air care certified. I have three and a half 72 Blazers, and have been into these trucks for quite some time.

[bouncytruck]

Congrats and welcome to the "club". Summer time with the top off in the Pacific NW is the best!

[Lapper]

Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to some topless action this summer. (Er, ah, let me try that again!)

Actually Pumpkin, I do have a question for you. What carb and intake are you running on the vehicles that passed Aircare?

The reason I ask is that after looking up my vehicle's history, it has failed Aircare several times and has never passed. It was registered out in Hope, so it isn't required. Gerry (at Granville and Avery) suggested that the nasty old AFB (with unknown intake) might be an issue. He's going to try a couple of tune-up items (plugs, spark) first and put it on the scope and see if that fixes the problem.

Hey I wonder if that was your orange blazer at Langley Show n' Shine a couple years ago? I think I have a picture of it somewhere.

Edit: It was a Jimmy, not a Blazer. My bad. Here is the image anyway.

[pumpkin]

Two of the Blazers have Q jets, my wheeling daily is in the middle of a complete O/H and getting TBI fuel injection. If you send me your regi number I can take a look at your readings and give you an idea. The shop I work at, I make just about anything pass air care. We have a large base of customers with Hot Rods, and for them to get collector plates they have to pass. Some can be quite fun to get through.

[Lapper]

Thank you very much for that info, I really appreciate it. If the AFB carb is a sticking point, then I will suggest the Qj. Hopefully it works well without having to change the existing intake manifold (or the current carb), but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

You're gonna laugh at this. I just talked to my mechanic. The plugs are ancient with the electrodes burned down to the nub. The PCV system has been disabled by plugging it up, possibly resulting in the internal pressure pushing oil through the poorly sealed valve covers, smoking and wafting through the cab. That was the gassy smell that I noticed. The plug wire ends are cracked and can be seen arcing. So, no wonder it hasn't passed Aircare! It is bizarre that anyone would even try without addressing these basic issues. I don't have my reggie with me, otherwise I would happily send over the info.

Initially, he thought that we were smelling blow-by, but the compression is 160 all the way around, so at least the the internals are ok anyway.

The previous owner only owned this thing for a year or so, and probably wasn't aware of the detailed list of problems. I don't think he was deliberately withholding info from me or anything like that. The previous Aircare attempts were back in '09, prior to his ownership.

What shop do you work at? I still have to get my '72 K20 back on the road as well, hopefully this summer. The K20 is another story altogether...

[pumpkin]

Prairie Service in PoCo

[Lapper]

Thanks. Any recommendations as far as body shops (in the Greater Vancouver, BC area)? The rusty rear quarters and paint has to be redone. I'm thinking sooner rather than later.

I found a couple of random net reviews that seemed to favour Gordrons, B&M Autocraft and Kirmac but would prefer an opinion from members of this site.

[72gmcshorty]

If you are ready to pay out your bum you could go to any of those guys....Does anyone at Kirmac actually know how to weld sheetmetal? Your best bang for the buck is to find someone who does this work on the side or out of his garage...just like my guy does...

[DanSan c 10]

Welcome to the forum from San Diego

[Lapper]

Thanks for the welcomes.

72G, I would actually prefer to find a guy who does exactly what you describe. I actually have two vehicles that I have to fix. My Jimmy and my 72 K20 longbox. Heck, maybe even my '67 Fairlane GT/A if it all works out. Jimmy has priority of course. If you could see your way to PM me his info, or if I could send you mine, then I would be very grateful! I thought about trying to do it myself, but I only have a carport, and it is quite cold out...

In any case, I would be interested in the box sheet metal that you PMed me as well. I PMed you my phone number.

[72gmcshorty]

There is a Canada section on this website. You could ask for bodyman recommendations there. Lots of guys here in the lower mainland. They might come up with some options for you. Unfortunately, my guy is moving in the spring and i believe my project will be his last.

[Lapper]

OK great, thanks for the tip. I posted my question there.

[dubds10]

You could also register your truck as Territory Z and not have to run it through Aircare.

And a small body man shop out of a house is your way to go. Lots of good guys out there who work from home as it's just more cost effective. I don't trust most bodyshops out there. The gfs 2010 JK needs a new fender, and new rocker panels welded in etc after a hit and run accident and I'd prefer to bring the Jeep to our shop to do the work but I have to get the ok from ICBC for a payout. Hopefully, otherwise I'll be sure the 'other' shop does it right or keep making them fix it right lol

The PO of your blazer called me one day looking for a gas tank to get it running right, not sure if he fixed the issues to get it running consistantly. But I'd check the tank as well, for any gas leaks if you still smell gas. Otherwise, a good tune-up is probably all you really need in that thing to pass aircare. My '72 passed with flying colours

Nate

[Lapper]

Oh, you knew the PO? I guess that practically makes you family, hehe. Thanks for the info on the tank. I'll keep an eye and a nose on it. I don't hold anything against the PO or anything, as he was pretty open about the defects that he knew about.

I knew there would be some issues getting 'er through Aircare, as it has never been through before. Who would put it through if they didn't have to?

I got a call from my mechanic that they did get it through Aircare. I did the jump of joy! They were pretty happy too. There is about $400 in parts (including a new brake booster) and maybe as much in labour so far. It runs a whole lot better too. The heater switch is gone so they are just waiting for that to come in. The motor mounts are collapsed and there is a leak in the trans. When I went to buy it we had to put 3L of trans fluid in just to get it going. Hopefully the trans fix won't cost too much.

I'm on the fence about hiring a body man vs trying to fix it myself. The inner torque box support is partially dissolved, so that might not be a bad place to start. I'm thinking that the welds don't have to look perfect, since it is out of sight. If I do go ahead and hire someone, would you be able to forward me your guys' info?

I just learned that KMS Tools in Coquitlam (by Ikea) will rent a paint booth for about $200 per day, gun rental and paint are extra, so I might try that and save some cash as well. Actually, I'm pretty excited about that. I fixed and painted the door on my '99 Ranger, and it turned out ok...eventually. I was working with a 1gal compressor and no regulator, hehe. A learning experience for sure.

[Lapper]

Oops. I wish I could edit the title to say K1500 instead...

[dubds10]

It's not a K15 though, it's a K5 so you have the title right. When buying parts, look down south. Prices are way cheaper compared to up here, even at cost going through Lordco things are twice are much $ as buying down south lol Boarder tax is nothing when you're saving double the cost, but look around and do you research on everything first. Sometimes you'll get some good deals up here for misc. stuff if you plan on doing the work yourself, mechanical, body etc. Any old chevy is easy to work on for the most part, very simple vehicles as you'd know with your K20. How's that going? You got any pics/build of that?

Nate

[Lapper]

Ok, thanks Nate.

I'm actually looking forward to having some stuff shipped to Point Roberts. My nephew uses TSB Shipping, so I'm going to give them a try.

The K20 is on the back burner for the time being. I've replaced the front axle ujoints (well, had them replaced). I was able to take the axles out, but couldn't figure out how to get the ujoints out. So I took them into a shop to have them replaced with new ones. I asked for greasable ones. A little less strong, but more reliable in the long run.

Since I had the rotors off I opted for new ones as well as new calipers and bearings. When it comes to brakes, I just don't mess around. I took the dust covers over to Langley U-Blast and blasted them clean and painted them. These are all minor things but they are time consuming is rewarding to do. That was actually last summer. I haven't touched a thing since it started to get cold out as I only have a carport.

I like working on these old Chevs for sure. Pretty much everything is new to me, but now that I've done a couple of things, I can do them again in half the time.

I have a set of rear springs to swap in as well (broken leaf). I want to shine them up a bit. Grind away the scale and hit it with POR15? I guess I'll just do that unless you (or anyone else) has a better way.

I don't have any pics of the K20 though. You guys would probably kick me out if you saw what it looked like right now, hehe. Once it is properly underway I'll create a build thread for it.

I have several vehicles and I need to sell all of them except the Jimmy. I want to see if I can come out ahead a little bit though. My plans:
1. Sell my '99 Ranger.
2. Put some money into the Jimmy to fix outstanding issues, including paint and interior fabric. This Jimmy is a keeper. I might give it to one of my sons when they grow up (currently 3 and 4), but it will be in the family forever.
3. Work on K20 and invest some time and funds to get it back to stock and then sell it.
4. Lastly, work on and sell my '67 Fairlane GT/A. The drivetrain in the Fairlane is phenomenal. A little too good, actually. It was set up for racing, but it is only a 390 (non-orig), so it doesn't really make sense to try to race it. A done up 460 will smoke a done up 390. The big problem with the Fairlane is the amount of bondo in the rear quarters and door, as well as some floor holes. The plan is to repair the panels with metal and paint it in the original sky blue colour. It isn't my favourite colour, but what can you do. The brakes are absolutely shot, and perhaps the upper a arms. The old fords didn't have greasable uppers, so they wear out and can't be aligned.

Why did I buy the Fairlane? I couldn't afford a mustang back then (and still can't). I had a friend who had a '67 back in the day and it was fun to cruise in it. Also, I couldn't get a loan, so I paid monthly for it from an acquaintance. Ford parts prices are ridiculous though. I don't really see myself buying another (except for a mid-70s crewcab).

[dubds10]

I know what you mean about working outside..most of my vehicle work ended last Oct or so, and then the rains just took over so nothing has gotten done since Nov I'd say. Now the sunny is finally out, so I'm gonna get in the bobcat this weekend and pull a few vehicles apart and clean up the yard hopefully.

POR15 is great stuff and if you're looking for durability it'll out last any paint out there. It'd do just that, seperate the leaf pack, grind/sand them down to bare steel and then coat them with POR15, put back together and you're set. A lot of people do their entire frames in POR15. I would if I was doing a ground up since I know it'd protect and last forever.

At least you're getting smart though...selling the Ranger haha Old Ford parts are pricey compared to Chevy parts. Pontiac is the most expensive and Dodge classic stuff is getting up there now. Lots of people don't realize how much parts are before they buy vehicles though and then the projects just sit there forever cause they can't afford to fix it. At least with the Chevy stuff, it's plentiful and cheap. If you need any small stuff, I got various items sitting around the house/yard still. Small stuff I just keep in case somebody else needs it...FREE of course lol Unless it's a rare item. Only parts I want $ for are rare things or body panels, but I'm dry of anything good now. Haven't bought one of these truck since last fall now, and have no projects underway. I'd love to get another blazer, but right now it's just buy, sell, part vehicles out vs project time.

If you ever need anything just let me know. Lots of us Classic Chevy guys around the lower mainland.

Nate