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#1 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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Using spray in bedliner..any opinions??
I am going back and forth on what to do on the interior floorboards and bed of my blazer. I have it all clean (used an angle grinder and LOTS of pads) I was going to get Line-X to do it, but they are saying they want it 90% rust and paint free...I don't have the patience for that! I was thinking of using RATTLEGUARD.. I saw it on ebay...it is a DIY spray in bedliner. Also what do you think about Duraliner- roll on bedliner? The Blazer is different than a truck because all the liner will be interior, and covered by pad and carpet. How durable does that need to be? No sun, no big loads, ect. Sorry for the long post, but I am having a hard time deciding????
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: indiana
Posts: 186
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i know youve heard me say this,but, RHINO-LINING,great insulation and noise reduction,going t get mine done in a couple of weeks.i live in the rust belt,and i dont want to restore and then see it fall apart again,if i would have thought of it sooner i would have turned my blazer tub upside down,and had the bottom sprayed
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#3 |
Registered truck nut
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mt. Vernon, Washington, USA
Posts: 1,584
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90% paint free seems odd. A guy I know owns 2 linex dealerships and all they do is scuff up the paint then spray. I think your person is being overly cautious. I'd take it in an spray or bring it down here. i think your ready to go if you don't have any gaping holes. I'd stay away from the roll on stuff as it was thin and very coarse. Seems the carpet and pad would get ripped to shreds.
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MOUNT VERNON, WASH. STATE Need a part? Just PM me |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Durham ,NC
Posts: 94
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I had my Jimmy Line-X'd and I love it. They didn't require the paint to be off. They just sanded over it a little bit and spot welded a few small rust spots. They did the back and all the way to the firewall for $750. It was done last fall and it has lasted great so far. The best $ I ever spent on my truck.
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Dan Smith 1971 Jimmy |
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#5 |
SKINNY TIRES RULE!
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 11,049
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f your going to cover it in carpet, I'd go the Duraliner or the DIY spay in you mentioned. Nobody is going to see it and it is a lot cheaper.
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bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride2014 Fiat 500L |
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#6 |
Back in the sticks
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
Posts: 3,188
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I used the duplicolor roll in type liner in the bed of the 71. It is fairly tough, but not enough to handle any serious work. Tranny's and heavy sharp stuff have scraped it in places. For general duty and under carpet, it should be fine though. The price is right too for only about $40 a can. I used to cans on the bed and still had some left over for spot patching. Need to get out and fix some of the scrapes I have, but they are not rusting with the tonneau cover on. I think I will probably do my Blazer in the same thing since it will only be used for driving. Good luck, Jeff.
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Puyallup, Washington
Posts: 48
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my thoughts
if your going to cover it with carpet just use the easy stuff. if you are going to leave it as your floor the extra work is worth it. I thought about having mine sprayed when im done with all the rust repair and leaving as my floor for easy cleaning after 4wheelin.
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1972 k5 blazer 1969 Camaro 1955 Chevy 210 2 dr post 1985 Toyota SR5 4X4 1997 4 letter F word Explo(x)der |
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#8 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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Decided to go with Duraliner- like Red71Cheyenne said it isn't going to be bare or for hauling. I am putting pad and carpet over it. Here is a pic of the bed after ALL of the angle grinding! Whew what a lot of messy work! glad this part is done! I am anxious to get the carpet in and put all the seats in. I think I will send the tailgate over to Line-x and get the inside of the tailgate done. Probably will only be about $100 or so and very visable. I think it's worth it so it doesn't get scratched when I am loading in the groceries and stuff
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#9 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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floorboards
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,512
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prep for line-x
I'm almost certain Line-x or other commercial spray in liners require paint or good primer to allow their coatings to adhere to. The coatings actually body to apitned surface and bare metal, loose rust, etc. are not allowed. They are setup to prep and prime prior to spraying liner but that is extra cost. If priming yourselft check with them first.
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Bob |
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#11 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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Cheyenne10- I called the guy at Line-x here in town and he told me they want it down to the bare metal!? Also he said it can't have any rust...at least 90% or rust and paint off. I was really surprised! I don't think I will be doing line-x because I don't want to have to prep it like that and the guy told me he wouldn't line-x it without it being sandblasted till all the rust and paint were off! Crazy if you ask me! We put some POR-15 on the rust spots and are going to wait a few days sand that and they apply a roll on bedliner (herculiner) I am putting carpet and pad over that so I think it will be fine. Thanks for all the input!
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,512
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just to be sure
I have talked a bunch with a couple of dealers of the spray on liners. Maybe they have a new formula for bare metal but I have always been told that a painted or primed surface is needed. Double check on roll-on products to for proper surface needed.
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Bob |
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#13 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 1,580
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I warned you in a post a month ago about what garbage LineX is. They do NOT stand behind their product. they totally messed up my New Cummins pickup a few years back and told me to take a walk when I wanted them to make good on their defective product... I sold the truck.......................... I rest my case
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#14 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 1,580
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LINE X.... BAD BAD BAD.... NO NO NO .... I made the $500 mistake.. DONT DO IT!
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: indiana
Posts: 186
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i have a friend that used to do line-x,and now does rhino,i cant tell you all the complaints he had about line-x.either product needs a good primer or paint to adhere to,absolutely no bare metal.ive read the manufactures reports.rhino stay flexible.linex sets up hard like glass, ive seen it shatter the same
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#16 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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Pics of the finished product!!! We rolled in a roll-on-bedliner today! It is Herculiner, picked it up at Schucks for $79.99 and then a $20.00 rebate. It was smelly
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#17 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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floorboards
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#18 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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close-up.
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#19 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 117
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Looks great. I am thinking about using herculiner. Thanks for being my guinea pig.
![]() What do you think about applying it in the rocker area? (the part that you step on to get in and out of the truck) That seems like a high wear area. |
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#20 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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Personally I like the look of a nice painted rocker area. I have seen aluminum plates that screw down to the rockers and help with the wear and tear----look cool too!!! My husband put in this herculiner in one day- prep and all! Went on real nice and easy to keep even coats! I would recommend it. Now to see if it holds up, right?!?
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#21 |
TONYP
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 100
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all I will say is use a smooth finish paint, I know guys that have used the rough stuff and it will remove skin...
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72 K/5 350/205 SOFT-TOP DOUG THORLEY HEADERS A/C CUSTOM REAR BUMPER http://www.socalbigdawgs.com/tr/7.18.03/DSC04290.JPG |
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#22 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 1,580
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Only if you get frisky on it
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#23 |
454 club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,348
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Looks good to me.
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David 1965 Chevrolet c-10 454 automatic Custom bbw swb. 1965 Chevrolet C-10 swb (Sold) 1963 Chevrolet C-10 6 Cyl automatic with dual exhaust, pb, ps and 17's. R.I.P "I will miss you. 1967 Chevrolet C-10 6 Cyl Custom lwb 1939 Chevrolet Coupe, 350 v8 automatic. 1935 Chevrolet 2 Dr Standard in the works. 2015 Harley Davidson Street Glide. 2023 Chevrolet Stingray Z51 Convertible. I never want to grow up. |
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#24 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,608
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Look's great!!!! very similar to mine
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GO BIG GREEN ![]() MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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#25 | |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
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Quote:
Thanks for all the comments guys! I am going to remove the tape this afternoon, any advice? I don't want to have to use a razor blade, but I also don't want to rip up the coating...I am just excited to start putting in the interior. We still have to align panels and put on the front grill ect. Also put on the tailgate and all the hardware. Then put on all the outside lower woodgrain trim. Getting closer tho'! |
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