Trying to get this truck running

[softballnrd27]

02 6.0, computer and harness modified by me; th350 trans ASA cam. It was still running in Jamie's truck before he pulled it out and sold it to me so the internals should be good. Only things that changed are: DBC, no emissions, no VATS, no EGR, Only using front 02 sensors.
So Jamie and I gave it a shot today and tried to get the tune in and the truck running but we ran out of time.
Maybe he will chime in later on so he can tell everyone exactly what was happening but I will give it a go. All the sensors were working and giving him some readings that he said were good to go except the map sensor. It was reading at 102 and only dropped down to 95 at the lowest. He looked at some logs and most were reading 40-60. We pulled the map sensor and the orange rubber stuff around the male end was chewed up and the sensor was dirty. I got a new sensor and tried to fire it but the same thing was happening. Now that you have the back story here is what it is doing:
It will turn over with ease but will not "fire" w/o holding the throttle open some. When it does fire it is rough and it backfires like crazy and reaks of gas. If you have any ideas on what/where to check please let me know bc I want this thing running SOON.
Here is a short video:
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...-51-52_765.mp4

[softballnrd27]

I checked all the wires at the computer connection and they are all in their correct spot so that eliminates that part of it. I am not sure where to go next.

[ls1nova71]

Couldn't watch the video on this phone, but I got some questions for you. How far apart did you strip the harness down? Is it possible that you've got the injector plugs in the wrong spot or wrong banks? And are you sure you got the cam timed right? Do you have a TPS signals. So you know that that part of the tune is set correctly (DBW toDBC)

[Super73]

A non running motor will show MAP of 100-105kpa which is atmospheric pressure. A running motor at idle pulls vacum which the lower the KPA, the more vacum it is pulling. A stock LS typically idles around 30-40kpa. A big cammed LS will idle in the 70-80kpa range. So, I think your MAP readings are fine so far.

Double check the cam and crank sensors were not mixed up. The connector looks identical to each other and can definately cause a situation like this.

Also, if the cam sensor is not getting voltage, it will pop and backfire slightly through the throttle body when trying to start. Good thing though is you don't need a cam sensor to fire, just the crank sensor.

How is your friend checking the sensors? Obviously a scanner.
Disconnect either the cam (easier to get to) or the crank sensor and have him log both sensors. Crank it over. If you disconnected the cam sensor but get a reading on it in the data logger, well you made the simple mistake of switching them.

[softballnrd27]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Couldn't watch the video on this phone, but I got some questions for you. How far apart did you strip the harness down? Is it possible that you've got the injector plugs in the wrong spot or wrong banks? And are you sure you got the cam timed right? Do you have a TPS signals. So you know that that part of the tune is set correctly (DBW toDBC)

The motor was running when i bought it and the guy I bought it from is the one helping me tune it. Nit sure if you are talking about the cam being installed correctly or not.

I will double check the injector plugs tomorrow. I took every pin out of the computer so I could feed them through the hole in the firewall so I could have them hooked up at the computer right but not at the injectors(I checked the pins on the computer side and they were fully seated and in the correct spot).

I do have TPS signal it goes from either 0-100 or 100-0. I am not sure which it is bc I am trying to learn the tuning aspect of it.

[softballnrd27]

Originally Posted by Super73

A non running motor will show MAP of 100-105kpa which is atmospheric pressure. A running motor at idle pulls vacum which the lower the KPA, the more vacum it is pulling. A stock LS typically idles around 30-40kpa. A big cammed LS will idle in the 70-80kpa range. So, I think your MAP readings are fine so far.

Double check the cam and crank sensors were not mixed up. The connector looks identical to each other and can definately cause a situation like this.

Also, if the cam sensor is not getting voltage, it will pop and backfire slightly through the throttle body when trying to start. Good thing though is you don't need a cam sensor to fire, just the crank sensor.

How is your friend checking the sensors? Obviously a scanner.
Disconnect either the cam (easier to get to) or the crank sensor and have him log both sensors. Crank it over. If you disconnected the cam sensor but get a reading on it in the data logger, well you made the simple mistake of switching them.

I will check the cam and crank sensors as well tomorrow. He is using the HPTuners scanner I think. I wasn't in the cab to see what he was using. I was also told to check all the grounds. I am going to try and figure it out tomorrow.

Thanks for the tips!!

[Super73]

If he is using hptuners and you have a flash drive, I would be happy to look over a cranking log and your current tune to see if I see anything abnormal. You could e-mail me the files. Would need:

.cfg
.hpl
.hpt
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[softballnrd27]

I will get the logs next time he comes over. Thanks again!!

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by softballnrd27

I took every pin out of the computer so I could feed them through the hole in the firewall so I could have them hooked up at the computer right but not at the injectors(I checked the pins on the computer side and they were fully seated and in the correct spot).

Are you "Ohming" the wires one buy one, PCM wire colors repeat themselves, Just looking at the color doesnt work.

[softballnrd27]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Are you "Ohming" the wires one buy one, PCM wire colors repeat themselves, Just looking at the color doesnt work.

That is my next step if everything else is good to go.

When I did my harness I pulled all the pins out and I re-installed them 1 group at a time. Coil bank 1, Coil Bank 2, MAF, MAP etc so I am pretty sure I did it correctly but mistakes can happen.

[softballnrd27]

I pulled all the pins agin to fix some routing issues I came across and also to fix a few things that were bugging me.
I re-did all of my Keyed 12V power wires for the injectors, coils, MAF, and 02 sensors. I also improved my grounds. Before I had all the grounds slodered to 1 wire with a ring terminal. It was a big glob of s#$t and I shouldn't have done it that way so I fixed it. I also had some paint between the block and the groundig terminal so I cleaned that away as well. I have all the wires for the computer installed and will finish up the power wires tonight.

[softballnrd27]

Just a quick run down of my grounds, let me know if I can improve it in any other way:
Battery mounted under bed negative cable straight to the frame (1ga wire)
Stock ground straps to the body
1ga ground from frame to engine block, nothing to the heads
Is there anything I else need to do?

[softballnrd27]

I just went through my colis and their harness and everything is good to go. I did a continuity test on each wire and all of them are as they should be. Fingers crossed that I fixed the problem!! Maybe I will be able to fire this thing off tonight.

[Super73]

I still don't think it was an ignition or fuel issue. It would not pop/backfire through the throttle body if it did not have spark/fuel. You also mentioned it smelt of gas.

Did you ever put the scanner on it and log Cam/Crank sensors?
Did you try to unplug the cam sensor and see if the logger is still showing signal when you crank it over?

[Super73]

Another thing.. Are you trying his old tune, or are you starting from a stock tune?

[softballnrd27]

I was just checking everything before he comes back to me. We haven't been able to log anything since bc we haven't been able to meet up again. He started with his old tune and modified it to fit my truck(VATS and Emissions stuff) I also double checked the cam/crank sensors and they are hooked up to their correct plugs. Once he can come back we will log it.

[softballnrd27]

I got it running it just needs to be fine tuned. My buddy is going to come over tomorrow to tune it so we can dial it in. I will log it and post the results.

[Super73]

Somewhat was the problem? Anything? Or just the tune?


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[softballnrd27]

It runs without back firing now. We tried to tune it tonight and we were getting P0200 and P0300. P0200 is Injector Circuit and P0300 is a random misfire detected. You can definitely feel the misfire when you go above idle.

I am using flex fuel injectors that are 30lbs compared to the 24lbs stockers. The injectors didn't sit for too long but one could be clogged or bad. My buddy is getting some noid lights to check to see if they are firing like they should. I will have to check all the injector wires.

[softballnrd27]

Sorry, to answer your question Shaun, I honestly don't know. I checked all the coil wires and connectors to ensure everything was good there along with all the connections throughout the whole harness. I re-did my grounds and 12v keyed wires. He logged it but I didn't get it bc it started to rain pretty hard.

[softballnrd27]

I have the injector wiring from the 6.0 so we can try a known good set of injectors if we need to. He was running the truck with stock injectors before so it should be fine even with the cam and bump in compression. Everything that I have researched is either bad wiring, loose plugs, or bad injector(s). The only thing is we aren't getting a specific cylinder in the scan(HPTuners) just P0300. The last number will show 1-8 for what cylinder is misfiring.

[Dustytrix]

Why not go ahead and pull the plugs, the one that is not firing should be easy to tell then. I had a misfire when I started my engine. It was the #2 injector clogged up but found it by pulling plugs first.

[softballnrd27]

I really want this thing to run and Jamie and I are at our wits end with it. I got it to idle on its own but there was a miss that I could definitely feel. When Jamie was able to put the scanner on it we were gettting P0200 and P0300 codes(Injector Circuit Problem and Random Misfire)
Here is what we have done:
1. I moved the grounds for the PCM from the body to the motor. All of my grounds for the engine/PCM are now on 1 ground on the back of the motor. I have 4 grounds from the PCM (pins 1 & 40 on each connector), 1 for each coil bank and 02 sensor and 1 for the MAF/IAT sensor.
2. Jamie hooked up a noid light to the injectors and 1, 3, 2, and 4 injectors weren't lighting up.
3. I checked all the injectors for keyed 12v and they all had 12.3v
4. Next I checked the continuity of the injector wires from the pin for the computer to the injector and all of them had connectivity.
5. I also swapped the injectors around to see if the problem followed the injectors but I wasn't sure if it made a differnece bc I could un hook all plugs from 1 side and no matter which 1 i hooked up it seemed to run a little better. This is where I stopped bc I ran out of time.
After talking to Jamie about how the noid lights worked I have come to the conclusion that it probably isn't an injector issue but probably either wiring or the actual computer itself. After reading and researching I have found out that there are drivers in computer for the injectors but I can't find out which injectors go to which driver anywhere. If I knew that it would help out. I am not sure where to go from here and I am tired of chasing our tails. I followed everything on LT1swap.com to a tee.

[Shon]

U swapped from stock injectors to the bigger ones, was the PCM tuned for the larger injectors?
Have you done the "watch all the injectors spray into a bucket" test? pull rail up out of intake and set up a bucket to make sure ALL 8 are squirting. as I have said in many post, noid lights only tell you that the PCM is telling them to fire, doesnt tell you that they ARE firing/squirting. Trust me on this, its a 30min test that's worth it if you are baffled and out of ideas...why...b/c that's what I had to do. I do it on every one of them now. And with the Ethanol gas, things gum up really quick.

Also, if its popping/backfiring thru intake that's a timing issue. When I redid the harness (wire by wire) I had changed a few things and ended up having the coil wires on each bank 180* out not DR to PS but #8 on pass side was firing #2 and that needed to be changed, once that was done it ran good.

[softballnrd27]

Originally Posted by Shon

U swapped from stock injectors to the bigger ones, was the PCM tuned for the larger injectors?
Have you done the "watch all the injectors spray into a bucket" test? pull rail up out of intake and set up a bucket to make sure ALL 8 are squirting. as I have said in many post, noid lights only tell you that the PCM is telling them to fire, doesnt tell you that they ARE firing/squirting. Trust me on this, its a 30min test that's worth it if you are baffled and out of ideas...why...b/c that's what I had to do. I do it on every one of them now. And with the Ethanol gas, things gum up really quick.

Also, if its popping/backfiring thru intake that's a timing issue. When I redid the harness (wire by wire) I had changed a few things and ended up having the coil wires on each bank 180* out not DR to PS but #8 on pass side was firing #2 and that needed to be changed, once that was done it ran good.

I have not tried that test. I will see if I can do that.

I did however make sure that my coil packs were wired correctly. I went as far as checking connectivity from the computer pin to the actual coil the wire should be going to.