Typical body repair cost

[Dlm11]

Hi I'm getting prepared to buy a 71-72 c10 swb. So I can try to figure an offer price what are the typical cost to have rockers put in and can corners fixed. Also other than those two spots what are some issues I should be on the lookout for. Thanks for any feedback I'm in South Carolina Btw.
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[john]

Other common places that rust are the cab floor, kick panels and floor supports. Check above the windshield also. Welcome to the board.

[ole dollor]

another welcome from Texas, might also look at the right front fender under the battery and inner fender...good luck on your new truck.

[Dlm11]

Thank y'all. Growing up there's no telling how many of those trucks I walked by rusting in a field. Is there any area were you would just say that's going to be way to much money to repair.
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[67ctener]

The most common issues I have seen are the typical inner outer rocker, cab corners, pans, and kick panels. But then also the more harder things to fix like the roofs, drip rail area and cowls. I was quoted 3500 for inner outers, cab corners and some floor patch. That was getting it to roll into a paint booth. Way to much for me so decided it's time for me to learn
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[Tinkermc]

welcome to the forum

[54belair]

When I bought my truck I knew it needed outer rockers. A friend of mine who does resto work for a living quoted me $250 labor for outer rockers (I had the rockers).
Quickly we found out that it needed inner rockers as well---and the lower fender extensions (that you cant see until you cut off the rockers), then we found weak spots in several places in the toe board---next, we found the kick panel area on both sides was bad. Then it got worse!!! Since we were getting into a lot of time, he quoted me a reduced rate of $40. an hour. After we were into the job for over $800. labor--then we found the rust high on the cowl which had been well covered up by some previous owner-----Since I already had a bunch into the repair--we couldnt stop there, so I ended up buying a doner cab and we cut out both A posts (hinge posts) and welded them in. I ended up with 68 hours of his labor---plus some assistance from me--- So, $40. an hour for 68 hours--------a real budget buster, but it all had to be done.

The bottom line is--- Do A LOT of investigation on the cab before you start ANY repairs. In my case, I had over 3K in labor and material. I could have driven to Arizone and picked up a rust free(?) cab for around 1K--trip and all!!!
REMEMBER: rust is like an ice berg----at least 75% of it is hidden.

[JointTech]

hopefully you know somebody that will even touch it unless you plan on doing it yourself. Most body shops wouldnt touch it with a 10ft pole. The resto shops wont quote a price because as soon as you sand it you find more to cut and weld. So its either full blown resto or nothing for them.
better to find a friend that knows how to weld and watch some youtubes on it. Unless its going to be a showtruck and you have deep pockets.

[54belair]

Originally Posted by JointTech

hopefully you know somebody that will even touch it unless you plan on doing it yourself. Most body shops wouldnt touch it with a 10ft pole. The resto shops wont quote a price because as soon as you sand it you find more to cut and weld. So its either full blown resto or nothing for them.
better to find a friend that knows how to weld and watch some youtubes on it. Unless its going to be a showtruck and you have deep pockets.

Youre correct on that. Ive helped my friend occasionally when he's in a bind----he looses a lot of business because he wont give a price for a job. On resto work, its strictly by the hour. He is a very honest guy, more so than I would prob. be----but people who come to him because of his good rep. are still put off cause its by the hour only---Ive heard eople grumble about "signing a blank check".
If you do one resto (and do it right), its amazing how many hours it takes.

I have near 350 hours in my build so far (plus his 68 hours) and my truck is still on the rotissary--about 20 hours labor away from paint----then prob. 75 to 100 hours or reassembly, adjustment, detail work, etc.

I am over the hump on cost (I hope), but Im still around 3.5K (material) away from a running, driving truck.

[Special-Ed]

Originally Posted by 54belair

I have near 350 hours in my build so far (plus his 68 hours) and my truck is still on the rotissary--about 20 hours labor away from paint----then prob. 75 to 100 hours or reassembly, adjustment, detail work, etc.

I am over the hump on cost (I hope), but Im still around 3.5K (material) away from a running, driving truck.

i am curious as to what is your skill level... and your commitment to time. i noticed you are retired and are on island time.

[Dlm11]

I've been bit by the rust bug before on a 64 nova. And had a body shop screw me on a 69 camaro. I understand them not quoting a true price just curios as to what people are paying. There's not a ton of resto shops around here. I am a welder and gas turbine mech but I'm not sure of my self when it comes to aligning body panels. Thanks for the feedback
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[Dlm11]

I need to get on the ball though. I just traded a silverado in for an f-150 cause I had nothing but problems with it and GM as a company has fallen way down. It's the first non GM product I've ever owned so I need some old chevy in the garage.
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[54belair]

Originally Posted by Special-Ed

i am curious as to what is your skill level... and your commitment to time. i noticed you are retired and are on island time.

Well, my committment to time prob. comes from the fact that Im a retired engineer, my whole career was about getting a project of one kind or another finished on time. (and within a budget). Neither of which Ive done on this truck! My skill level--that depends on who you compare me too!! I do ok usually, I have restored a few cars down thru the years, but this is my first truck.
I am retired--but enjoying a new career path totally away from engineering----and I get to spend quite a bit of time with my project truck. Island time??? whats that?

[Special-Ed]

Originally Posted by 54belair

Well, my committment to time prob. comes from the fact that Im a retired engineer, my whole career was about getting a project of one kind or another finished on time. (and within a budget). Neither of which Ive done on this truck! My skill level--that depends on who you compare me too!! I do ok usually, I have restored a few cars down thru the years, but this is my first truck.
I am retired--but enjoying a new career path totally away from engineering----and I get to spend quite a bit of time with my project truck. Island time??? whats that?

island time... when you get around to it =) ...retirement, no big rush

i too have an engineering degree. i have 1 ground up of a 55 chevy restoration. i have 3 builds to go fast in a straight line. and multiple builds from ground up of cars that go fast and only turn left. all were for someone else to drive(my brother in laws) and spent some time at a big 3 auto manufacturer as an engineer...

been away from motor sports and cars profesionally for a long while now(i still tinker with the family vehicles that are out of warranty. now i have the bug again...

and i'm just trying to get a handle on my build time for a ground up of a 2 wheel drive k5 blazer thats anything but factory.

i have my budget nailed down now i am just trying to figure out my time. and build out options... like full functioning anti lock brakes and power heated seats with memory etc...

and when i am done with the blazer... i am building a boat from blue prints for daily useage as well... think old chris-craft barrel backs

now back to original topic...

i have found body shops to be anywhere between 80-140 per hour for our kind of work(needs) at the retail level.

[54belair]

Dlm11-- I dont mean this to be a smart a$$ remark but, body work and panel alignment isnt rocket science----it just takes a lot of time and patience--especially the first time you do it. Take your time, look at the way old panels fit, think about what you need to do, then jump in and pray for the best!! If you are a welder, you have one leg up on most of us. I can weld, but Im far from a welder.
Time and Patience,, Time and Patience----If you need some help or another opinion--this forum is a terrific place. There are several guys on here that Know their stuff and will gladly help if they can. (I ask a lot of questions!)
The main thing about your build----enjoy the work and take pride in your finished project.


Special-Ed---
island time-----I like that, Im surprised Ive never heard of it before!
I do have a goal on my build though--complete and ready for the street rod nats. next memorial day.

[19673ontree]

I worked on southrust VA rustbuckets my whole life and I did not know it at the time but I learned the art of bodywork in doing this LOL , I say look for a truck that needs just outer rockers corners and front fender patch that about the best you can do , that's what I did when I found my 67 it was all original has original paint so you could see what was needed , that yr I fixed it I just tore it apart put outer rockers corners one front fender patch and then painted it seems like it took me about 3 months ? just rockers can be done in just a few days its not that bad ,, good luck

[19673ontree]

ohh yea the panel fit on these trucks was not great from the factory I aligned all the panels on mine it was not fun !

[asolde]

I have a 69 Blazer and it needs the inner kick panels repaired due to rust at the bottom of them. I went to Wes at classicheartbeat and purchased all of my repair parts. Wes help me with all the parts I would need for this repair.

I got all the parts together and started looking for a body shop that I felt comfortable with doing the repairs. I found a guy to do my repair work (Dave Flint at Pristine custom paint and body shop) Word of mouth by fellow gearheads is how I found him. Any ways his standard price is $49 an hour

So far I am happy with the work on the tare down and open up. Looks like the inner kick panel,inner rockers with 4" floor extensions ,the pillar patch, and the outer rocker panels on both sides. The drivers side is the worst of the two sides.

I don't have the talent to do this kind of work. I don't have the tools to this work. So I decided to work overtime at my current job to pay for the body shop to do it for me. I am a nervous wreak letting someone else do the work but I have no choice and I want the rust gone.

[gottalottac20]

I am in the market for a rust free cab... new york area...BEFORE YOU SAY IT.. i know its going to be almost impossible haha

[Dlm11]

54belair I didn't take it that way. I actually appreciate y'all pushing more in the DIY direction. The group on the forum looks like a good one and seems like y'all are willing to help. Between y'all and YouTube I might be able to get something done. Now I have to find a truck.
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[54belair]

Well yea, rust free cabs---they are going to be someone elses project---and thats a good place to look.

My advice--to anyone--would be: dont get in a hurry for a truck--look long and hard, My opinion is that the very best cab possible should be the number 1 priority. Fenders you can find and buy, beds can be found---cabs are the PIA! With that said--I did what Im preaching----and still ended up with alot of body work---and at the time last year, I opted to have my friend do it. Im happy with his work, but the $3K really really hurt.

If you already have a truck that needs a lot of cab work-----look for a replacement first. Usually you can find a bare, good cab for a thousand or less-----body work will be more than that!!

[Dlm11]

Well I've got a few leads nothing shorter than a four hour drive. Nows time to be patient and see what pans out. Everything from a bunch of parts and what's said and looks like at least from pictures a rust free cab and a bunch of parts to put it together to one that looks like it was just pulled out of a field to a truck that's been a long restoration that needs completed. So I guess I'll see which one has the most bang for the buck
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[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by Dlm11

Well I've got a few leads nothing shorter than a four hour drive. Nows time to be patient and see what pans out. Everything from a bunch of parts and what's said and looks like at least from pictures a rust free cab and a bunch of parts to put it together to one that looks like it was just pulled out of a field to a truck that's been a long restoration that needs completed. So I guess I'll see which one has the most bang for the buck
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Remember if someone gives you a great cheap price its cheap for a reason. You get what you pay for. I know that body work seems expensive, but if you don't a have welder already and no tools and plan on only doing body repair one time in your life then paying someone else to do it makes perfect sense. I don't know if you lack space or a garage to work in, but if you want to have truck stories about how you fixed your rust yourself and didn't have a clue about welding until your 4th bottle of gas and 3 roll of wire later then do it yourself. A good gas welder is going to run 500-600.00 dollars, small gas bottle, gas regulator, welding helmet, vice grips for body repair, clamps, welding wire, gloves, body hammers and dollies, sanding disc, grinder, etc. Getting started welding cost a lot, but it sure feels good knowing you did the repairs yourself.
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[Dlm11]

SD I have the tools and a fairly good size garage when it's cleaned out (at least it looked that way when we bought it hasn't been clean since) I want to do most of the work but I don't want a ton of rot repair if I can help it. Y'all bought got me talked into doing rockers myself. If push comes to shove I start them and if I can't finish then I take it to somebody who can. I'm looking now trying to find the best body for the most reasonable amount of money. They seem to be pretty spread out on the southeast so I am going to have to pick a couple to go look at
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[Dlm11]

But yeah SD I agree part of it is the story of the build I want something for my kids to be a part of. Like I told my wife new cars and trucks have no soul. There all the same
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