What Did You Do With Your Truck Today ?

[Coach529]

(rolls eyes).......and the lil bugger has taken over another thread........

[Dan in Pasadena]

Lets not let him. He's gone to VW's, so be it. Ignore more questions, I am.

NOW, BACK TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAM:
Stopped off at Home Cheapo and bought a bag of grade 8 nuts, bolts, washers to install my uber-cheap, life saving seat belts (that's a joke!). Probably goin to need some flat stock, 1/8" or 3/16" as plate washers below floor and in the door pillar. Advice from anyone whose done it appreciated.
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[dubie]

You need a plate on the lower mounts that go through the floor but there shouldn't be a need to add anything else to the pillar. You could always use a thicker fender washer under your floor to spread out the load instead of cutting and drilling a hole in some plate. That's what I've done in the past

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Dubie. I want to default to safety so I'm thinking of a 2x2 piece of plate under the floor. I mentioned a plate for the pillar because Juliano's (I think) has a How-To on their site that describes using a spot welded in plate up there. It'd be a LOT easier if I could use say two big fender washers instead. I HOPE that would be safe enough.
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[dubie]

the fender style washers I used are industrial grade so they're 3/16" thick and 3" across with a 5/8" hole in the center. Plenty safe enough. You'd be good to go with a 2x2 plate for sure

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, sounds good.
While at HD I found some 2x2 plate in the Simpson Strong Tie section. Almost bought them but they were $4 apiece and 1/4" thick so I thought they were overkill. Gonna go look for those washers. Any chance you got them at a big box store? Or are we talking industrial supply?
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[mechanixman]

(not trying to be rude)
What do you mean overkill?
If the plates fit, 4 bucks a side ain't bad. And you have the added peace of mind that your seat belts are secured properly.

[Coach529]

I am the kill of overkill. I bought the ones from Juliano's.

[G&R's57GMC]

I wonder if it would be prudent to add a few tack welds to the inner panel and door jam for the shoulder belt mount area.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I am the kill of overkill. I bought the ones from Juliano's.

Me too.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

I wonder if it would be prudent to add a few tack welds to the inner panel and door jam for the shoulder belt mount area.

I'd say so..
Probably something like this:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...d-cold-lap.JPG

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

(not trying to be rude)
What do you mean overkill?
If the plates fit, 4 bucks a side ain't bad. And you have the added peace of mind that your seat belts are secured properly.

You're not being rude.

I just thought 1/4" was too thick and might give me a problem if I tried to spot weld them to sheet metal. It's 3 plates per belt so $24. Cheap I admit but there's a metal supplier I use in LA that has a scrap bin I thought I might check for a piece of 1/8" that would weld better.

The retractor mechanism has to be mounted so the belt comes straight out of the top or the inertia reel doesn't work right. So if I can't just bolt to the door frame I'll have to make a heavy 90 degree L bracket and bolt that to the floor in the corner.
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[Russell Ashley]

Dan, The plates that came with Juliano's belts had the nut welded on to them and the bolts have shoulders so that when you tighten the bolts the metal ends on the belts are still free to swivel so that the belt pulls through them straight. You will need to mount yours like that also as you don't want the belt pulling at an angle against the metal end. Did they come with retractors?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yes on retractors.
They came with the factory bolts on the retractor and the shoulder mount, but no washers or nuts so I bought Grade 8. I didn't get the bolts for the latch sides though. So again Grade 8. I bought 1/2" bolts cause that's the size that fit in the holes.
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[dubie]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok, sounds good.
While at HD I found some 2x2 plate in the Simpson Strong Tie section. Almost bought them but they were $4 apiece and 1/4" thick so I thought they were overkill. Gonna go look for those washers. Any chance you got them at a big box store? Or are we talking industrial supply?
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I'm talking I work under ground in a copper mine and one of the HD mechanics was kind enough to grab me a couple

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh well, for me.
Guess I gotta break out supply catalogs.
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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by dubie

popcorn anyone?

Now you did it Dubie I am wanting popcorn!!

[fabguy]

Guys, guys,

if you need 1/4" plates I can get them for you at work. The guys throw them out by the bag full ( no joke either ). They are 4" x 4" x 1/4" thick with an 11/16" hole in the center. Or if you need something a lil smaller I can punch some out and mail them to ya ( for a few of the guys ), cover the postage of course. I have a bit of 1/8" , 3/16", and 1/4" plate rems laying around at my place. A shear and an iron worker to make it quick. PM me if your interested.
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[Dan in Pasadena]

An extremely generous offer fabguy. Can I take until the weekend to mock up my belts and see what kind of sizes will work for it?

I suspect 2x2, 1/8" or 3/16" plates with smaller holes like 9/16" will work for the floor but not very sure what I'll need to mount the shoulder pivots and IF I'll need 90 degree L brackets to mount the retractors.

[Dodger]

Took the old 80s looking door trim off, sanded, painted and added new door cards.

Just need to throw some speakers into the ugly holes that a PO cut.

Before:




After:





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[lowdownstar]

Originally Posted by fabguy

Guys, guys,

if you need 1/4" plates I can get them for you at work. The guys throw them out by the bag full ( no joke either ). They are 4" x 4" x 1/4" thick with an 11/16" hole in the center. Or if you need something a lil smaller I can punch some out and mail them to ya ( for a few of the guys ), cover the postage of course. I have a bit of 1/8" , 3/16", and 1/4" plate rems laying around at my place. A shear and an iron worker to make it quick. PM me if your interested.
Posted via telepathy.
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wow that is very nice of you for doing that for others. this place and it's people rock in my book!


Ray

[fabguy]

Your welcome
This membership has given me great ideas, inspiration, things to be cautious of, and most of all re-motivation to complete my truck and suburban so I wanted to give a little something back.

Daninpasadena, not a problem, just let me know as I will probably be there most of this weekend working on my truck as I am getting very close to finishing enough to bring it home.
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[fabguy]

Ok so yesterday I drilled through the firewall behind the fenderwell and pulled my front and rear sections of wiring through, also mounted my fuse block. Trying to hide the wiring is a bit of a challenge on this truck. Still need to figure out how to run my engine wiring as I want it hiden as much as possible, good thing EZ Wiring sends these looms out with alot of extra length.
ooppss, gotta go as I might be late for work.
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[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by fabguy

Ok so yesterday I drilled through the firewall behind the fenderwell and pulled my front and rear sections of wiring through, also mounted my fuse block. Trying to hide the wiring is a bit of a challenge on this truck. Still need to figure out how to run my engine wiring as I want it hiden as much as possible, good thing EZ Wiring sends these looms out with alot of extra length.
ooppss, gotta go as I might be late for work.
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I was in the same boat. My uncle is an electrician and is wiring the truck. I mentioned the same thing to him, I wanted to really hide the wiring as much as possible.

Except for the main connector (which I can disconnect to remove the whole cab on the inner fender) everything is very well ran and hidden. If you would like I can take some photos to get you some ideas.

I am also running EZ and have nothing, but great things to say about them

[fabguy]

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

I was in the same boat. My uncle is an electrician and is wiring the truck. I mentioned the same thing to him, I wanted to really hide the wiring as much as possible.

Except for the main connector (which I can disconnect to remove the whole cab on the inner fender) everything is very well ran and hidden. If you would like I can take some photos to get you some ideas.

I am also running EZ and have nothing, but great things to say about them

Yes thank you, pictures would be great. I like the idea of a connector at the firewall incase I ever have to pull the front end off
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