1964 c60 help

[andrewj1398]

Hey everyone I am new to the forum! So thanks for the help in advance. I bought a 64 C60 from a buddy of mine last week. Once I got it home I realized there is a lot more rust in the floor pan than I originally thought. My question is I was on Top Banana's website and saw replacement floor pans with backing plates(item#: 01-0848-218) they look similar to my floor pans will they fit a C60? I have heard that the cab is the same as the C10 is this true?. So all of you C60 experts if you could help me out with some thoughts on some aftermarket rust patches for this beast that would be great!

[Clyde65]

I believe the firewall is a little deeper iirc, the floors I believe are exact or very close.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jonzcustomshop]

the only issue you will have is if you have a lcf (short hood), otherwise about the only major difference with a c/60 c/10 cab is the flat floor hump (in the c/60), all the rust repair panels available will work on your truck.

the only piece that you might have a problem finding if it is also rusty is the center floor hump, which is flat and c/50-c/80 only.

some c/80's with the big allison 5 speed transmission came with a low floor hump, like you would find in a c/10 with a powerglide, or a 3 speed., this might be a consideration if you want an original floor mat, since they do not make the flat c/50-c/80 mat.

[travz500]

andrew if you need the center flat piece over the tranny I may be able to help you out wont be right away but i may be able to let me know if you think you might need this part pm me if u do

[MikeS.]

Andrew

[andrewj1398]

It is a LCF. I will try and post pictures in a little bit. The rust is mainly near the doors not so much towards the center of the cab.

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

the only issue you will have is if you have a lcf (short hood), otherwise about the only major difference with a c/60 c/10 cab is the flat floor hump (in the c/60), all the rust repair panels available will work on your truck.

the only piece that you might have a problem finding if it is also rusty is the center floor hump, which is flat and c/50-c/80 only.

some c/80's with the big allison 5 speed transmission came with a low floor hump, like you would find in a c/10 with a powerglide, or a 3 speed., this might be a consideration if you want an original floor mat, since they do not make the flat c/50-c/80 mat.

[andrewj1398]

Here on some pictures of the driver and passenger floor boards. All the rust is at the door openings. I know I will have to replace both rockers and some of the floor boards. I want to save as much original metal as I can.

By the may this is a LCF!

Thanks for the help!

[andrewj1398]

This is the truck previous owner named it "TOWMATER."

Where can I get a set of mirrors like that at?

[jonzcustomshop]

so the good news is that the rust did not get into the lcf only part of the footwell.
you have a little fabrication ahead of you, but I still think you will benefit from front and side floor pans and outer rockers, the main difference in the lcf cab is where the footwell is modified for the tire clearance.
you do not need to buy inner rockers, because they are part of the front and side floor pans when you buy them.
also, good plan leaving as much original metal as you can, I suggest trim out what is bad, and use the patchpanels to fix, you might run into a small bit of fabrication if the rust got into the foot well , but it is not going to be any more work than your initial repair.

* super important on this kind of repair, as you cut out pieces of the rusty metal , save it all till you are done, you might need parts for patterns, and if the very front of the rocker panel is different than a c/10, you might need to cut and splice some of your old pieces.
btw, cool truck, what engine does it have?

[andrewj1398]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

so the good news is that the rust did not get into the lcf only part of the footwell.
you have a little fabrication ahead of you, but I still think you will benefit from front and side floor pans and outer rockers, the main difference in the lcf cab is where the footwell is modified for the tire clearance.
you do not need to buy inner rockers, because they are part of the front and side floor pans when you buy them.
also, good plan leaving as much original metal as you can, I suggest trim out what is bad, and use the patchpanels to fix, you might run into a small bit of fabrication if the rust got into the foot well , but it is not going to be any more work than your initial repair.

* super important on this kind of repair, as you cut out pieces of the rusty metal , save it all till you are done, you might need parts for patterns, and if the very front of the rocker panel is different than a c/10, you might need to cut and splice some of your old pieces.
btw, cool truck, what engine does it have?

Thanks! It has a 292 straight 6 cyl. Paid 1000 for it from a friend he had it sitting around not doing anything with it.

[andrewj1398]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

so the good news is that the rust did not get into the lcf only part of the footwell.
you have a little fabrication ahead of you, but I still think you will benefit from front and side floor pans and outer rockers, the main difference in the lcf cab is where the footwell is modified for the tire clearance.
you do not need to buy inner rockers, because they are part of the front and side floor pans when you buy them.
also, good plan leaving as much original metal as you can, I suggest trim out what is bad, and use the patchpanels to fix, you might run into a small bit of fabrication if the rust got into the foot well , but it is not going to be any more work than your initial repair.

* super important on this kind of repair, as you cut out pieces of the rusty metal , save it all till you are done, you might need parts for patterns, and if the very front of the rocker panel is different than a c/10, you might need to cut and splice some of your old pieces.
btw, cool truck, what engine does it have?

Just to make sure I need these parts on both sides right? Who sales the cheapest patch panels? These are from Top Banana.

[jonzcustomshop]

since your rust does not continue all the way to the pedals, you might be able to get away with not purchasing those bigger flat pans in the last pic, looks like the piece in the first shot is big enough to cover the hole...

I don't know if you can find mirrors like that anymore....

[andrewj1398]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

since your rust does not continue all the way to the pedals, you might be able to get away with not purchasing those bigger flat pans in the last pic, looks like the piece in the first shot is big enough to cover the hole...

I don't know if you can find mirrors like that anymore....

Thanks. Maybe I will try and save these.

[Captainfab]

What is wrong with the mirrors on it? The mirror glass itself can be replaced at a glass shop.

Some of your better auto parts suppliers can order replacement mirrors similar to those. They likely won't be able to find anything if you ask for mirrors for a '64 C60. You'll have to get a little creative and ask for a newer model truck. I have an '89 GMC 7500 that has similar mirrors.

[andrewj1398]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What is wrong with the mirrors on it? The mirror glass itself can be replaced at a glass shop.

Some of your better auto parts suppliers can order replacement mirrors similar to those. They likely won't be able to find anything if you ask for mirrors for a '64 C60. You'll have to get a little creative and ask for a newer model truck. I have an '89 GMC 7500 that has similar mirrors.

Nothing is wrong with the mirrors them self. The bars are pretty rusted. I might take them apart and sand blast them and see what they are looking like.

[luvmytruck]

I just finished installing rockers in my 65 c10 they were not as rusty as yours but I like new metal. here are some pics. I slowly cut away on the first one till I got a good fit. the second one went a lot faster.

[luvmytruck]

more

[luvmytruck]

and more

[luvmytruck]

stitch weld into place then use a quality seam sealer inside and out

[luvmytruck]

in order to get the panels into the tight corners, heat with torch and use a body hammer to tap into the tight spots

[luvmytruck]

some more pics

[luvmytruck]

the first one took a total of three or four hours but the second one only took about two hours

[luvmytruck]

here are more pics not necessarily in order

[luvmytruck]

close ups I also smoothed out the kick panel area while I was working in there

[dracko]

Very nice work. Make it look easy.