Canyon carving?

[Codez67Chevy]

So I'm going to make my truck a daily driver. From driving to work, to going camping. I love taking canyon drives so I want it to carve through the canyons with no problems. Anyone got any tips on what I could do?

Suspension plans as far as now are....

3/4 coil drop
drop shocks
new sway bars front and back
new panhard bar

and that's it so far............

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I would move the lower A-arm forward in relation to the upper A-arm 1 inch. This gives you better camber gain.

Get a 1 ton swap bar, and use poly graphite bushings.

If you want to cut canyons try getting some 17's, and run SUV tires. A 255/50/17 will be a great all around tires. Just depends on how wide or tall you can accommodate.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

I would move the lower A-arm forward in relation to the upper A-arm 1 inch. This gives you better camber gain.

Get a 1 ton swap bar, and use poly graphite bushings.

If you want to cut canyons try getting some 17's, and run SUV tires. A 255/50/17 will be a great all around tires. Just depends on how wide or tall you can accommodate.

Moving the lower arm forward yields better caster. Moving the upper down slightly vs. the lower yields the different camber curve.

[Custom 68]

I just went thru all this. Here is my take on it as I just got it going and aligned this weekend.
First off I tried to move my lower a-arm forward and I could only move it forward 3/8 of an inch due to interference with the arm to the frame. So I am not sure how you can move it any more forward. I will do a search because I know many folks have recommended this. It may be different on different years but mine is a 68.
I also lowered my upper a-arm mounts 1/2 inch. I know that did help on my camber gain. I will get this on an autocross track and see the results.
good luck and if anybody has any other info on moving the lower a-arm that would be great.
Thanks
Dave

[bdiamond]

Originally Posted by Custom 68

First off I tried to move my lower a-arm forward and I could only move it forward 3/8 of an inch due to interference with the arm to the frame. So I am not sure how you can move it any more forward.

On my 82 blazer I had not notch the crossmember at the ubolts. I cut the vertical lip off and ground just a hair off the horizontal part. I moved mine 3/4", I could have gone a hair more but already had drilled the shafts. I can send pictures if you need it.

[66 C10 383]

Originally Posted by Custom 68

First off I tried to move my lower a-arm forward and I could only move it forward 3/8 of an inch due to interference with the arm to the frame. So I am not sure how you can move it any more forward.

I also lowered my upper a-arm mounts 1/2 inch. I know that did help on my camber gain. I will get this on an autocross track and see the results.
good luck and if anybody has any other info on moving the lower a-arm that would be great.
Thanks
Dave

Here's the "Caster Mod" where he moves his LCA forward .75".

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ght=caster+mod

I've searched and can't find any good info on how the lower the UCA.

[mongoose]

do you need to? these aren't f bodies?

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by mongoose

do you need to? these aren't f bodies?

Do we need 500hp in a family sedan? Haha

I have mine 3/4 -1" forward I can't remember but I did some cutting of the crossmember. Have about 7.5* castor. Have qa1 adjustable ball joints so I can tailor camber gain and roll center
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[mongoose]

yes... and 500 hp wagons even more..


no, the reason i said that was that f bodies etc that people do the guldstrand mod to are cuz of the short spindle that they come with.. trucks have bigger spindles.. so im not sure that lowering the uca will net the same type of performance gain ie a better camber curve as an fbody gets doing it...

but i could be wrong i've never measured it nor seem any writing on the subject thus the question.

[cory d]

my buddy did 1/2" with out trimming the cross member and with 2 coils cut on the one ton coils. the arms only hit the cross member when sagged all the way down but thats not an issue. no coil bind that i have seen. or i guess i should say coil rubbing on the edges of the pockets