1968

[Low Elco]

Hot diggity! That looks great!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Bomp]

like

[67cheby]

you just gotta love a good orange !

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by ~Whitey~

Respect! Looks great davis.. You did a good job spraying.. Doesn't look like you need to wait for your bro-in-law after all. :-) Keep at it.

only for the body work. I can spray it myself.

[gdavis]

guys I did not like the way my masking looked so I fixed it up today. Need to catch up with my black and I am done. as far as the cab is concerned. I gave the floor another coat of I-P-15 today. and fixed the line where the orange and the black on the floor meets.repainted the crowl and now there is no place that needs attention. There was a small dent that only showed up when you paint the gloss. I am satified with the results. I will post pictures tomorrow. battery problem with camera

[gdavis]

I started to work on the inside of the cab installing some parts.
First I installed the vent doors. I later found some handles for the vent doors with round black nobs. I am changing them out tomorrow. Then I installed the brake pedal assembly. Which I will need to mount the brake boster and master cly. Then I mounted the sway bar with new blue poly bushings.

[Xeen]

Looking good.
Out of curiosity is your front sway bar 1-1/16 or 1-1/8, the reason I ask is because those bushings look like they are the wrong size for the bar, unless of course you took the pictures before you tightened the bolts down, or if the brackets are just bent out of shape, if thats the case nevermind.

[67c10rustbuket]

Looks real good gdavis!

I think he asked about the motor mount stands because they are mounted in the rear 2 holes. You notice the extra hole in front of the mount? V8 towers go in the front 2 holes and I6 towers go in the rear 2. People use those all the time, works fine you just may have a little trouble working on your distributor (will be close to the firewall). On the positive side it may help with weight distribution (handling) with the engine farther back.

I did notice that your sway bar brackets are installed backwards. the surface that the bushing bolts to should be parallel to the ground. This may cause some of the alignment issue with the bushing that xeen pointed out. Here is a pic of yours along with a pic I borrowed from txfirefighter. The pic from tx is factory riveted piece, see how it is parallel to the ground, that is correct. I am not picking on your work or anything, Just letting you know. you do a fine job. Keep on truckin'

[Xeen]

Good eye Dan, for some reason it escaped me that they were in backwards, but I did notice they were bent out of shape pretty bad.
It probably would be a good idea to straighten them before they are reinstalled for the final time.
I know I had to straighten mine before they were installed.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Looking good.
Out of curiosity is your front sway bar 1-1/16 or 1-1/8, the reason I ask is because those bushings look like they are the wrong size for the bar, unless of course you took the pictures before you tightened the bolts down, or if the brackets are just bent out of shape, if thats the case nevermind.

thanks for the information I see I will be doing more work again again again. but thanks

[gdavis]

[QUOTE=67c10rustbuket;6004813]Looks real good gdavis!

I think he asked about the motor mount stands because they are mounted in the rear 2 holes. You notice the extra hole in front of the mount? V8 towers go in the front 2 holes and I6 towers go in the rear 2. People use those all the time, works fine you just may have a little trouble working on your distributor (will be close to the firewall). On the positive side it may help with weight distribution (handling) with the engine farther back.

I did notice that your sway bar brackets are installed backwards. the surface that the bushing bolts to should be parallel to the ground. This may cause some of the alignment issue with the bushing that xeen pointed out. Here is a pic of yours along with a pic I borrowed from txfirefighter. The pic from tx is factory riveted piece, see how it is parallel to the ground, that is correct. I am not picking on your work or anything, Just letting you know. you do a fine job. Keep on truckin'

Thanks a lot guy for the input and that is why I had so much trouble with the bushings. They still is not right. I guess I will take them off and swat or infronow them. As you stated that the holes on the towers are in the rear holes. well I think I will change that also. I don't want to have to fight the distubtor in the future. Again that is why it sets so far back from the radiator. I put a long nose water pump on the enging but still it sets too far back. I really do thank you for the input and setting me stright. Bryan helps me out a lot and now I am glad I have another eye on things.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Good eye Dan, for some reason it escaped me that they were in backwards, but I did notice they were bent out of shape pretty bad.
It probably would be a good idea to straighten them before they are reinstalled for the final time.
I know I had to straighten mine before they were installed.

thanks a lot for helping me on the sway bar bushings. That is why the bushings seens to be the wrong one's. Again thanks for the thought of the bent brackets. I will strighten them out before I re-install them. I also will change the towers to the front holes. I don't want any problems with the distubtor in the future. You know I even installed a long nose water pump. so the engine would set closer to the radiator. I think I need to get out of the box I am in. Again thank you for everything. Oh by the way what is it called the roof sealer and who seals it.

[gdavis]

Well, I got my brake boaster in and painted today. Alone with the master cly. and por. valve. It needs to dry a few days before I attemp to install it. I painted it the same orange as the body.

[Xeen]

3M makes seam sealer and so do alot of other companies, I would get the kind that flows because it is easier to work with.

[67c10rustbuket]

Hey before you go moving that motor check which stands you have in this link. You may have to buy some if yours are I6. I'm not real sure if they will fit, Maybe if you drill the hole in the crossmember? anyway real good pics with explanation in this link.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442919

[gdavis]

I have the right stands. So I pulled the motor forward the 4 inches. It really wasn't that hard. I took the bolts from the transmission cross member on both side and the bolts in the stand and slid it froward. piece of cake. tomorrow I will put all the bolts back in.

I also turned the sway bar brackets and now they fix right. tomorrow maybe I will paint the scratches I put on the brackets if I have time.

[gdavis]

Hey guysI have a question. What is wrong with this picture??????

Does the brake boaster look right or is there something I did wrong.

[~Whitey~]

Looking good. Good info to know on those brackets for the sway bar.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Hey guysI have a question. What is wrong with this picture??????

Does the brake boaster look right or is there something I did wrong.

Maybe this will help answer your question, this is a stock 72 brake setup.



It looks like to me your bracket/booster assembly is mounted upside down.
Notice how the bracket and master cylinder are angling down not up like on yours and the vacuum booster bung is located towards the engine.

[Mustard72]

Looking good, GDavis. Don't feel bad about the mistakes. I think you're helping lots of us out who could have made the same ones in the near future. You just got there before we did. I took lots of pics when I took mine apart, but probably not of the right stuff.... Plus, the pics only are helpful if you think and/or take the time to look at them when putting it all back together.

Still snowing here, by the way.

[Mustard72]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Hey guysI have a question. What is wrong with this picture??????

Does the brake boaster look right or is there something I did wrong.

What's wrong with the picture? No snow on the ground. Obviously photoshopped....

OK, I'll quit complaining about the weather now...

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by ~Whitey~

Looking good. Good info to know on those brackets for the sway bar.
Posted via Mobile Device

it pays to take plenty of pictures. I would have never guess i would have turned the backwards. But it works a lot better now.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Mustard72

What's wrong with the picture? No snow on the ground. Obviously photoshopped....

OK, I'll quit complaining about the weather now...

yea it was in the 80's when i took the picture. I pulled the motor forward and ran in all kinds of problems. But I am glad I did the motor anyway.

I have to pull the motor complently out of the truck. See I lesten to a guy that lives around here. And the cross member for the old standard has another cross member to support the stell bell houseing. well it hits the transmission pan.

[gdavis]

Guys let me tell you something. stay with your orginal thoughts on things you want to do. I listen to a friend. Don't get me wrong he thought he was advising me right. I too thought it sounded good . I was going to pull the cross member that supports the stell bell houseing for a standard transmission out. But he said that it would give me more support by leaving it in. Sounds like it should. But, when I slid the motor forward the transmission pan hits the cross member. Even if I could figure a way to keep it from hitting the pan by raising the rear of the transmission up, it still would be in the middle of the pan and if you had to pull the pan well good luck on that. So I am pulling the motor back out and removing the cross member. Here we go again more ribbits to grind. And if that was not enough I have to get another drive shaft for now the drive shaft is 4 inch too short. A member said something about the drive shaft being too short for the 350 engine verses the inline six. I see now why it worked. The motor was to far to the rear.
One step forward and three steps backwards. But on the lighter note I fixed the problem with the distubtor now I have room to install the cap. But I am glad this came up this early in the build.

[gdavis]

I will post pictures of the cross member and the motor after I slide it forward. Again I think I should think outside the box or at least investigate the swap I am doing.