lowering spring vs factory spring

[Claytona08]

So I installed a 5" lowering kit on my truck and only got approx 3.5" of drop. I used DJM 3" control arm and the 2" lowering springs. My question is should the springs be 2" shorter than the factory springs?
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[68Timber]

Were the original springs sagging?

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Were the original springs sagging?

I took measurements prior to installing the kit and the height was the same as the rear. Approx. 18.5" from the center of the wheel to the fender. After I installed the 3" control arm and 2" lowering spring I only got approx 3.5" of drop which makes me think I didn't get 2" lowering springs.
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[andrewmp6]

This is kinda common a lot of these trucks have saggy springs so lowering it don't go as low as you think it should.

[SCOTI]

Drop amounts are typically calculated/measured vs a stock height vehicle. Not all stock height vehicles are the same since fresh vs well used springs can yield different heights.

Sounds like your original springs were slightly sagging so you already had some drop.

[cory d]

hmmmm. drop coils and drop LCA's. that puts your lower ball joint really high.

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Drop amounts are typically calculated/measured vs a stock height vehicle. Not all stock height vehicles are the same since fresh vs well used springs can yield different heights.

Sounds like your original springs were slightly sagging so you already had some drop.

Ahhh, this makes sense.
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[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by cory d

hmmmm. drop coils and drop LCA's. that puts your lower ball joint really high.

What do you mean? The lower ball joint connects to the brake caliper so it should stay in the same location right?
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[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Claytona08

What do you mean? The lower ball joint connects to the brake caliper so it should stay in the same location right?
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What he means,... you have alot hanging below the lower balljoint.
"Drop Pocket" style a-arms were an alternative to using drop spindles but create "scrubline" issues in the process.
(they hang below the rim)
With 15" or 16" wheels,... in the event of a flat tire,... you could be riding on the a-arm instead of having braking control of the truck, with the wheel.

EDIT:
This is the extreme of what I'm talking about,... because this truck has drop spindles and drop pockt style a-arms.
Which is a big no-no.

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by lolife99

What he means,... you have alot hanging below the lower balljoint.
"Drop Pocket" style a-arms were an alternative to using drop spindles but create "scrubline" issues in the process.
(they hang below the rim)
With 15" or 16" wheels,... in the event of a flat tire,... you could be riding on the a-arm instead of having braking control of the truck, with the wheel.

Oh ok, that makes sense. Will this still be an issue with 20" rims?
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[lolife99]

20" wheels will lessen the effect,... but you never know when the 15's will have to go back on.

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by lolife99

20" wheels will lessen the effect,... but you never know when the 15's will have to go back on.

I wish DJM would have told me this! They only told me the good......not the bad
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[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Claytona08

I wish DJM would have told me this! They only told me the good......not the bad
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There job is to sell a-arms.
But it's OLD technology for the 63-87 C10 trucks, in my opinion.
Spindles and springs are a better choice.
Again,... my opinion.

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by lolife99

There job is to sell a-arms.
But it's OLD technology for the 63-87 C10 trucks, in my opinion.
Spindles and springs are a better choice.
Again,... my opinion.

They offer the spindles to so I called and they made me believe the control arm is a better option. Hopefully I won't regret it.
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[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Claytona08

They offer the spindles to so I called and they made me believe the control arm is a better option. Hopefully I won't regret it.

Keep the bushings and balljoints greased.
But there is tons of info in the internet about crappy balljoints used by DJM.
(search google)
The good thing is they can be replaced with quality MOOG balljoints.
But that's not really why you bought new a-arms,...

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Keep the bushings and balljoints greased.
But there is tons of info in the internet about crappy balljoints used by DJM.
(search google)
The good thing is they can be replaced with quality MOOG balljoints.
But that's not really why you bought new a-arms,...

Haha, thanks for the info. Nice truck in your avatar btw
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[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by lolife99

What he means,... you have alot hanging below the lower balljoint.
"Drop Pocket" style a-arms were an alternative to using drop spindles but create "scrubline" issues in the process.
(they hang below the rim)
With 15" or 16" wheels,... in the event of a flat tire,... you could be riding on the a-arm instead of having braking control of the truck, with the wheel.

Well I pulled the lowering springs yesterday and compared it to the factory spring and it is shorter. I want the front of the truck a little lower but I'm afraid to cut the lowering springs because of the above mentioned problem. Also the bump stop is already fairly close to the upper coil pocket (whatever you call it)Will the lowering springs settle some? If so approx how much? I purchased my rims and tires so that could give me the rake that I'm wanting. My tires are 255-40-20 front and 295-40-20 rear. Any suggestions?
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P.S. I rotated the spring so the end of the lowering spring sits in the control arm keeper.
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[Desert1957]

Truck looks great!

You realize uninstalled spring height means nothing , its all about " Load Rate " , which you can't tell buy looking at the springs.

An increase in coil diameter can be a huge difference on installation.

Just for example my C20 front springs looked identical side by side (old vs new) but after installation it sat 1.5 inch higher. Which is what I wanted.

IMO drive it for awhile let it settle in, then re measure.

Desert

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

Truck looks great!

You realize uninstalled spring height means nothing , its all about " Load Rate " , which you can't tell buy looking at the springs.

An increase in coil diameter can be a huge difference on installation.

Just for example my C20 front springs looked identical side by side (old vs new) but after installation it sat 1.5 inch higher. Which is what I wanted.

IMO drive it for awhile let it settle in, then re measure.

Desert

Yeah I'm thinking they should settle over time. Thanks!
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[Sodell]

You might try cutting one spring from the stock and see what that yields, I got 1 1/2 out of that, but not sure what the difference in ride would be. You would also probably have to get a realignment.

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by Sodell

You might try cutting one spring from the stock and see what that yields, I got 1 1/2 out of that, but not sure what the difference in ride would be. You would also probably have to get a realignment.

Welllll, I kinda cut one an inch shorter than my lowering springs (approx. 2 or 3 coils off) and it sat my truck all the way down on the bump stop.....
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