quick fuse question... p.s. first post!

[blulitesp]

Hey guys, quick question to start with. First off, glad to be the new owner of a 1970 cst10 and to be a member of this great resource. Now... does anyone know what the terminal just to the right of the one labeled "fuel gauge"? Also just for anybody having electrical issues here's a heads up. When I got my truck I was so taken in by the newly built motor and the sexy cam thump, that I didn't even check the wiring. Once I got home I discovered I had one front signal light and one dash light. Over the last four days I have been researching this issue. With so many things wrong I began to assume switch or ground. Well it turns out to neither. Headlight fix was the dimmer switch, brake lights were disconnected at the firewall, front side markers were thrown off because of the hazard switch being out with no flasher circuits for hazards or turn signals. I assume the hazards and signals don't work because I don't have either flasher circuits installed in the fuse panel. Soooo, point being, sometimes advice from the guys can't fix things for you, only time, patience and a test light. Ill be uploading some pics of two more leads that i can't identify. Thanks alot and glad to be a member now!

[SS Tim]

Lets start things with welcome to the board!

That picture you found is incorrectly labeled, so here is a corrected version from an older post of mine.

The terminal in question is a battery power feed.

If you don't have them the factory service (wire schematics) and overhaul manuals will prove helpful and can be downloaded at this link.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

[luvbowties]

Looks like the pics are just upside down.
S

[blulitesp]

Thanks for the reply. Not to sound stupid but does battery power feed just basically mean a spare power terminal?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by blulitesp

Thanks for the reply. Not to sound stupid but does battery power feed just basically mean a spare power terminal?

Yep, same as "unfused 12 volts".
s

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Looks like the pics are just upside down.
S

More than that. It corrects the radio fuse loocation and shows the difference of a 10A heater OR a 25A fuse if the vehicle has A/C.

[blulitesp]

Along the same lines, if my battery slowly died, but even dead the truck runs fine onced jumped. Would the general consensus be the old crusty voltage regulator for the alternator is the problem?

[SS Tim]

There are a number if things that will do this.
While a regulator not fully charging the battery is a real concern you can't just throw parts and efficently repair a vehicle.
Need to take a good hard look at the wiring and connections.
Have the battery chaged and load tested.
Verify that there are no parasitc loads draining it, like an always hot amp..
Even a good regulator can't make up for a tired alternator it may not be charging to capacity.
Again the service manuals will help you.

[blulitesp]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

There are a number if things that will do this.
While a regulator not fully charging the battery is a real concern you can't just throw parts and efficently repair a vehicle.
Need to take a good hard look at the wiring and connections.
Have the battery chaged and load tested.
Verify that there are no parasitc loads draining it, like an always hot amp..
Even a good regulator can't make up for a tired alternator it may not be charging to capacity.
Again the service manuals will help you.

Got a new regulator and it seems to have fixed it. My volts were fine while running it just got progressively weaker every start. As for now, I think i have actually fixed all my electrical... till i hook the heat and air back up that is... Thanks for all the posts ss.

[SS Tim]

Remember volts is not the same as amps. a load test on the system would be a good idea too.

Don't forget the downloads.

[Tinkermc]

Welcome to the forum and I knew your answer would be quick.

[blulitesp]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Remember volts is not the same as amps. a load test on the system would be a good idea too.

Don't forget the downloads.

Very true. My multimeter of course showed 12 volts prior to the regulator swap but i couldn't get an amp reading. All seems well now. I outway for the next person to buy a pickup that suffers from the PO syndrome.... thanks guys and i will be posting some pics of a mystery lead that still remains under the dash Tomorrow.
Posted via Mobile Device

[70cst]

Hey blulitesp ....

to the forumns and from Ohio