New area of years

[low&slow]

Normally I post in the 67-72 area, but I got a hold of a 1957 chevy rear end. The guy told me it came out off a station wagon (yes I know it's a car rear end). He cut the mounts off of it, so therefor I have a start to maybe putting it in my truck. Anyways, my questions are the following:

1. How do you get the drum covers off? I have one side almost off, but it won't come off any further.

2. How durable are these rear ends? (I'm building a drag truck with approx. 600 hp/780 torque to the crank) Just looking for something temp. to find or buy a built 9 inch)

3. Is it possible to build this year of rear end for drag racing purposes?

4. If so for number 3, can I use the core of the rear end, or is the tubing too thin?

All help is appreciated. If I can't use this rear end for my build, it would still be nice to know how to take it apart so I can get familiar with how to take apart a rear end properly and to put one back together.

Also, the guy also told me that the guy he got it from welded the gears to make a posi track. The guy I got it from said he had it in his old truck ('32 chevy truck) prior to giving it to me and the rear end worked fine. He said its been sitting for quite some time and may or may not be seized. Anyways, like I said, All help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[OrrieG]

1. did you back off the adjusters so the shoes retract? If so and it is still hard there is probably an un-worn ring that is catching on the shoes. They do make drum pullers, oriellys might even rent them. Also, sometime the center hole gets rusted to the axle nub. A little pb blaster, etc and some heat will usually break it loose. On my truck it took multiple attempts over 6 months to get it off.
2. I abused many a 57 rear end in the 60's, but not with 600 HP, my biggest engine was a 365 hp 327 with holley carb and headers. When the Chevy rear blew (snapped the pinion) I upgraded to an Olds rearend. Nice thing about the 57 types is the interchangeable pumpkin, one reason the ford 9" is so well liked. I kept one around for everyday use (3.54 gearing) and one for racing (4.56 gearing).
3. Lots of guys use them in the stock classes, but again not with 600 HP engines. You could build it up with aftermarket gears, bearing, posi unit, axles, etc. but would probably match the cost of a newer aftermarket unit that is even stronger.

[Rude Dude]

55-64 rears are basically all the same, some are posi units used behind big and small block engines and vettes. The dollar issue is what you have to look at if you want to beef it up for drag racing, sometimes cheaper to get a rear end that set up for racing like a Nine inch out a ford. Just because it is free doesnt always add up if your racing.

[Speedbumpauto]

You'll be going down a hard road just because the rear was free. Leave it to a "true" restorer. Your best choices are a 12 bolt GM and the 9 inch Ford. You almost have to buy the 12 bolt aftermarket anymore but 9 inchers are still at the "pick and pull" if you look. If you're not whistling a merry 50's tune and will really get near 600HP, the 9 is your best choice for economy and durability. Drop out center, easy to narrow and lots of parts available for decent prices. I know lots of folks will reply they had a 10 bolt that survived a blown BBC, but I'm estimating my street/strip combo at 550 HP and the 9 inch was a no brainer. Mosier axles and a Detroit Locker from E Bay.

[mr48chev]

I'm with Rude Dude and Speedbump auto. Spring for a 9 inch or a 12 bolt. The 9 inch being more practical for drag racing as you can drop the pumpkin out to swap in another one for a gear change or for repairs.
There is a reason that a lot of drag racers run nine inch Ford rear ends and the main one is that they are stout and hold up. The second one is that they have a huge aftermarket supply chain with tons of stuff available for them.
The welded spiders in the 57 rear end sound like dirt track mods but that rear end is still . a nice one for someone wanting to build a mild street driven AD truck or mild engine hot rod like a T bucket.

Dutchman in Portland can cut down a 9 inch housing and cut down the axles if need be.
http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/ I'm taking my 9 inch for my Model A down to them in a few months to have narrowed It's overkill in my case but I'll never have to worry about having problems with the rear end on road trips.

[low&slow]

Thanks for the advice guys. I know a 9 inch is a no brainer when it comes to high hp/trqe racing. I currently have a 12 bolt in my truck now, but is not a posi. Also my rear end is 62 3/8'' wide from wheel mount to wheel mount and the 57 chevy rear end is 58 inches wide from wheel mount to wheel mount which gives me another 2 inches on each side for a bit fatter tire. Question is, If the 57 rear end turns out to spin and is a (welded) posi, How long will it hold up before it breaks compared to my stock 12 bolt?
I'm just looking for something temporary till I get a hold of a 9 inch.

[OrrieG]

not long on the street, you will probably break an axle or get forced off the road. works on dirt because they are usually pretty squirrel y anyway. don't know if sanctioned drag strips allow them.
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[1project2many]

I started my pro career in a shop that specialized in rear axles. Neat one day to work on a '57 with a big block and a stock rear housing. But we were pulling the axle for a 9". After spending lots of money on strongest parts he could buy, the owner gave up when the RH tube decided to bend. It actually put a ripple in the floorboards! I don't think that BBC was 600 horse, either. Maybe about 425-450 but the car was set up decently and hooked fairly well.

I'd go 9" and never look back.

Then again, I put a 455 Buick into a '79 Monte and kept the stock 7.5" rear axle for almost seven years. The axle shafts finally wore through at the bearings so I bought an 8.5" from a 442. The trick though was that the stock rear used a 2.26" rear gear and I never tried to launch hard. With that gear ratio it was much harder to apply enough torque to break parts. So if you can drive easily, it might last. But if you fall off the wagon even once...

[low&slow]

Taking into consideration of what you all have said, I'd guess that my best bet for now would be to keep my non-posi 12 bolt in the truck until I can get the cash to buy a 9 inch whether it be built or from a junk yard. That being said, I guess I will just tear the 57 one apart and play with it, then later scrap it once I get tired of it being in the bed of my DD.

Aside from that, what's a price range for having a 9 inch built to handle over 1500 fptq/hp? I put a high number in because once (if ever) I get done building my motor, I'm hoping to push at least 1400 fptq which will be about 1200-1300 hp.

Also, is it possible to have a 9 inch built with 6 lug rotors for a chevy bolt pattern?

[G&R's57GMC]

For answers to all your 9" questions call Currie http://www.currieenterprises.com They will help you in your quest.
Oh and I think they can do a six lug also. As for "Posi" they have lots of options available.

BTW I've got a Currie 9" under my '57.

[OrrieG]

Wouldn't scrap it, someone should be able to use it for parts or would buy it for the scrap value unless its been totally FUBARed by welding.

[Speedbumpauto]

Assuming it's going to be a blown 540 or so to get those numbers. I'm partial to Mosier for the budget concious racer but I used Mark Williams stuff in my S/G door car. Their axles are works of art, but you'll need your wallet. You'll need a big bearing housing(harder to find at the pic and pull) to fit a 35 to 40 spline axle and you'll need the aftermarket big bearing case(3.250") for the same reason and you'll need a brace welded on the housing. By the time you get the datona pinion support and the large spline ring and pinion gear set and the spool, you'll be north of $3K and that's if you're careful. There's no "budget" in those kind of HP/torque numbers and every attempt to save will probably end up biting you in the butt when it fails.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by low&slow

Taking into consideration of what you all have said, I'd guess that my best bet for now would be to keep my non-posi 12 bolt in the truck until I can get the cash to buy a 9 inch whether it be built or from a junk yard.

Can I just ask why you don't like the 12 bolt? If you're going to spend the cash for a 9 inch, why not by a new posi unit or a locker for the 12 bolt? That way, less frustration, less time, and (most importantly) less money.

[low&slow]

G&R's57GMC - Thanks for the info. I'll defiantly check it out.

OrrieG - I'll defiantly be taking it apart to make sure it can still be usable for someone else. I'll probably post it on CL for a couple weeks and if I don't get any bites, then I'll scrap it.

Speedbumpauto - Thanks for the detailed info of what I'll need. I'll have to jot what all you said into my handy dandy notebook. Assuming you know a lot about racing and what to run, I'm going to send you a PM with other questions I have that deal with racing and how to go about buying and installing.

mechanixman - I have thought about that many times, but I'm not sure it will handle my numbers with slicks once I get the truck to hook the way I want it too with getting a posi. I know it will be a lot of work, but I'm wanting to run a wheelie bar and to be able to pull the front end off the ground. I don't have a problem with a posi 12 bolt as I had one in my last 69 chevy with a freshened up 454 and worked just fine for me, but I wasn't racing it. I want to get something that won't break for a few years and that can handle my current power as well as future power until I absolutely need to get a beefier rear end such as the 9 inch that speedbumpauto is talking about.