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Old 10-26-2003, 01:37 PM   #1
meathead95
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rust preventative?

what do YOU use. not your buddy or someone you have heard of, I want to hear your personal experiences. I am getting ready to coat the underside and the inside of the cab and I would like to know what you guys think is best. why? and how well is it holding up to the out door elements.

corroless from eastwood? (i have some but havent used it yet) anyone else use it yet? comments?

por-15? never had it. any comments?

anything else out their?

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Old 10-26-2003, 06:31 PM   #2
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oh my! nobody has an opinion? whats wrong with you guys today?
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:55 PM   #3
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:57 PM   #4
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I blasted the underside of my cab. I used a Etching primer and then a Epoxy primer then toped it off with a Polyurthain Paint (spell)

Should last for pretty long. If it is a daily driver I would have the truck sprayed with Crown ( a Canadian Company) or some kind of oil spray It works.
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Old 10-26-2003, 07:26 PM   #5
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I havent put Por-15 to the test yet but I have applied it and it looks to be a very good product, I have faith in it. It kinda goes on like stain on wood, the metal seems to aborb the Por-15
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Old 10-26-2003, 08:06 PM   #6
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I have put por 15 on my last 2 cabs but they don't go out in bad weather anymore so I can't say on durabilty. The stuff sprays or brushes equally well. If the difficulty of getting it off your skin is any guage then the stuff should last forever.
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Old 10-26-2003, 09:47 PM   #7
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Not sure how the por15 will do on the underside. I sandblasted my finish mower and applied por15 to it a few years back. It stays outside and the paint is now like chalk and has surface rust coming back. If anyone knows of something that will stand up to the elements let us know. I was thinking about doing the underside of my Suburban with the spray in bedliner stuff.

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Old 10-26-2003, 10:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Solver
If the difficulty of getting it off your skin is any guage then the stuff should last forever.
Amen to that brother! Last time I used it, I accidentally got some on my cheek and neck. Man, that hurt trying to scrub that stuff off. Hurt so bad that I actually just left it on my arms until it wore off naturally.
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:15 AM   #9
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i agree with everyone. the por-15 goes on real nice when hand painted. I used a roller and paint brush (for the hard to reach places). It says to keep it out of sunlight. It deteriorated in UV light.

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Old 10-27-2003, 06:30 AM   #10
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Over here in the UK we know a thing or two about rust. I use a rustproofing wax over whatever paint is on the underside of a car. These waxes (e.g. Waxoyl, Dinitrol) seal out the water, they remain slightly plastic and can self repair small scratches as they retain the ability to "creep" slightly even after they have set. You just spray it on on a nice warm day or keep the tin of wax in a bucket of warm water. It can also be used to rustproof inside box sections such as rocker boxes, you just drill a small hole and using a special probe squirt the wax in. The underside has to be re-done every couple of years ideally as it will eventually wear thin.
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Old 10-27-2003, 08:42 AM   #11
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You have to topcoat POR15 if it is going to be exposed to any sunlight. I even topcoat the underneath of my trucks even though they tell me I don't have to. Seems to be holding up great.

I did my first K20 with DP90 and that is not holding up so well. I never drive my finished trucks in the salt, but if I did the DP90 would be a problem.
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Old 10-27-2003, 09:34 AM   #12
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I POR-15'ed the inside floor pan and around the windshield in my 69. Also the insides of the doors. A small roller (1x3) worked well for putting it on. It has n't been outside yet so no usefull data there.

I did the 60" mower deck on my John Deere 650 tractor last year.
I just did the problem area, around the 3 blade hubs. This area always has grass laying on it. It is a thick steel, but was pitted in several areas from being wet over the last 17 years. I por-15'ed it, then used thier Chassis Coat. The Chassis Coat went on thick. Almost like a under coat. It has held up great. The Chassis coat has not faded. Still black. I don't clean it often at all. So it holds a lot of dust and clippings and water if it gets wet. I'm happy with the results here and would consider doing this to the underside of a cab.

On my 68, I have done the rain gutter but have not yet finished it yet. The 68 sets outside and while the por-15 I used on teh gutter has faded. No rust has shown. The instructions tell you that it must be top coated or it will fade (not UV Protected). So I mind the fading. It faded within 3 weeks or so.

That's my results with it so for....
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:10 AM   #13
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We do the undersides by preping, (sand blast or strip rust) and then apply Rustoleum rusty metal primer, two coats. We then give the floor two coats of Rustoleum semi gloss. The last thing we do is undercoat, (overspray goes on top of undercoat). System works good if coverage is good, but we do touch up the undercoat if needed, (we check yearly).

We don't run our vehicles a lot in the winter, though.

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Old 10-27-2003, 11:34 AM   #14
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I've use the Eastwood Corroless product and like it very much. Had my 72 Stripped and painted 5 years ago and after only 1 year some rust spots started to appear. This was odd since there were no rust areas where they appeared before the body was stripped. I ordered the eastwood product in 16oz. aerosol and told painter after stripping these areas for repaint to give the areas a good coating of Corroless, scuff sand them and recoat with the original basecoat/clearcoat. He did this and that was 4 years ago with 0 repeat of the original problem. Works for me...
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:07 PM   #15
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On my 69 , I sandblasted the frame and underside of the cab ( did not remove the cab because it was in such good shape ) . After blasting I sprayed two medium coats of PPG 1791 Wash primer ( self etching) , then one wet coat of PPG 1990 sealer . I am waiting till I get the cab done to paint the frame and underside ,. because of overspray . The bottom side and frame will be done in PPG acrylic enamel with flattening agent, so it will be more of a satin black , versus gloss . Many ways to do it , but I have had great luck with this system . Just my 2 cents .... jyd
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:27 PM   #16
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thanks for the info guys i guess ill order a gallon of por-15
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:36 PM   #17
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Meathead...Order the POR-15 in smaller containers. It has a limited shelf life, especially once ithas been opened. It also goes a long way. I bought their little six pack cans, that way I don't have to worry about a can going bad as fast.

I didn't do annything on my truck with it (too poor then), but I have done somesmall things since then, like yard tools and like and it holds up real well. It's a bi**h of extra prep though if you wantto paint over it.

There's my $.02
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:49 PM   #18
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About 10 years ago I used a product called "Extend" sold by Permatex (bought it at Wal-Mart). The literature talked about "chemical conversion" and "zinc phosphate" which I think is similar to the POR-15. Anyway, I applied it inside the doors of my F-100, where I couldn't reach with any power tools. Used a wire brush and vacuum, then applied it with a brush. Sprayed in a couple of coats of Rustoleum satin black as a topcoat. I had to get in there a couple of months ago as I dropped a straight egde into the window opening. Everything still looked good.

I would use it again if it is still available.
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:50 PM   #19
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It will take a little over a quart of POR-15 to do the frame. I wouldn't buy a container bigger than a quart. Also, go some disposable gloves to wear. I would sandblast first, the clean. You won't need to etch after sandblasting.
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Old 10-27-2003, 01:54 PM   #20
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ditto on the smaller containers.
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Old 10-27-2003, 03:44 PM   #21
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Has anyone used it over rusty metal like they say to? Just curious. I would think that it would look better if you sandblasted or something.
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Old 10-27-2003, 04:57 PM   #22
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I spray my POR15 so I'm sure that wastes a little more paint, but the finish comes out a bit better. Wear plenty of protective gear if you spray it. I had a respirator on, but no goggles. It ruined a pair of contacts. Wear gloves also cause this stuff will not come off!

They do recommend their etching mix on bare/rusty metal.


Junkyarddog -- I hope you didn't sandblast that frame with the rearend and etc on it. That sand gets everywhere. You will be doing brakes, bearings and etc real soon. Been there done that mistake on a 38 Packard. I cringe when I see people sandblasting a tractor or vehicle intact.
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Old 10-27-2003, 06:46 PM   #23
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it looks better if you sand it down smooth.

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Old 10-27-2003, 10:45 PM   #24
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Don't forget to wear a respirator when applying it, very important!
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:56 PM   #25
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If I were you I would do some research on a new product called Rust bullet. I have seen some ads that claim it to be better than por15. I think it may be less expensive too. Sounds like less prep work.
Anyone use this stuff yet?
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