1972 Chevy p/u NewType Build

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by shawno72

You ask some good questions my friend. If possible I would do the LS motor for the reliabilty. Having said that I personally like the look of the classic motor under the hood, thats why I stayed with a 350, parts are next to nothing and a set of basic hand tools is all you'll EVER need.

I know I love classic an I could be plenty happy and only have 1,500-2,000 into an overdrive trans and rebuilt motor and be on the road without putting the truck down for too long either.

However retrofitting a new motor to look carb and then installing the harness and relocating the tank to the rear there's a lot of stuff to change and my garage isn't that big I could get my dads shop to do it but it has me Leary to have someone else do the work. Even though they have a lot more LS swaps under their belt than I do.

Heard that LSX's run the smaller motors too but the coil packs are an eye sore as well as those cute little plastic covers so more and more stuff to change there.
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[shawno72]

Keep it O.G. and never look back...

[NewType72]

It's too tempting
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[NewType72]

Starting to lean more and more on the older block and just make it solid

[shawno72]

To me the reliability of an older engine that has been gone through properly will give you great service for a 150,000 miles or better. For me that's like forever when you consider that Lodi is a 2x2 mile square plus like I said earlier they are so simple you can fix any problems on the side of the road if need be. Just my .02
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[NewType72]

Originally Posted by shawno72

To me the reliability of an older engine that has been gone through properly will give you great service for a 150,000 miles or better. For me that's like forever when you consider that Lodi is a 2x2 mile square plus like I said earlier they are so simple you can fix any problems on the side of the road if need be. Just my .02
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I must completely agree I don't believe ill ever put more than 150,000 miles on my truck in my lifetime for how far it drives. And again I'd certainly be going to a dealership if my rocker arm broke on a newer motor instead of getting a replacement and driving within two days again.
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[NewType72]

Glad I'm in a limbo right now just waiting for the cash to start piling up again so I can get my dads spare motor worked over by an "actual" motor builder make sure she's got a solid base and mate it to a rebuilt 700r4 case that ill pick up along the way. Definitely wanting to upgrade to an overdrive tranny so ill make that mileage a bit better. Ill leave the rear end alone for now since its solid may change some fluids throughout the truck next weekend and just start planning the following steps from there pretty excited and hoping to have it all swapped out by the end of may or so well see how it goes
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[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by NewType72

Powder PRIME is an electro magneticly charged adhesive that gets inside where as coating has to initially hit the surface like a spray gun but the elctric particles will stick to any raw surface and is so very much worth it you certainly couldn't POR or DP90 a body or frame for the price they could sandblast andprime it for and with the stuff we got we can go straight into roughing it down and ready for primer essentially. and yes I know I've missed to occasions to get pictures of it in the powder stage hopefully my dad will get one before he scuffs her up too bad haha

Question about this... I get that powerderpriming gets into the nooks and crannies that a paint gun can't, but that also means that if you blasted it, the sand also can't get in there to clean it off; would that prevent the powderprime from sticking? I could see this being a good choice after dipping though. Not sure if you mentioned but how much did they charge you for powderprime?

[shawno72]

Hey Dylan you gonna make it to the C/10 BBQ on April 14th in Stockton at the Stockton swap meet? Gonna be a lot of fun and not to far. Check the California section.
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[NewType72]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Question about this... I get that powerderpriming gets into the nooks and crannies that a paint gun can't, but that also means that if you blasted it, the sand also can't get in there to clean it off; would that prevent the powderprime from sticking? I could see this being a good choice after dipping though. Not sure if you mentioned but how much did they charge you for powderprime?

Very true and valid valid point. Yes if they don't know what they're doing then you'll end up with spots being missed. Luckily they were fairly good to me if anything I would have done all my piece separated next time like the bed was all together when they did it. First round cost me about 500$ ( guy warped my hood after assuring me he's been doing this forever and he's be careful when removing the original paint so that was free ) and he did both my fenders, doors, cowl and rad support I believe. Second trip was the entire bed ( not metal floor ) tailgate, supports, and a new left fender. Ran me 400-500$ that time. Bummed over the hood but we shoulda paint stripped it before hand.
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[NewType72]

Originally Posted by shawno72

Hey Dylan you gonna make it to the C/10 BBQ on April 14th in Stockton at the Stockton swap meet? Gonna be a lot of fun and not to far. Check the California section.
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Yeah I'd love to haven't heard about it yet so ill mark it on my events calendar. What's the California section?
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[Ol Blue K20]

I'd keep the 350 just because I understand it and as Shawn said you can fix it on the side of the road with basic hand tools, no software required!

[NewType72]

Definitely a big upside there
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[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by NewType72

Definitely a big upside there
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That's my opinion but as much as I used mine, it was a definite plus. Parts available everywhere

[NewType72]

Not completely true the napas and oreillys or auto zones are starting to carry less and less of the older stuff. I set down my old bent pushrod and rocker arm and the guy looked t me like I was trying to sell him dirt in a jar from the 1800's he actually asked me what the pushrod is so I responded by leaving the store. And they were supposed to be the hot rod parts store with intakes and cams and what not he couldn't even I.d. A basic necessity I feel ashamed to be apart of the new generation somedays
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[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by NewType72

Not completely true the napas and oreillys or auto zones are starting to carry less and less of the older stuff. I set down my old bent pushrod and rocker arm and the guy looked t me like I was trying to sell him dirt in a jar from the 1800's he actually asked me what the pushrod is so I responded by leaving the store. And they were supposed to be the hot rod parts store with intakes and cams and what not he couldn't even I.d. A basic necessity I feel ashamed to be apart of the new generation somedays
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Well that is true, if it aint in the computor they don't know.

[NewType72]

Pretty much :/
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[NewType72]

Finally fixed this little bugger Sunday afternoon and boy let me tell you that is a PITA to change when you have a serphentine setup on the front of your block took me two hours. So far though I've had a clean drip pan in my garage so I'm stoked about that!

I'm gonna try and be ambitious and change my motor oil this weekend sometime so while I'm under there shell get a nice and thorough scrubbing to make sure I've solved all the leaks. She's starting to come around finally


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[Ol Blue K20]

Well worth your time, at least you won't loose the coolant and overheat it

[NewType72]

No kidding don't need a scare like that.

Was talking on the Facebook group page as well and the topic of fuel filters came up and apparently I have a very dangerous one in being the in-line glass fuel filter sitting above my intake/valve cover area do I need to re think and put a canister style one on? Here's what I have..


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[crakarjax]

Facebook page?!?!?

I have had that same filter on my chevelle for 10 years, below the block actually close to the ground. Never any problems so far. I guess they may have been saying the heat could cause the glass to crack? But it is unlikely to get that hot. I'm not aware that glass filters are any less safe than metal.

[NewType72]

The Facebook has group pages separating the body styles its very social and sometimes quicker response just more accessible I suppose to many but anyway.

I've ran the canister style for 2 1/2 years and have just recently switched to this visible glass filter with no issues so far I just wanted to check if i was picking up anything.

Here's what they showed me and quite frankly I don't sit well with my truck possibly burning down. I have a four core radiator and it keeps my truck quite cool but being all black it does draw some heat so I'm back in forth a bit any personal experiences here with these?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=542661

[Ol Blue K20]

I have seen these blamed for fires, how they break I don't know but I quit using them just to b safe. Do you have the plastic fittings in the ends?
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[NewType72]

Yes mine was the multi-fitting kit. It's not a huge loss if I replace it I kinda liked the visible style but a nice polished out cylinder would look B.A. too course an unburnt to a crisp truck is good as well

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by NewType72

Yes mine was the multi-fitting kit. It's not a huge loss if I replace it I kinda liked the visible style but a nice polished out cylinder would look B.A. too course an unburnt to a crisp truck is good as well

agreed, safety first, you're right the billit ones are nice
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