Storing my truck over winter.

[In The Ten Ring]

No time to get my truck running this year. Here is how it sits now.

Carb off, radiator out. When I unhooked the radiator hoses the engine made a "spooky" sound like rubbing the rim of a glass of water. The engine still has antifreeze in the water jacket, I assume.

I changed the oil and filter but it hasn't run since 2007.

The hood is down, rags are stuffed into the water neck and carb openings, and the truck is in a dry garage.

The gas tank is renewed and still out with all openings sealed. The fuel lines are all disconnected and will be replaced anyway.

The battery is out. Is she OK for the winter that way?

[70cst]

Sounds like you have your bases covered but I am half awake so here is a bump for you.

[slow-1]

When you say you assume there is antifreeze in the block, is that because when you drained the radiator it had antifreeze in it, or you just figure it has some in it?

If you are not sure, I would pour some in it just in case.

[In The Ten Ring]

Oh good question! The radiator was full of antifreeze when I drained and unhooked it.

[Lee H]

If it gets below freezing in your neck of the woods you need to test the antifreeze to be sure.

[STOCKISH]

Or just pull the block drains and have no worries at all.

[In The Ten Ring]

Where is the "block drain" on a 250 I6?

[marvgarr68]

If you pull the water pump (real easy) all the coolant will be out of the block. Almost all of the coolant should be out already with the lower hose removed. The water pump is at the bottom of the coolant passage anyway.

[In The Ten Ring]

Hmmm....

Well, with the lower hose off and water pump still on, is she OK as is for winter? I have no desire to get a new engine!

[marvgarr68]

Well how green was the antifreeze? If really green I wouldn't worry about it. You could also blow air through top outlet to push some more coolant out.

[In The Ten Ring]

Antifreeze was basically new (maybe 50 miles on it when parked) and it was very green when I took out the radiator.

It looks like I will practically do a frame off before I get this thing running again! Things always seem to snowball for me not matter what it is I try to fix. LOL

[Don Quixote]

I may be an over-achiever in this but I have to store my truck when the army sends me overseas and when I do, I drain all the fluids out of the engine and fill the entire crankcase with ATF. I run synthetic gear oil in the transmission and rear end so I will top off the transmission and fill the read end pumpkin through the vent and I use DOT5 brake fluid because it is not corrosive. I also make sure the gas tank is full even though I drain it when I go to fire it back up. Then I use jackstands to let the suspension hang. I remove the battery if I have no electric where I store it but when I do I will hook it to a trickle and leave a couple LEDs running to ward off some of the wire corrosion. I top it off with used engine oil in a weed sprayer to hit the undercarriage with.

I put the truck back on the road by changing out the rear end oil, an oil filter and oil change to the engine, spark plug, wire cap and rotor changes and a flush to the radiator before I fill it.

It's a lot of work but it's my workhorse and I've had it 17 years now and I like having the best of both worlds.

[marvgarr68]

I think you wont have any problems if you are still worried you can also pull the rear freeze plug on driver side. I know my 250 was angled back alot so most coolant is in the rear. With coolant that new I wouldnt worry about it.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

I think you wont have any problems if you are still worried you can also pull the rear freeze plug on driver side. I know my 250 was angled back alot so most coolant is in the rear. With coolant that new I wouldnt worry about it.

That's good news! Thanks.