89 resto-mod crew cab short bed

[STOCKISH]

Nice work man, keep at it.

[NITRO1977]

Old engine/ tranny are out...sold the engine. I have a buyer for the trans. Its not looking good for the crossmember build tomorrow. I have paying jobs to do, and they take priority. I am going to box the front of the frame down to the shackles before I install the crossmember.

[NITRO1977]

I guess its baby steps this week. I did manage to get the front crossmember, and the old engine mounts out. I got the frame template made, and I am pretty sure I have the layout for my engine crossmember made. There's a shot in here of the shackle mounts I built.

[yjheep]

Love the shackle mounts, Nice work! I almost did that myself. I had a bunch of off fall from dom still around in the floor. figured I already had the gm mounts I would use them since I had to build the front hangers too. I see you made your own spring plates as well. Props to all the guys "building" there trucks not buying them!
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[NITRO1977]

Frame plates are cut and fitted. Steering box sleeves are welded to frame. I cleaned up the inside of the frame where it will be boxed, and painted it. As soon as its dry I will weld in the plates. Hopefully I can get my crossmembers in after that.

[yjheep]

What is that white stuff? Is that a weldable primer ?
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[NITRO1977]

No, it isn't weld through primer. Its just regular primer. I will prep the weld surfaces, and I know some of it will burn off, but I figured it was better than not putting anything in there. When the frame is all done I plan on sticking a 360 degree nozzle in to coat it.

[yjheep]

I wanted to box my frame, but I live in the rust belt and I'm plan on driving this truck for the next 40+ years. Kind of scares me to box it. Been kicking around the idea of just plating the face of the frame...
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[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on the fab work. I thought about boxing my frame, but don't really need it on a low power rig. LOL on our puller we're going to build, it'll be boxed for sure.

[flurryoftexas]

im doing a build along. i am at the same point you are.. what transfer are you going to run.

[NITRO1977]

I'm not sure what transfer I am going to run yet. I'd like to have a 205.

[NITRO1977]

After a busy weekend working on the pull truck I didn't have any time to weld in my frame plates. I am officially setting aside tomorrow to do that. After some consideration I have decided not to sandblast the frame. It isn't as bad as the pictures show. It does have some pretty heavy surface rust, but no deep pitting and no flaking. I bought a new 6" heavy duty cup brush that I will use to clean the frame.


My goals for tomorrow are

1. weld in plates
2. build engine crossmember
3. paint the frame (firewall forward)

1, and 2 should be a breeze. 3........not sure yet . I have got to kick it in on this old girl if I am going to have it done by truck pulling season.


The pull truck isn't mine, but its my buddies. Its a 2007 gmc pro stock diesel.
If anyone wants to check it out there are links to the pull videos on my blog.
http://nitro-offroad.blogspot.com/
Link to high voltage pulling http://highvoltagetruckpulling.blogspot.com/

[NITRO1977]

Frame plates are welded in. I mocked up the dodge crossmember and tacked it in place. I'm thinking about using it versus a custom built one for a couple of reasons. First, it is available. Second, I think it will give me more clearance in relation to the diff housing. I had bought a 2wd steering box that was in better shape than my other one from a buddy of mine a while back. I took the time today to install the ported end cap, and I also drilled and tapped for the other line. I can now install hydro assist with minimal work.

[NITRO1977]

I worked on the tie rod setup a little. I had to ream the holes in the steering arms to accept tie rods. I also had to shorten both the draglink and the tie rod which needed rethreading of course. Steering is mocked up. I say mocked up because I still need a few new ends, and jam nuts. I picked up a shop crane today, and was able to set the motor in place for mock-up. My first attempt proved to be too close to the firewall. After looking a little closer I noticed the offset in the mounts on the engine. I swapped them left for right, and whamo it was perfect. Now I can pull it back out and finish welding the crossmember.

[STOCKISH]

If it'll do what you need it to do I think using the Cummins factory crossmember is a great idea. No need to build alot of stuff if you dont need to, right!

[84chevyguyid]

Nice build! I am collecting parts for the same build, couldnt find a good 4x4 so I bought a 2 wd and will convert it. I havent had any luck finding a used 78-9 ford front dana 60 so I may just buy a new setup, by the time you get a used one and swap gears and bearings, seals, ect might be just as well off. Will be following your project!

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking good! Do you plan to add any other braces to the dodge cross member in case the welds crack over time?

[NITRO1977]

Originally Posted by 84chevyguyid

Nice build! I am collecting parts for the same build, couldnt find a good 4x4 so I bought a 2 wd and will convert it. I havent had any luck finding a used 78-9 ford front dana 60 so I may just buy a new setup, by the time you get a used one and swap gears and bearings, seals, ect might be just as well off. Will be following your project!

Ahh the coveted 78-79 hp60.....they are super hard to find. I bought mine as a pile of parts, and completely rebuilt it.

[NITRO1977]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Looking good! Do you plan to add any other braces to the dodge cross member in case the welds crack over time?

I don't plan on it, but I am going to put a couple more crossmembers in the frame to help eliminate frame flex. When I'm done there shouldn't be enough flex to allow cracking. I'm thinking pretty hard about boxing all the way to the back of the cab.

I have a 2wd nv4500 in my shop that I sold to a buddy, but it doesn't look like he is going to use it now so I might buy it back. I will need a dodge bellhousing, input shaft, and bearing retainer. I will most likely go with a divorced setup to keep cost down.

No progress to report... I have a cj in the shop for a regear, and Ox lockers. Once that is out I might have a little time to get back on the truck. Thanks again for all the comments...Its good motivation to finish this project. Then I can find another......I'm already thinking about a 2 1/2 ton work truck

[yjheep]

Nitro, I'm picking up a divorced ford case next week, I'm only using the 1410 yokes off it. If you need one I would make you a hell of a deal. I know yokes are expensive.
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[84chevyguyid]

So far I have found a bare housing, 78-9 dana 60. If I had a chevy dana 60, how many parts, besides the ring and pinion, will swap over to the ford axle? About how much did you get into your axle putting it back together? Instead of welding it in, would it work better to put flanges on it and bolt it in?

[NITRO1977]

Originally Posted by 84chevyguyid

So far I have found a bare housing, 78-9 dana 60. If I had a chevy dana 60, how many parts, besides the ring and pinion, will swap over to the ford axle? About how much did you get into your axle putting it back together? Instead of welding it in, would it work better to put flanges on it and bolt it in?

The carrier will swap, everything from the knuckles out will swap if you use all of it, I can't remember if the inners will. I bought a bunch of nos parts from a buddy so I don't have an accurate price for you to compare to. Are you asking about mounting the housing into the vehicle?

[84chevyguyid]

Oops, that last sentance wasnt very clear. I was reading about your dodge crossmember and it was concerning that. If you had flanges on the crossmember and bolted it in maybe cracking wouldnt be as much of an issue? I think I am going to pick up a passenger side drop t/case and forget the ford axle. It would be nice to have the front driveline on the driver side for better clearance for the exhaust pipe but not that big of a deal. What size tires are you planning on running? I was thinking about doing a 3 inch lift and maybe a 1 inch body lift as it might help in the trans/tcase clearance as this is a 2 wheel drive body. I want to run 35's but I dont know how much is needed to clear the fenders.

[Dieselwrencher]

A 4" suspension lift will get you the clearance you need for the cummins and 35's. The floor will be tight with a non high hump floor.

[NITRO1977]

I am going to cut out the factory hump in mine and put in a removable high hump. A bolt in crossmember would be nice, but I don't think it will be an issue with the boxing and extra welded crossmembers.