Rear sway bars

[Dylan86]

anyone running rear sway bars on there 2wd? any pics? does it work well with a drop? thanks

[eldogg]

My crew cab dually has a rear bar stock. I bet you could swap one on a half ton.
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[bigd65]

That's a big bar. I thought about it but then figure, that's to much weight... Just kidding. Someone said you don't want one to thick in the rear. Will affect the handling on turns and such
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[meatwagon83]

yup my one ton has one on it too

[piecesparts]

I put a sway bar on my lowered 84 GMC quite a few years ago. I purchased a Helwig unit that was built for a lowered mid eighties truck. It works very well on the truck. I don't have pictures of it, but it is all bolt on assembly. The only thing that I did different, was to mount the front end bar links to the frame vice using the Helwig brackets, and it looks better than if I had drilled for the brackets and used them.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/sway-b...FQGEnQodm2QAQg

[G8DAN]

I have a belltech 1 1/8 bar on my truck. It was pretty easy to install and definetely tightens up the truck in the corners. It's a good investment.

[74 stepside]

Originally Posted by bigd65

That's a big bar. I thought about it but then figure, that's to much weight... Just kidding. Someone said you don't want one to thick in the rear. Will affect the handling on turns and such
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Isnt that the purpose, to affect the handling? In a good way. Thicker bars are better than thin bars. Thats why the aftermarket makes them thick.

[Firebirdjones]

Was factory on some of the 1 ton dually's. My 79 1 ton single rear wheel didn't, however I added a factory rear bar from a 1 ton and immediately noticed a difference, in a good way.

So I bought another factory 1 ton rear bar setup to add to my 4x4 blazer.

No complaints here. I say if you can find one, go for it. They really aren't all that big in diameter as far as sway bars go.

[N2TRUX]

Here are some pics of the install diagram, and what the factoru components look like.

[Firebirdjones]

Yup

Easy to install, and best of all, looks OEM because it is. None of that cheesy aftermarket u-bolt clamp stuff on the housings.

Sweet part is the oblong holes in the cast iron brackets so it can be adapted to a variety of difference sized axle tubes (since the u-bolts vary in width).

[Firebirdjones]

And here's a pic of what that bar looks like installed...

[83GMCK2500]

I would just like to point out that bar diameter isn't always indicative of how much it resists torsion. A lot of the larger bars are hollow with a significant wall thickness.

Also, for the most part I have observed that the 30/35/3500s are mounter axle to spring with ubolts opening down; whereas 10/15/1500 & 20/25/2500 are the opposite, they open up. Something to consider when looking for the factory bar.

[Firebirdjones]

Yes, and for the 3/4 ton axles (since the U-bolts face the other direction) GM used a different sway bar that had cast iron plates that attached to the axle tubes instead of the spring pack, and then the bar attached to that.

Good luck finding one of those, they are more scarce then the 1 ton bars. I had the 3/4 ton setup at one time I was going to use.

However that isn't always the case. My 72 blazer 4x4 which is basically 1/2 ton suspension, works just fine with the 1 ton rear bar setup.

[Gordonr1973]

Originally Posted by G8DAN

I have a belltech 1 1/8 bar on my truck. It was pretty easy to install and definetely tightens up the truck in the corners. It's a good investment.

x2

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by 74 stepside

Isnt that the purpose, to affect the handling? In a good way. Thicker bars are better than thin bars. Thats why the aftermarket makes them thick.

If your rear bar is to thick then you have drift truck syndrome. A one inch bar in back is plenty good enough.
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[Firebirdjones]

I would much rather have oversteer than understeer. Nothing worse than the feeling of a vehicle that won't turn the direction you want to go, but that's just me.

I'd think that aside from having perfect balance, a performance car driver would probably prefer the same.

I'm guessing most of us here aren't driving pickup trucks in performance road course situtations, I know I don't, I have other cars for that. I simply added the bar for more stability while towing. The OEM bar is cheap and affective, and it fits. It suits the purpose perfectly.

[MyC-Dime]

firebird,
are the holes on the frame already there or do you have to drill them. Im planning on doing this, soon as I find one a the PAP. thanks

[Firebirdjones]

I had to drill mine.

[G8DAN]

With my set up:
1 ton bar up front and the 1 1/8 bar out back its a good balance. I dont have crazy oversteer issues aka "drift truck syndrom". I have taken corners at 70+ and gone through the canyon roads on mulhulland with this setup too.. It has a great balance.

I think for someone looking to make a difference in handling and for someone that pushes their truck either bar will do the job.

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

And here's a pic of what that bar looks like installed...

It looks really great Larry!

[Firebirdjones]

Thanks to you

[LONGHAIR]

Some of the torsional stiffness of that 1" bar is diminished by the length of the arms. They are considerably longer than the typical car bars. The extra length increases the leverage, so it takes more diameter to have the same effect.

In general, the factory designs in a bit of understeer. "Pushing" or "plowing" is a safer condition for the average driver. Simply letting off of the throttle brings the vehicle back in control.

[77BBGMC]

Quote:
Originally Posted by G8DAN
I have a belltech 1 1/8 bar on my truck. It was pretty easy to install and definetely tightens up the truck in the corners. It's a good investment.

Originally Posted by Gordonr1973

x2

X3
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