engine dies - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

hank · 09-26-2003, 08:58 AM

ok, i'm having a problem i can't quite figure out, so let's see if ya'll can help.

my engine dies, acts like it's out of gas from anywhere from 2 to 30 minutes, then starts back up again and runs just fine. it usually dies when i let up on the gas, like coming to a stop sign or making a turn.

i just rebuilt my carb to correct this problem, but, it's still happening.

i have a 350, a rochester carb and HEI.

the only other clue to this puzzle is that the problem started right after i installed HEI.

any help is appreciated.

/<eystroke · 09-26-2003, 10:17 AM

Just a couple of thoughts.

You may want to check that your rotor hasn't lost it's spring which
could cause it to die when you let off the throttle, due to not pulling
the weights back in. Other things to check would be your brake booster
leaking vacuum when you step on the brakes causing the motor to die.

I'm chasing a roaming idle and intermediate misfires at idle and I
think it is my distributor rotor spring not holding a constant timing.
I've rebuilt the carb, replaced all vacuum gromits and check valves,
changed out plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I finally noticed
that the rotor wasn't snapping back like it should.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 09-26-2003, 10:38 AM

I would suggest checking the module and pickup coil in your distributor. Both items can do what you are describing. The module can be removed without taking the distributor apart.
The pickup coil can be tested while it is in the distributor but cannot be replaced without dissassembling the distributor.

Starting with the module is the easiest to do and I believe some parts stores have the ability to test them. Testing the pickup coil can be done with an Ohm meter and it should read 750-800 ohms
across the two wires when taken out of the circuit.

Good luck!

Jim

tom hand · 09-26-2003, 11:54 AM

If the HEI is suspected the FIRST thing to check is the wires inside the cap. The advance mechanisms constantly flex these wires and can cause the wire to break inside the insulation with no visual clues that anything is wrong. Get out the VOM and check the wire while flexing them... should be close to 0 ohms. If you don't have a meter, might as well buy one if you plan to run an HEI

hank · 09-26-2003, 12:09 PM

yep, i'm testing the unit out when i get a break.

it's just got to be in the distributor. will let ya'll know.

hank · 09-26-2003, 04:43 PM

allright...fellas i owe you a beer(if you're old enough).

it was indeed a faulty ignition module. truck died, tested the module and it wasn't getting any power out to the coils.

well, at least my carb is all tuned up.

thanks again.

09-26-2003, 08:58 AM	#1
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	engine dies ok, i'm having a problem i can't quite figure out, so let's see if ya'll can help. my engine dies, acts like it's out of gas from anywhere from 2 to 30 minutes, then starts back up again and runs just fine. it usually dies when i let up on the gas, like coming to a stop sign or making a turn. i just rebuilt my carb to correct this problem, but, it's still happening. i have a 350, a rochester carb and HEI. the only other clue to this puzzle is that the problem started right after i installed HEI. any help is appreciated.

09-26-2003, 10:17 AM	#2
/<eystroke Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: North Texas Posts: 265	Just a couple of thoughts. You may want to check that your rotor hasn't lost it's spring which could cause it to die when you let off the throttle, due to not pulling the weights back in. Other things to check would be your brake booster leaking vacuum when you step on the brakes causing the motor to die. I'm chasing a roaming idle and intermediate misfires at idle and I think it is my distributor rotor spring not holding a constant timing. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced all vacuum gromits and check valves, changed out plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I finally noticed that the rotor wasn't snapping back like it should. __________________ '69 C/10 Short Wide 350/400/AC/Tilt/Tach

09-26-2003, 11:54 AM	#4
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	If the HEI is suspected the FIRST thing to check is the wires inside the cap. The advance mechanisms constantly flex these wires and can cause the wire to break inside the insulation with no visual clues that anything is wrong. Get out the VOM and check the wire while flexing them... should be close to 0 ohms. If you don't have a meter, might as well buy one if you plan to run an HEI __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

09-26-2003, 10:38 AM	#3
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	I would suggest checking the module and pickup coil in your distributor. Both items can do what you are describing. The module can be removed without taking the distributor apart. The pickup coil can be tested while it is in the distributor but cannot be replaced without dissassembling the distributor. Starting with the module is the easiest to do and I believe some parts stores have the ability to test them. Testing the pickup coil can be done with an Ohm meter and it should read 750-800 ohms across the two wires when taken out of the circuit. Good luck! Jim

09-26-2003, 12:09 PM	#5
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	yep, i'm testing the unit out when i get a break. it's just got to be in the distributor. will let ya'll know.

09-26-2003, 04:43 PM	#6
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	allright...fellas i owe you a beer(if you're old enough). it was indeed a faulty ignition module. truck died, tested the module and it wasn't getting any power out to the coils. well, at least my carb is all tuned up. thanks again.



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