69 GMC "Ol' Blue"

[mud.man.rj]

Some times decisions take care of themselves. Still only a bolt if you work slow at it can be fixed...or pay.

[mjensen]

I'm really wanting to get the bolt out. I don't want to spend the money on the motor right now. I need to save money for the drivelines.

[mud.man.rj]

I have drilled many bolts out, but is slow precise work, can be done just need to know how. The thing is ...what is the rest of the engine like first. I would pull the pan and look at the bearings first before I maybe waste time on the crank.

[mjensen]

I'm going to pull the pan and check everything out. I drained the oil the other day and it looked great. Clean and no water. It didn't make any funky noises or burn any oil when I pulled it out, but 4 yrs of sitting could be a different story

I've read on this forum that some people run without the bolt, but I'm not sure.

[mud.man.rj]

Well here is the thing before to many things like power steering were on the older 283/327 and some earlier 350 engines the balancer didn't even come with a bolt in it and crank not drilled and tapped for one. So not saying it would fall off but could install without the bolt and red lock tite the balancer to the crank shaft. it worked for years right from GM but as mentioned drilling is not hard just many small steps in drill size up at a time and lots of patience, plus of course drilling in the center. I would still rip the engine apart first or really if I was spending money build the 400 first, all comes down to personal choice, money and capability also. Good luck.
Rick/Mudman.

[7dee2]

Mike, just got caught up on your thread.

The broken crank bolt can be removed with an easy out that is the correct size with some heat and patience (make sure you drill it straight) . GM put the big bolt, lock washer and large flat washer to keep the balancer from coming loose. I had a friend that lost his balancer going down the road and did extensive damage to his corvette. Don't run without it, bad idea could cause you some heartache.

I like the idea of running the 327 while you build the 400 the way you want. Only because I think your truck will be under powered with the stock 327 but this way you make that decision after trying it. Also if you know the history of the 327 and just got a little smoke on startup that is the valve guides starting to wear out and is an easy fix just install umbrella seals. Read up on how to adjust the valve lash. My guess is it's a hydraulic cam and they are the easiest to adjust.

You do need to pull the pan to repair the rear main seal leak. Make sure you do this correctly or you will end up doing it all over. I would also try firing the engine asap and you will know what you have. Make your repairs and prior to paint mock it up in the frame and run it. Fix the leaks adjust the valves and when your satisfied paint it.

My 2 cents.

[cmabolt]

Hey Mike! Nice build. Figured I would slide on over and check it since I can't work on mine for a couple more weeks. Tough news about the crank bolt. This kinda stuff is exactly why just put in an LS rather than mess with my 350.
a 40 year old small block has seen too many wrenches.

Frames turned out great as well. Keep it up.

Chris
Project Reno

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

Well here is the thing before to many things like power steering were on the older 283/327 and some earlier 350 engines the balancer didn't even come with a bolt in it and crank not drilled and tapped for one. So not saying it would fall off but could install without the bolt and red lock tite the balancer to the crank shaft. it worked for years right from GM but as mentioned drilling is not hard just many small steps in drill size up at a time and lots of patience, plus of course drilling in the center. I would still rip the engine apart first or really if I was spending money build the 400 first, all comes down to personal choice, money and capability also. Good luck.
Rick/Mudman.

I think that's some pretty solid advise. Thanks!

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Mike, just got caught up on your thread.

The broken crank bolt can be removed with an easy out that is the correct size with some heat and patience (make sure you drill it straight) . GM put the big bolt, lock washer and large flat washer to keep the balancer from coming loose. I had a friend that lost his balancer going down the road and did extensive damage to his corvette. Don't run without it, bad idea could cause you some heartache.

I like the idea of running the 327 while you build the 400 the way you want. Only because I think your truck will be under powered with the stock 327 but this way you make that decision after trying it. Also if you know the history of the 327 and just got a little smoke on startup that is the valve guides starting to wear out and is an easy fix just install umbrella seals. Read up on how to adjust the valve lash. My guess is it's a hydraulic cam and they are the easiest to adjust.

You do need to pull the pan to repair the rear main seal leak. Make sure you do this correctly or you will end up doing it all over. I would also try firing the engine asap and you will know what you have. Make your repairs and prior to paint mock it up in the frame and run it. Fix the leaks adjust the valves and when your satisfied paint it.

My 2 cents.

Thanks for the 2 cents Brett :-) I'm going to need all I can get to figure out what to do.

Originally Posted by cmabolt

Hey Mike! Nice build. Figured I would slide on over and check it since I can't work on mine for a couple more weeks. Tough news about the crank bolt. This kinda stuff is exactly why just put in an LS rather than mess with my 350.
a 40 year old small block has seen too many wrenches.

Frames turned out great as well. Keep it up.

Chris
Project Reno

Thanks for stopping by Chris and thanks for the compliments. This project has now been derailed until I figure out what to do about this engine. I did clean all the old grease off the block yesterday just so I feel like progress is being made.

[mjensen]

So, I'm thinking about a new engine option. I can get a Blueprint Engines fully dressed 383 complete with a 750 cfm carb and HEI distributor for $3,600 shipped. It is dyno'd at 330 hp/385 Ft lbs of torque. The monster 430/450 would end up $1,000 more fully dressed. I'm starting to think this may be the direction I end up going. Anybody watching the thread have any thoughts on this?

[cmabolt]

I say go with the 383 for the torque or say screw it and go LS. Of course I'm a little biased.

Chris

[mjensen]

I would go LS if I didn't want to keep my old 4 speed. I'm a little weird that way I still need to call my local engine shop to get his opinion and options, but I'm really leaning towards the 383 now. All I need to do is sell my motorcycle and I'm on it!

[mud.man.rj]

All I can say more is better, trucks aren't all that light, I big block everything myself, just love torque.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by mjensen

I received my spindle nuts today, so I tore down the driver's side again and replaced the nuts, then buttoned up the passenger side. Front end is all but done!!! I am so pleased with how it turned out.

Attachment 1139266

Where did you get the spindle nuts at? and were they the 3/8's or the 7/16's?

You have made some great progress on this truck!

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Where did you get the spindle nuts at? and were they the 3/8's or the 7/16's?

You have made some great progress on this truck!

Thanks! I hope to do some minimal things this weekend. I'm going to get my trans/splitter/bell housing sealed up and bolted together. Possibly even mount the tcase

The spindle nuts came from my favorite place to order items from...Rockauto . Looking at the specs, they are 3/8".

[swamp rat]

Rock auto to the rescue again! I'm gonna run to the hardware store and see if they have this kind of nut, if not then i'll order some. Thanks!

Found out too that the Barrel taper bearings are no longer made, all are converting to tapered roller, thanks for the help there too, it gets kinda frustrating when you spend hours searching for answers on the net.

[mjensen]

Glad I could help! I would think that any Napa or the like should have those nuts too, but I was ordering other stuff so I just threw them on the order.

I know what you mean about hours researching. I have spent the last 2 weeks obsessing and researching what I'm going to do for the powerplant. I'm now leaning towards just building my own. Seems like going with the cheaper Blueprint engine has been real hit or miss with others on this forum and others.
Posted via Mobile Device

[swamp rat]

I cant find them in Rock auto..

I have hopes on a 383 stroker that will run on mid grade, but right now the bank account says to just run what ya got, especially if its still running strong.. I rebuilt my engine back in 96 went with a 30 over, RV cam and some other standard stuff keeping in mind that trucks need torque, and the operating rpm range which i drive ect. The machine shop that did the balancing of my rotating assy said with all the parts he estimated about 335 hp, nothing too wild but that's fine, i don't want wild, but i haven't pulled a heavy trailer since then ether so when the time comes i figure it will be because i'm not happy with the power pulling a trailer or heavy load up the pass..

[swamp rat]

Oh, Blue printing is a lot of labor hours working up a piece of paper documenting all the particulars., I think its more important to put that money into having a machine shop balance the rotating assembly and buying good parts.

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I cant find them in Rock auto..

I have hopes on a 383 stroker that will run on mid grade, but right now the bank account says to just run what ya got, especially if its still running strong.. I rebuilt my engine back in 96 went with a 30 over, RV cam and some other standard stuff keeping in mind that trucks need torque, and the operating rpm range which i drive ect. The machine shop that did the balancing of my rotating assy said with all the parts he estimated about 335 hp, nothing too wild but that's fine, i don't want wild, but i haven't pulled a heavy trailer since then ether so when the time comes i figure it will be because i'm not happy with the power pulling a trailer or heavy load up the pass..

What can't you find on Rockauto? I really wish I could have just slapped my 327 back in. You would think the thing would have been a dog, but the gearing was so low that it actually towed very well. But, you know, it's a damn shame to have to upgrade

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Oh, Blue printing is a lot of labor hours working up a piece of paper documenting all the particulars., I think its more important to put that money into having a machine shop balance the rotating assembly and buying good parts.

The company is called "Blueprint Engines" which is where I was looking at picking up a fully dressed 383 for $3,600 shipped. That seemed like a really good deal at the time, but I'm just not willing to roll the dice on whether they built mine correctly. They use all remanufactured parts to keep the costs down, which would be fine if it were a local shop that I could just tow it to and tell them it broke. I'm now on the path of determining what I'm going to build. I'm back to finishing my 400, or build a 383. The only real advantage I have with the 400 is that the block has already been bored 30 over and I have the pistons and rods. I'm still unsure about the crank, as the journals have surface rust that I'm not sure can be polished out. I still plan on calling my local shop to get their opinion, but I've been spending weeks researching so that I know what questions I should ask.

[swamp rat]

I couldn't find the spindle prevailing loc nuts, 3/8 NF, 6 per side.... But that's ok because i found them at my local hardware store for $0.40 each today.

[mjensen]

Awesome! I'm glad you found what you needed.

[mjensen]

Got a little done today. Engine and Tranny are back in. Engine will need to come out again, but the trans is good to go.

[swamp rat]

Cool!

BTW: You didn't say what brand the splitter is in your prior post, i'd like to look it up.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=243

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Cool!

BTW: You didn't say what brand the splitter is in your prior post, i'd like to look it up.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=243

Thanks! It's called a Ranger III and made by Advanced Adapters. They have an overdrive and under drive model. This one will give me the same final drive ratio as having a 5 speed in it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mjensen]

Well, I decided to mount the transfer case...when I was tightening up around the input shaft...crack went the rear bearing plate. Not cool! Apparently with the new input shaft bearing, I should have double checked that.