Heater hose shut off....

[SIR]

looking for something to cut the supply of hot water to the heater core...cab get's too warm...thank you..

[CRGRS 66]

I removed the fittings on the water pump and intake manifold and put pipe plugs in them, just be careful not to over tighten. Pipe threads are tapered, so you could crack the water pump or intake if you over tighten. I did this so that I could remove my entire heating system and restore it. I could not stop the heat from coming either.

[64fleetside]

I use a manual shutoff in the hose-open in winter, closed in summer. Part number 84706, Four Seasons brand.

[jchav62]

I used a ball-valve on my 62. On the pressure side hose (from the pump). Works well...

[LostMy65]

I just looped the one hose back to the other fitting - bypassing the heater.
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[markeb01]

I use a Napa BK6601024, 4 seasons brand, 5/8” hose size, vacuum opens valve.



http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...024_0361092986

I connect it to an electric/vacuum solenoid valve like this one, allowing the water valve to be opened and closed with a toggle switch. The valve I have was supplied by Old Air, but I don’t see it listed in their online spare parts:



http://liveryparts.com/items/a-c-and...012-detail.htm

There’s also nearly an unlimited assortment of cable operated mechanical valves available at your local auto parts store, just make sure to confirm whether the valve is normally opened or closed, so pulling the cable will operate it correctly. There are also completely manual models with a screw handle on top that opens and closes the valve like a water faucet. These are fool proof, but require opening the hood.

[purebred]

I used a ball valve also, bought it at Lowes for 7.99

[UK62LW]

A lot of the old British-Leyland stuff (Mini, Taxi, Land Rover, etc) used cable-operated valves that you could control from inside the car - I'll be using that type so I can control the temp on the move.

Here's an example - not sure what you can track down over your side of the pond, but it may be worth asking if these guys can ship internationally; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16mm-5-8-C...item43af635027

[bama63]

the one i used http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-E-F-SER...692042&vxp=mtr works great just add a universal cable and your done

[1964Chevy]

Ball valve from Home Depot. I take the handle off and stick it in the glove box. Here in Texas I will probably never use a heater, and at some point I may just flush the heater core and loop a hose from the water pump to the block.

[1964Chevy]

Originally Posted by purebred

I used a ball valve also, bought it at Lowes for 7.99

Hey Purebred, I love your battery tie down? Do you have a part number? It would go great in my truck. I actually don't have one. I used cable ties but pulled them out and never put anything back......

[donthekawguy]

Ebay has a ton of them. I think I seached for heater parts and about one zillion and 17 showed up in the search.

[MikeS.]

I used a ball valve on my trucks back in Calif., Fresno was just too hot in the summer.
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[Tx Firefighter]

Home Depot in the PEX plumbing section. Slick and high quality.




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[jesseo]

Originally Posted by purebred

I used a ball valve also, bought it at Lowes for 7.99

I have the same low tech battery tie down. Works great

[Rich 5150 69]

They sell them locally on ebay, just get another choke cable use the vacant hole in the dash to operate the valve from the cab....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Four-Seasons...6bcdb7&vxp=mtr

[losthope]

heres the cheapest cable style one ive found its found on fords....,ive been eyeing it on ebay just havent hit the "buy it now" button yet, using a ball valve now....$20 shipped to your door!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310234390594...84.m1423.l2649

[argonaut]

If you have the deluxe heater, you can run another cable to the back half of the "heat" lever so that it opens the door flap in the duct and at the same time closes off the water valve. I'll post pictures one day when I get the cable hooked up.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by argonaut

If you have the deluxe heater, you can run another cable to the back half of the "heat" lever so that it opens the door flap in the duct and at the same time closes off the water valve. I'll post pictures one day when I get the cable hooked up.

I have considered that exact same thing, and I was curious if anybody else ever tried it. Does it increase the effort (manual force) on the heater lever because it's moving two things at once? I'm guessing that the key is to have all of the cables, doors, and levers move as freely as possible with no binding.

I like the idea because it keeps things clean and subtle.

[argonaut]

I've got the valve in place, but still need to order the cable. I'll be buying all new cables that have a HDPE liners to hopefully make the actuation smoother.