Fuel Line / Pump Questions

[MattPSU]

My new Boyd Welding tank is scheduled to arrive next week and I'm trying to plan the fuel lines for it. I've decided to run stainless steel braided lines. From the tank it's not a problem, but I'm using the stock style fuel pump that's just a flanged connection with a clamp. Can I use the braided lines on that connection along with a clamp? I think one is smaller, so I expect that to be a potential issue as well (3/8" in and 5/16" for the return). Any help/suggestions here is appreciated.

OR...

I started to look into putting an Edelbrock pump on as I plan to replace the Q-Jet with an Edelbrock 1406 and I know it'll run better with the pressure regulated. (I don't really need a new pump as I just replaced it earlier this year but the carb has to go...) So I'll need to drop $100 for their pump, or add a regulator at that point. I'm thinking adding the pump now might be a better idea since it's 3/8" in and out. The problem then becomes the fact that this pump has no return. Do I need a return? Not running a second braided line makes paying $100 for a new pump a lot easier.

Also, should I run a filter between the tank and the pump? Or should it be between the pump and the carb? Or both?

While I'm asking...Are you guys running a shut off valve? Should I add a shut off or not?

Thanks in advance for the help. The knowledge gained from this board is un-measurable! - Matt

[gotchamel]

You will meed a Russell fitting,think its a male inverted flare{pump side}to a 6an female to the stainless line.I just went through this and will get you a part number.Summitt has it.A 90 works best.

[Zeke's Garage]

I'm assuming that you're just using 3/8 SS braided rubber fuel line? If so, you can just run that to the inlet of the fuel pump, unless it's a different size. If you plan on running AN connectors, there are adapters that will allow for slip on connections as well.

As for whether or not you should run an electric or mechanical with a regulator and/or return, is really up to you. I know you hear folks say that you HAVE to run an Edelbrock pump with your 1406 or you'll overpressure the needle and seat, but I've setup two of them with the stock fuel pump and no regulator was needed. If you're just going to run a 600cfm carb, I can't see any reason why you would go with the complexity of an electric pump when the stock mechanical ones are so well designed and built.

As for a return line, if you're not running a regulator, there's no reason for it in my opinion.

[davepl]

I've clamped stainless flex line like that before and it worked, but probably the "right" way to do it would be to put a fitting on the end of the braided line into which you can screw a barbed fitting, and then run 2-3 inches of rubber fuel line between them.

If you're not scared of flaring pipe, I'd look at hard line. I've done both now (a big -12AN on my Camaro and 3/8 stainless hard line on the truck) and all in all I prefer the hardline. It's probably a lot cheaper too... though stainless pipe is about $60 for a 20 foot roll, mild steel is cheap like borscht.

In the Camaro setup I'm using a huge Aeromotive pump, and I use a 100-micron filter before the pump and a 10-micron filter after it. That's what Aeromotive recommends, but that's for fuel injection. Pretty sure a 10 micron chunk of goo wouldn't stick a needle and seat. Still, if the pump is expensive, the pre-filter will help protect it.

Last thing is to make sure your electric pump is BELOW the tank. Should be easy in the truck, but in the Camaro it caused me no end of grief and I wound up having move to an in-tank setup.

[MattPSU]

Thanks for the input guys. I guess I should clarify what pump I'm looking at as it's still a mechanical pump - not electric. Here's a link:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1721/10002/-1

[GuyO]

No need for a filter before the pump. I have used the braided clamp on the mechanical pump with no problems. A 90 that comes out of the pump can be run either inside of the bottom radiator hose or outside. I have done it both ways. I have two 1406's with mechanical pumps, no problems except heat sink - I recommend a phenolic spacer if it is a issue for you. I have pressure gauges installed in the line after the filter/before the carb. Also, I put in check valves to reduce vacuum sucking the fuel back to the tank after shut down when warm. Mostly all of it is overkill.

[gotchamel]

The Summitt part # is rus640380,that allows you to use stock fuel pump to Edelbrock 8123 braided fuel line.

[MattPSU]

Thanks again for the responses.

I'm not sure if I've explained my issue correctly. Below is a picture of the fuel pump I have. From left to right across the bottom:
L - 3/8" inlet, flared for hose w/ clamp
C- 5/16" return, flared for hose w/ clamp
R - 3/8" NPT threaded outlet to carb

I'm trying to figure out how to connect a stainless steel braided line to the flared ends on the pump. Usually the braided lines have AN fittings, but is there a fitting to use on this flared end? Can I just slip the bare end of the hose over it and use a worm gear style clamp? Should I put a barb on the end of my braided line and use a small piece of plain rubber line and clamps from the braided line to the pump? What's my best method of connecting these two?

If I decide to go to the Edelbrock pump, it has 3/8" NPT threaded connections for both inlet and outlet, so a simple AN to NPT fitting will do the trick there. But it doesn't have a return. Do I need a return? I guess not if I use this pump. Correct?
-Matt

[gotchamel]

Here is the Russell fitting that will allow you to connect stock gm fuel pump to Edelbrock braided fuel hose.As you can see push on and clamps are fine for inlet.

[gotchamel]

Here is the carb end of the connection with a inline filter.

[jondancer]

Do you need a return line?
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[vidman]

I would use a pump that has 2 inverted flair fittings on it not the push on barb type with the hose clamp. If you need a return line,you can get a regulator with a return on it. You can use the stainless line on that barb fitting its your truck. I would never do that. I have way too much money invested in my ride...Just my 2 cents

[GuyO]

I learned that sometimes a mechanical needs to be primed. I did not know this and swear I never have done it before. However, after 2 new mechanical pumps on a 72 Blazer I bought a electric pump and plumbed it in series. Meaning that I have it pumping to and through the mechanical pump. It pulled from the poly tank, through 2 filters the mechanical pump and loaded the floats of the Edelbrock 1406 and my engine fired. Because I need to adjust my lifters and have my covers off, I did not start the engine and hooked up my under hood starter. While cranking the engine I noticed my fuel pressure gauge jump up to 7-8 lbs WITHOUT the electric pump! I let it rest a while and did some other tasks, came back and the pressure gauge dropped to 0, so I squeezed the remote starter trigger and the engine cranked, and the fuel pressure gauge jumped right back up to 7+ lbs!!!! Why would a mechanical pump need to be primed? Also, as I had sucked gas up through the line from 2 different sources to check for flow the mechanical pump did not build pressure. Wouldn't that been equivalent to priming? Anyone have any input?? This was very frustrating!! Guy