Need some front end rebuild guidance

[cclaeys]

I have a 1970 Jimmy 4x4, Dana 44 front with drum brakes. I have searched all over with no place left to turn. I bought the truck a couple of months ago and finally got it streetable but first drive was not impressive at 40+ - just not tight as it should be, kinds like a 16 foot v hull in 2 foot rollers. There is lots of rust, caked on bearing grease, dirt and neglect, it sat for a couple of years, but I am gonna bring it back and have fun figuring something new while I am at it.

I bought all new moog front end parts, tie rod ends, drag link and ball joints that I hope to actually install myself and learn something in the process - brakes and bearings et al will probably follow, I wanna do it once and right. I stared at it a couple of days and tonight decided to wtf it. First twist of the tire iron produced nothing, the cheater produced a broken wheel stud. I blastered it, heated it gave it a wrap and one came off followed by 4 breaks.

The wheel is off and the truck on stands, but that is as far as I am. I have the factory service/overhaul manuals and a crappy haynes but they dont tell me the straightforward what I need to do. I am assuming I pop that locking hub cover off and then there are some spindle nuts under there but just wanna make sure I am on the right track before I goof somethin up. I could really leverage your expertise...sorry for blabbering, thanks for the consideration.

[lolife99]

Any 4x4 guys out there, that can help?

[Ridgeback]

Post your email and I will send you a copy of the Dana Spicer maintenance manuals.

[76k10]

A front end rebuild is a high beer consumption project. Otherwise, you will need quite a bit of patience. Do not try to do it in a hurry.

[JPBrecheisen]

If you are new to 4x4's I would recommend doing only one side at a time.

I say this because you can work on one side, but still have a "model" how its supposed to back together. When I first started this is how I did it and sometimes still do. I always wanted to have an example to go by if needed when reassembling everything.

What can be different is the syle of locking hub you have. Search the web for the style hub you have, and many times you can find a diagram to see all the parts that are inside, so you will know what to expect during disassembly.

Once you get the locking hubs off, you'll find the wheel hub is held on with 2 large nuts. They make a socket for these nuts that can be purchased at a local automotive store. They can bet price. usually they're in the $20 range. If you you don't want to splurge and they aren't too tight, you can get them off with a long punch and medium hammer. The material the nuts are made off is really soft, so you don't want to go crazy. Just get the long punch and place it up against one of the nut flats near one of the "points" and tap lightly with the hammer. Go easy, but this should get them loose enough to spin off with your fingers. The first one will come out, then you'll find a locking type washer against another nut of the same size. Pull the locking washer out, then repeat the punch tap procedure on the second nut. The second nut will be agains the outer wheel bearing. When you remove the inboard nut, the wheel hub will slide off the spindle at that point.

With the wheel hub off, you can clean and inspect the wheel bearings. You will need to remove the inner wheel up seal in order to get out the inner wheel bearing. Replace the wheels bearings and wheel seal as needed.

At this point you'll have the knuckle ready for inspection. If it is a closed knuckle, you will want to remove the knuckle and inspect and likely replace the king pin bearings. They are easy to do. Let me know if it is infact a closed knuckle, and I can help you with this procedure and where to find parts at a decent price.

As far as the broken studs in the hub, you should be able to push them out with a press or tap them out with a small sledge and a good size punch. Look at the back side of the wheel hub as they will need to be pushed through the back side. New ones are available at any local parts store. You'll need to know the diameter and thread pitch in order to get the correct replacements. New studs are simply pressed in from the back side. If you press or hammer them out, make sure you support the wheel hub flange so you don't bend it. Use 2 blocks of wood and support the flange when you're pressing the stud. A bent wheel hub flange will give you all sorts of problems, so take care during this task.

I hope this will get you started. Let me know about the closed knuckle, and I can help with that as well.

Jonathon