Order for replacing Cab Sheetmetal

[BrianDamage]

I thought I saw a thread here the other day with a "preferred" order of sheetmetal/patch panel replacement...the order mentioned that this was the same order that the factory assembled the cab

Anyone got a link to that thread or know what the order is? OR DOES IT EVEN MATTER?!?

I got a lot of patchin' to do so if there is a way to make it any "easier" on me, I'm lookin/ LOL

[Atommik]

I don't know if I saw that post, but I've got a 51 also, here's what I did.

Inner kick panels tacked in place, replaced cab floor in front of the back of the seat mount support, then I replaced the angled section of the base of the firewall (from where it mounts to the floor to where it meets the vertical part of firewall), then I sectioned in partially smoothed panels for the rest of the fire wall. All of the cab repair panels I made my self, with the exception of the floor panel, which I had a local sheet metal shop make. After all the inner work was done, I repaired the door bottoms using the rusty cab corners as a guide for fit, then used the doors as a guide to replace all 4 cab corners. (I bought aftermarket cab corners.) That's how I did mine, I'm sure there are many other ways too. Feel free to check out my build thread...I have quite a few pics of the process!!

[mr48chev]

The way Atommik says he did his makes a lot of sense as having the new kick panels in place first would locate the floorboards better.

The factory assembly manual makes it look like the underbody, floor boards and toe board were assembled as one piece and everything else was attached to that though.

In then end I'd do it in a manner that allowed for the least fight and uproar. Look at it with the eye to "if I put this panel in first how will it affect this panel when I put it in?

[_Ogre]

To quote Johnny cash: one piece at a time.
Order shouldn't matter unless the previous piece is under it.
don't cut every thing out and lose shape
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[BrianDamage]

Originally Posted by Atommik

I don't know if I saw that post, but I've got a 51 also, here's what I did.

Inner kick panels tacked in place, replaced cab floor in front of the back of the seat mount support, then I replaced the angled section of the base of the firewall (from where it mounts to the floor to where it meets the vertical part of firewall), then I sectioned in partially smoothed panels for the rest of the fire wall. All of the cab repair panels I made my self, with the exception of the floor panel, which I had a local sheet metal shop make. After all the inner work was done, I repaired the door bottoms using the rusty cab corners as a guide for fit, then used the doors as a guide to replace all 4 cab corners. (I bought aftermarket cab corners.) That's how I did mine, I'm sure there are many other ways too. Feel free to check out my build thread...I have quite a few pics of the process!!

Thanks !
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[OrrieG]

If you are going to be replacing alot of the step and floor structure, and you know your doors fit ok, I would put in temporary horizontal cross bracing to keep the cab squared up. If the doors do not fit the openings I would address them first after replacing the lower hinge pockets if needed. There have been a couple of builds here where guys did extensive lower body work, then could not get the doors to work right and had to back track.

[BrianDamage]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

If you are going to be replacing alot of the step and floor structure, and you know your doors fit ok, I would put in temporary horizontal cross bracing to keep the cab squared up. If the doors do not fit the openings I would address them first after replacing the lower hinge pockets if needed. There have been a couple of builds here where guys did extensive lower body work, then could not get the doors to work right and had to back track.

yea mine fit pretty good.. i braced em up and made me a cart out of another frame...got quite a bit of frame work to do before i start working on the cab