Not a build thread - more of a 'suggestion' thread...

[Killick]

So a few years ago I picked up this 68 C10. It had a bunch of work professionally done 14 or so years ago, including a chop, a drop, and a shorten. I was enthusiastic about the truck and didn't look at it exceptionally close, but was happy it was low, loud, and kinda fun The motor is an OK SB 350, and it came with a 700R4 trans in the bed. It was installed the first summer, as well as a Flaming River steering column - with the chop there wasn't much room for me, at 6'2", behind the wheel. I also found a Lokar 'Nostalgia' shifter (36' long, looks like an old farm truck shifter with a mushroom cap, but hides a 4 speed auto with lockout)

The truck bottoms out on every single bump. It may have something to do with the drop, which features no springs whatsoever - a simple set of coil-overs between the end of the trailing arms and the frame. I'm thinking a 3" notch would help, but I'm also trying to think what else I could/should do to get this thing to ride a bit better. The potential options so far include:

- Airbag the rear (simple setup with schrader valves) and new shocks. Not sure exactly where it would mount to, but would need a bit of creativity
- Go with a complete bolt-on 4 link replacement. There is already a panhard bar, but the crossmember would take the exhaust, which already gets knocked off a few times each summer.

So - anyone have any suggestions/thoughts/alternate options?

[PanelDeland]

I would look at factory style lowering springs.Barring that,a new set of coil overs might be the best bet.

[AustinScott]

these trucks ride great with just the factory rear spring setup, if I where you depending on how much you want the rear dropped.
I would use a spring/block combo to achieve the drop you are after.
6" drop = 4" springs 2" block (16"+ wheel size)
6" drop = 5" spring , 1" block (15" wheels)
and so on for what ever drop you want.

Few things to keep in mind, 1.5" max block with 15" wheel. (just piece of mind, if you get into some rear tire trouble, or you go off the side of the uneven
road, your U-bolts will not scrape the ground.)

"should" put in notch if you go over 5" total rear drop. You can get away with no notch, but bottoming out here and there will happen.
As for shock, I would use your current coilover location and replace them with some Monroe or KYB shocks.

Just my 2 cents.

Scott

[bk2life]

Originally Posted by Killick

The truck bottoms out on every single bump..

the front or the rear? The rear definitely as the coil overs are too long for the application. You don’t have enough travel in the long body.

Originally Posted by Killick

Airbag the rear (simple setup with schrader valves) and new shocks. Not sure exactly where it would mount to, but would need a bit of creativity

the bag would mount to where the stock coil springs went. Super easy, and schrader valve’d would cost you about 250 to bag the rear.— you’ll need new shocks for the rear thatll bring the price up a bit..

Originally Posted by Killick

Go with a complete bolt-on 4 link replacement. There is already a panhard bar, but the crossmember would take the exhaust, which already gets knocked off a few times each summer.

leave your stock trailing arms…no need to waste time money and effort on a new suspension when yours is perfectly fine.

[Killick]

It's the rear - the front is fine as is. My wife hates riding in the truck as the sudden *bang* and launch on bumps tends to make her scream (funny - she likes roller coasters, so this should be ok too... )

Thanks for the input - it's appreciated. So the plan:
A set of rear bags and new shocks *should* make a substantial improvement. I'll also add the C-notch to provide additional clearance, and all should be good.

For bags there are many height options. Would you aim for a set capable of going to max height, say 10", and run at lower pressure for a standard ride height?

[bk2life]

Originally Posted by Killick

A set of rear bags and new shocks *should* make a substantial improvement. I'll also add the C-notch to provide additional clearance, and all should be good.

For bags there are many height options. Would you aim for a set capable of going to max height, say 10", and run at lower pressure for a standard ride height?

the rear will ride perfect then.

any of the "normal" rear airbags will work. RE7 or RE8 frmo slam speciaties work great. or "2500" pound firestone bags, or really any of the equivalents.

[midniteblues]

it certainly looks like its your coilovers bottoming out you hardly have any travel in the shock. i bet that gets annoying

[Killick]

Thanks BK2 - will get started on 'the plan' and should be in good shape when the roads are clear!
Midniteblues - I'm used to it, but when the wife is on the passenger side most every bump is accompanied by a scream Originally the coilovers were set to full hardness and the rear end bounced everywhere. Now it slams and bottoms (note there are no bump stops) so we try to plan routes based on smoothness of roads (it's nice to have a dream, right?

[Bomp]

Truck looks like it would be a really fun project.
As for suggestions...ah, my build is kinda nutzoid and not sure how far you want to dive in.
Myself, I put a blind folded on and just started runnin'.
Will be checking in on your progress.

[Killick]

Bomp - this is funny - just spent the past 90 minutes reading your build and watching vids (TIG 101 for McMurphy should be on Comedy Centrals 'metalwork edition' Your build is a great read, and you have an awesome shop and a great way of working through the issues!

I've got a bit of a background in metalwork (Navy metalworker on ships 20+ years ago), but I'm pretty rusty now (geddit? My plan is to ease myself back into the fun - ordered a Porterbuilt rear end kit - re-relocates the shocks, puts bags in, and a longer panhard bar. I know I could make those myself, but I'm doing this for the first time in 25 years, and the welder I picked up (a Car-O-Liner autobody unit) is waiting on 220 run to the garage, so I wimped out. The truck is on blocks, need to get the box off, start rewiring with the Painless Wiring christmas present, and then decide what to do with the front (6 or 5 bolt? Bags or leave it?) So many choices, and I wanna do it all now, before the weather gets nice again (in 4 or 5 months...)

Thanks again for the pointers. The next one may be more nutzoid

[Killick]

Gort a call that the Porterbuilt bits are shipping on Monday. We got a few nice days, and decided to get the bed off the truck.

[Andy4639]

That is one of the better setup's you can have for these trucks.

It looks like you need a better spring for the coilovers. The picture say's it all the spring is to weak for the truck weight. U need to find a better spring. The bottom collar is almost as far up as it can go and making the spring tighter. You don't have enough travel in the shock to make it ride good because of this It's either wore out are the wrong spring was used in the first place. Go buy a set of new springs for them and I bet your ride will be fine.U need a spring that can carry the trucks weight though.

[Killick]

Thanks for the info Andy. The shock has been smacking for awhile now and probably well past it's 'best before' date. The new rear suspension should be here shortly, including shocks and air springs for the rear. It's likely overkill for what I need, but kinda fun. The trick is knowing when to stop
Posted via Mobile Device

[HeloCrewChief]

How did you pull your bed off with the cherry pick? I need to do this as well and need some advice on how to go about it.

[Killick]

Originally Posted by HeloCrewChief

How did you pull your bed off with the cherry pick? I need to do this as well and need some advice on how to go about it.

Well, it was a learning experience. What we learned was that the picker wasn't really all that helpful. The way that it came off in the end was using 4 saw horses, each with an 18" block on top, and 2 2x6s at 10 ft long. 2 of us lifted the back enough that a 3rd set of hands could slide the 2x6 through, then lowered the bed gently on the wood. Repeat for front and drive away slowly, watching to ensure you are clear. When the truck was clear we lifted the front and lowered it onto blocks, and then the back. It's resting an inch off the ground and will be tarped up shortly to keep the snow out.

I've been toying with the idea of putting a chain hoist in the workshop - that would have been even faster, and will likely be in place when this goes back on.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Killick]

So found a set of 20" wheels for a super good price today. They have Nokian Hakkapelitta winters on them, and fit on the Grand Cherokee, so put em on today for fun. I should have taken a pic of the centres - there are 10 holes in there, so it will fit on multiple 5 lug rotors. This means I need to switch the C10 from 6 to 5 (more stuff onto the list of things to do), but the wheels will look pretty swish.
The colour doesn't show well in the photo, but it's a hematite finish, kinda pearlescent grey.