Project "It's a Jimmy Thing"

[jaros44sr]

Nice work on the door, it looks good from here....that is my weak spot, trying to weld sheetmetal

I buy all my electrical tools and connecters from Waytek. You could go middle of the road on tools, and get a quality job from them. I think the more you spend the longer they last, ive always wanted to pass my tools down to my sons, so i tend to spend more on them......i think i spent between 40- 60 on them

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice work on the door, it looks good from here....that is my weak spot, trying to weld sheetmetal

I buy all my electrical tools and connecters from Waytek. You could go middle of the road on tools, and get a quality job from them. I think the more you spend the longer they last, ive always wanted to pass my tools down to my sons, so i tend to spend more on them......i think i spent between 40- 60 on them

The door has a little bit of a wave in it. The long flat weld is a PITA to keep it from shrinking and you can hardly get to the backside to hammer and dolly it. It will be up to my body guy if i should just get new skins.

Thanks, for the tip on tools. I will check them out. I just don't want to spend $200 on American Autowires tools.

[notsolo]

I used cheap combination crimping and stripping tool about $10. works OK but not the best....I am going to get this one to finish my AAW Classic update kit....This http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18900...=crimping+tool

[JJH Jimmy]

Well, I ordered replacement door skins and actually installed them myself! It really wasn't as hard as i thought it was going to be. They are not perfect and will require a little bit of filler where i dinged them up with the dolly putting them on, but they are a whole lot better than what i had.

[JJH Jimmy]

I cut the mirror holes out of my old door skins and will use them for template for the new skins. And i also built a relay bracket that i mounted behind the battery tray on the drivers side to hold the electric fan relays and eventually hold the headlight relays.

[JJH Jimmy]

I got all of the sheet metal on this week and have been working on adjusting the gaps. Everything seems to be looking o.k. except for the lower portion of both doors where they meet the fender. There is quite a bit more gap in those locations. I will probably weld in some 1/8" welding filler wire on the door edge in those locations and grind it until the gaps are how i want them. But, i will get my body guy over here and see what he thinks first. Here are some pictures of the passenger side.

[JJH Jimmy]

Here are some pictures of the drivers side. Same issue with the gap on the front lower portion of the door.

[JJH Jimmy]

Hood Gaps.

[JJH Jimmy]

Tailgate gaps. I ended up shimming the bolts on the hinges on the tailgate so it can't move side to side. Seemed to work good.

[JJH Jimmy]

I remembered how much noise the tailgate straps made rattling around the little bit i have drove the Jimmy before i tore it apart so I went to the pick and pull this morning and scrounged some tailgate cables and bolts from a Dakota and a Ranger to see what ones would work the best. The Dakotas are perfect. I will get new cables when the time comes but i just wanted to mock it up.

[JJH Jimmy]

My hood looked like someone stood on it, so i found one on Craigslist a while back and bought it. After i got the hood home and inspected it better it had a bunch of little dings and was kind of rusty so i thought that i would try to save my original hood since it is completely rust free. I forgot to take pictures of the process, but what i did was take a piece of 1" square tube and slightly bend it to the contour of the hood i bought on Craigslist. I then trimmed the ends of the tube so it would slide under the front and rear supports of the hood and capped off the ends. I put some POR 15 on it and installed it under the hood and tacked it in. I then took the support off another junk hood i had and installed it in the center of my hood to cover up the square tube and give it a "factory appearance. It turned out really good and now my hood is a lot stiffer.

Something else i realized today is that the rust repair is 100% complete.

[Tom Vogel]

Good job! These hoods actually need more bearing than what they came with. IMHO

[SONOSADSACK]

Looking great and I dig the hood mod

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Good job! These hoods actually need more baring than what they came with. IMHO

Originally Posted by SONOSADSACK

Looking great and I dig the hood mod

Thanks guys!

[JJH Jimmy]

I am sure you guys are getting sick of my door gap pictures, but i finally have them where i want them with a lot of grinding, welding and some more grinding here they are. My goal was to get 3/16" all the way around the door. Besides the tailgate (need to get a new bottle of argon/Co2) all of the gaps are done!

[JJH Jimmy]

Passenger side.

[JJH Jimmy]

Santa came and brought me an AAW classic update kit. I will be on wiring for a while i think!

[SONOSADSACK]

I would have to say your time spent on the gaps has been well worth it. They turned out great. What do you think about the AAW kit? I was pleased with the quality overall and thought it was very user friendly. Keep it up. Spring will be here… well eventually.

[JJH Jimmy]

The doors have definitely been testing my patients. I have been working on them on and off for about 2 months now. If this thing was a suburban it would never get done. But, i chalk a lot of the time I spent on them up to learning experience and if i had to do them again now they would go much easier.

I have not gotten too far on the AAW kit yet because i am still waiting for the crimpers to show up, but i am extremely impressed with it. I was worried about having to splice into a brand new wiring harness for the LS motor power wires and other accessories but with the accessory plug on the harness it is truly plug and play! I am going to change a few things on it like put my electric fan trigger wires into the firewall plug to eliminate an extra hole in the firewall and relocate the temperature sensor wire to clean things up a bit and the AAW kit makes it easy to do all of this.

I can't wait until spring is here. I am already tired of clearing the driveway and a path through a 6' snow drift to my shop!

[jaros44sr]

Good morning, hope the snow has stopped....

Just got my remote tank vent from tanks inc., thank you for the advise, but i was wondering where you mounted yours, as the instructions mention being above the top of the filler neck, any help?

Great work on the truck so far

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Good morning, hope the snow has stopped....

Just got my remote tank vent from tanks inc., thank you for the advise, but i was wondering where you mounted yours, as the instructions mention being above the top of the filler neck, any help?

Great work on the truck so far

The snow stopped for a few days but it has fired back up again!

I have not mounted mine yet but i was going to put it somewhere just under the bed floor. Maybe build a bracket that will hold it and bolt to bed cross member.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

The snow stopped for a few days but it has fired back up again!

I have not mounted mine yet but i was going to put it somewhere just under the bed floor. Maybe build a bracket that will hold it and bolt to bed cross member.

Thanks for the response, thats where i was going to mount it also. But, the directions say to keep it higher then the filler neck. So, im not sure

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks for the response, thats where i was going to mount it also. But, the directions say to keep it higher then the filler neck. So, im not sure

You could run the vent hose from the tank over to the original vent tube assembly on the drivers side and then connect the vent you got from tanksinc to one of the other tubes on the vent assembly. You could then plug off the remaining tube.

or

You could just run the vent hose from the tank up through the bed floor and into the space behind the interior panel then make a loop just higher than the fill tube and bring the hose back down through the bed floor and install the vent you got from tanksinc.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

You could run the vent hose from the tank over to the original vent tube assembly on the drivers side and then connect the vent you got from tanksinc to one of the other tubes on the vent assembly. You could then plug off the remaining tube.

or

You could just run the vent hose from the tank up through the bed floor and into the space behind the interior panel then make a loop just higher than the fill tube and bring the hose back down through the bed floor and install the vent you got from tanksinc.

Thanks for the ideas, ill give it some thought

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks for the ideas, ill give it some thought

I do not have the ability to fix my door gaps like you.....well done!