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09-16-2003, 02:45 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Shawnee, KS
Posts: 923
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Is this a common problem?
i think the trailing arm on my c20 is coming apart. there is a plate on the bottom of each arm. looks to be spot welded in place. one of them is actually peeling off from the front. are these plates factory or have they been added? i'm thinking about just plug welding back into place with my MIG.
Also, I have a part-time landscaping buisness and this beast is my mule. last weekend had her loaded down with sod and a 12' utility trailer w/ trees. the back end sagged so far that the panhard? mount on the axle crushed my new exhaust that exits behind the rear wheel. i'm probably should replace the 35 year old springs. anyone have suggestions on heavy duty springs or ways the exhaust should be routed over the axle? |
09-16-2003, 02:55 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A.
Posts: 15,320
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Wow, a C-20 is a heavy duty truck to begin with, you must have really loaded her up. :p You may just need to order a new pair of springs, they aren't all that expensive. You should replace the shocks as well if you haven't yet. I can't remember anything about the trailing arms, I'd go look except that I'm 6,000 miles from my truck right now.
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09-16-2003, 03:13 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Independence MO.
Posts: 7,702
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Yes, 3/4 ton's had a plate welded along the bottom of the trailing arm. You can just weld it back on.
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09-16-2003, 03:37 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Shawnee, KS
Posts: 923
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thanks.
I don't believe I have really been loading it down more than was originally designed to handle. I'm sure springs are bad. stock springs and shocks OK? is it worth replacing trailing arm bushings while i'm at it? |
09-16-2003, 03:55 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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You can have those plates reinforced with a little welding, but if you're up to it just rebuild the rear-end. Just support the axle, remove the shocks, remove the panhard bar, undo the bolts on the springs. Getting the bolts out of the frame and the trailing arms for the springs can be a pain. Also, the U-bolts have to be cut.
I got my trailing arm and panhard bar bushings from Energy Suspensions through Early Classic Enterprises, and I got all my new hardware from either the local fastener outlet (Tacoma Screw), or from LMC. I cleaned and painted the springs, panhardbar, trailing arms, and shock brackets, and put it all back together with some KYB shocks. Worked great.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
09-16-2003, 08:28 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
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If your trailing arms are spreading take them off and clean the crud and dirt out from between the halfs and reweld them back together, then using 3/16 steel restrap them every 12" to keep them from spreading again. TRW or MOOG 3/4 ton rear coil springs are progressive rate and will get stiffer the heavier you load it but ride pretty good empty. Reconditioned trailing arms are available through us, Springs from us or most good auto parts stores.
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Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times. |
09-16-2003, 11:14 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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And maybe some POR15 to keep them that way for a long time.
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09-16-2003, 11:28 PM | #8 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,608
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You could also dig up some factory overload''s to help on the panhard bar versus exhaust fight...
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