1962 C10 Frame to 1978 front 1/2 ton suspension

[robber grin]

As the title implies I am interested in installing a 1978 1/2 ton Suburban front suspension clip to my 1962 C10.

Unless I misunderstood, I've recently read in another post on another board that there is a spacer required for the 62 frame to utilize the newer xmber due to a slight difference in widths???

I have seen detailed description on a 60's conversion and had been referring to it when I noticed a difference in the holes in the frame area (as pictured) where the cross member bolts up.

Are there specific issues for the 62 frame?

I measured with a tape measure an there does seem to be a slight difference in width... the 62 front end is already out and long gone so I measured bare frame rails.

Do I just jack it up into "the spot" and mark and drill / elongate the holes as required?

I'm waiting to hear from you guys that have been there before with the 62 C10 conversion.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!
Bob

[padresag]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=450021
ron

[robber grin]

Originally Posted by padresag

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=450021
ron

Thanks Ron - that's the one I was referring too when I wrote "I have seen detailed description on a 60's conversion...".

I have also read that a 1/4" shim is required for the 62 frame due to difference in width and that is my primary concern.

I can jack it up into the spot drill it out and tighten everything up but I want to get it right the first time without any more issues than necessary.

[padresag]

just ask mark. he is always on here and quite accommodating. he is the one who wrote the article
ron

[markeb01]

To the best of my knowledge, the width of the early 60-62 frame is identical to the later 63-87 frame, in the area where the front crossmember bolts on. If nothing is bent, shims should not be required. I've read where others have had issues with the frame rails being too far apart or too close together, but had I encountered this problem I would have just found a way to force the crossmember into position and bolt the rails up tight, which should keep everything correctly oriented.

The engine towers do need a 1” spacer as shown in the article. The later open “C” channel frame was made taller to compensate for the lack of boxing present on the early chassis.

Any other questions or concerns we're here to help.

[62 Bowtie]

well if it helps any I used a 78 truck front end crossmember in my 62 fit fine no welding been about 2 years, i do remember drilling a couple holes just cant remember which ones some line up then drilled the ones that didnt i think it was 1 on each side and had to bore one with a step bit

[chopper john]

i did this on my 60 . there is two holes on each side that match up. what i di was lined up those bolts left a little loose. put the floor jack under it and with the weight of the truck i tightened the two bolts per side. then you will have to redrill and oval out a total of five holes per side.when all said and done you will have a total of 14 bolts holding the hole x member in place. its easiest with no suspension on it. just x member.i never used any shims, it fit just fine

[robber grin]

Thanks for the input guys - it's reassuring to know I'm on track and not messing this up.

I got my front suspension torn down, cleaned, stripped, primed & painted the main crossmember itself.

Then afterwards jacked it into position marked the holes and as you said one hole lined up on each side and that's what I went off of to drill.

Drilled it out and was going to start bolting everything together,but discovered I will need to enlarge the holes for the side bolts since there was no wiggle room for the assembly.

I hope to get it bolted together tonight and I'll take a pic to show my work.

THANKS Mark and gang!!

[robber grin]

Bottom center holes lined up and after "several" attempts at getting the rest drilled or hogged out to make it mount up - it's in and NO shimming required.


Thanks Mark for the technical article.

It's a good day.

[chopper john]

looking good

[markeb01]

Excellent, looks like a factory installation.

[robber grin]

Thanks John & Mark for the encouragement...

Considering I want to go down 5-plus with 3" drop coils and 2 1/2" drop spindles - BEFORE I go nuts prepping & painting control arms - will I need to make any changes to bump stops or snubbers?

Thanks
Bob

[chopper john]

on the lower control arm, the rubber and the bracket it sits on needs to go away. if you clean around the bracket you will see 5 or 6 spot welds just drill them out . dont go past the lower a arm then just wack it off. grind smooth.

[robber grin]

Originally Posted by chopper john

on the lower control arm, the rubber and the bracket it sits on needs to go away. if you clean around the bracket you will see 5 or 6 spot welds just drill them out . dont go past the lower a arm then just wack it off. grind smooth.

Okay I had heard that somewhere else as well... do I need to put anything in it's place for a bump stop?

[chopper john]

you could if you want. i never did on my truck . the cross member would hit the ground before the arms would hit the frame.and you are running drop spindles so i dont think you would have any problems.put everything together without the springs and let it on the ground. check for clearance. if you think you need some i would run something like this.

[massive69]

Originally Posted by chopper john

i did this on my 60 . there is two holes on each side that match up. what i di was lined up those bolts left a little loose. put the floor jack under it and with the weight of the truck i tightened the two bolts per side. then you will have to redrill and oval out a total of five holes per side.when all said and done you will have a total of 14 bolts holding the hole x member in place. its easiest with no suspension on it. just x member.i never used any shims, it fit just fine

I am working on my 60 and second guessing myself on the wheel being center. When I bolt crossmember to the fame the center bottom bolts line up one way and the other way the rear bottom and upper side rear line up. I was wondering the which specific bolts lined up?

[DakotaKid]

i think there is more of an issue with the Tire hitting the Top of the fenderwell than anything. I am running CPP 2.5 Drops spindles and 2" drops springs and i think im gonna have to run a bump stop to keep it from hitting the wheelhouse on top.