Rotor keeps going out!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mastx · 10-14-2003, 02:19 PM

I got a 350 with electronic ignition. I had everything done new back in February. Back about six weeks ago, my truck wouldn't start. I found no spark, so I replaced the control module and the rotor (white cover type thing under the distributor cap). I'm not not sure which was bad, but replacing both seemed to fix the problem.

It did it again on Friday, but this time, I had the control module tested and it was good, so all I had to do was replace the rotor. Well, it did it again today(3 days later).

Is there something that could be making my rotor burn out prematurely??

Any ideas or suggestions, good or bad are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mario

**COBALT** · 10-14-2003, 02:22 PM

Could be a short near your coil. Are you sure you're getting the right voltage? I believe you need 12v (where points only need 8 or 9). Might want to check the circuit from the starter to the coil and from the front harness. Make sure you're not shorting there and burning out your module.

cdowns · 10-14-2003, 02:31 PM

when converting to electronic ignition the original wire can't be used a new wire must be run because the original wire is a resistance wire and provides about 7-8volts to the distributor.

stelth2002 · 10-14-2003, 03:40 PM

The cap and rotor in my 6 go bad quite fast with the msd, etc. I have to replace them every 1k miles at least, but i have enough juice going to the spark pluyg to weld with.

jhow66 · 10-14-2003, 06:42 PM

Sounds like the ground wire in cap is missing. Look to see if there are 3 blades where 3 wire pigtail from dist. plugs in to cap. Middle one is the ground. If there remove coil cover and see if it is connected to one of the screws that hold the coil to cap.

10-14-2003, 02:19 PM	#1
mastx Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Luling, Texas Posts: 61	Rotor keeps going out!!! I got a 350 with electronic ignition. I had everything done new back in February. Back about six weeks ago, my truck wouldn't start. I found no spark, so I replaced the control module and the rotor (white cover type thing under the distributor cap). I'm not not sure which was bad, but replacing both seemed to fix the problem. It did it again on Friday, but this time, I had the control module tested and it was good, so all I had to do was replace the rotor. Well, it did it again today(3 days later). Is there something that could be making my rotor burn out prematurely?? Any ideas or suggestions, good or bad are greatly appreciated. Thanks Mario __________________ Mario A. Santos marioasantos@hotmail.com Luling, Texas 1970 C/20 (in slow progress) 1971 Custom Camper Longhorn

10-14-2003, 02:22 PM	#2
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Could be a short near your coil. Are you sure you're getting the right voltage? I believe you need 12v (where points only need 8 or 9). Might want to check the circuit from the starter to the coil and from the front harness. Make sure you're not shorting there and burning out your module. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-14-2003, 02:31 PM	#3
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	when converting to electronic ignition the original wire can't be used a new wire must be run because the original wire is a resistance wire and provides about 7-8volts to the distributor. __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

10-14-2003, 03:40 PM	#4
stelth2002 Young Gun wth Fast Inline Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 1,475	The cap and rotor in my 6 go bad quite fast with the msd, etc. I have to replace them every 1k miles at least, but i have enough juice going to the spark pluyg to weld with. __________________ 1967 Chevrolet LWB with built 292! 415 ft. lbs of torque, 4 speed :O with 27% overdrive too, 3.73 Posi. Frame and body done... getting painted!!!

10-14-2003, 06:42 PM	#5
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Sounds like the ground wire in cap is missing. Look to see if there are 3 blades where 3 wire pigtail from dist. plugs in to cap. Middle one is the ground. If there remove coil cover and see if it is connected to one of the screws that hold the coil to cap. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer



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