Polishing M/T valvecovers - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Chevy Punk · 12-13-2003, 07:26 PM

I have a set of old aluminium M/T valvecovers that I would like to polish. What would I need to do this and how would I do it? Also what could i put on them to keep them shiny? Thanks

*rage'nrat638* · 12-13-2003, 07:28 PM

mother's aluminum polish....WORK'S LIKE A BIT@H

YOU COULD CLEAR THEM......NAW

**old Rusty C10** · 12-13-2003, 11:01 PM

a buddy of mine who is into show cars uses mothers all the time

miket · 12-13-2003, 11:09 PM

i'm with ragenrat on this one....mothers is great.

jhow66 · 12-13-2003, 11:13 PM

With out "Mothers" we would not be here.LOL

cableguy0 · 12-13-2003, 11:23 PM

mothers is awesome stuff

BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 · 12-13-2003, 11:31 PM

As far as after you getting them polished and keeping them shiny try ZOOP SEAL it is kinda high for the kit, but the polish is supposed to last 2-3 years before it needs to be reapplied.

www.zoops.com is the site.

dinnut · 12-13-2003, 11:32 PM

right now i am polishing an aluminum intake manifold. when i bought it most of the original surface had been taken off. so i started with 180 grit sandpaper. since yours it probably already smooth you could start with like 220 and sand the whole thing. then go to 320 and this will remove all the slight scratches. then get a buffing wheel and some of the right kinda rouge... prob tripoli and hold the buffing wheel up to the item for a couple revolutions then move it continuosly over the part for about 30 seconds b4 reloading. do this with tripoli, then white, then jewelers rouge and they will be amazingly beautiful

cdowns · 12-13-2003, 11:47 PM

i found the best way was to look in the yellow pages "metal polishing"

**N2TRUX** · 12-14-2003, 02:25 AM

I have used just about every polish on the market at one time or another. This is the best I have found yet-Master-Formula They have a sealer that goes with it. I haven't used the sealer yet, so I can't vouch for it...

Alexis · 12-14-2003, 02:27 AM

i use the stuff N2TRUX posted. great stuff the sealer works ok. Maybe i'll polish my bike on monday and post some before and after picture if you would like. it a BMX but still will show the differance it makes.

mooneyes · 12-14-2003, 03:08 AM

...i took the easy way out on my M/T's..i sandblasted them, painted the tops yellow then cleaned the paint off the very tops of the fins and letters and cleared them...the sandblasting gives them a satin look.....

Fred T · 12-14-2003, 11:55 AM

Polishing takes several steps, depending on condition. If they're rough, I'd start with glass bead blasting, then wet sand starting with a 180 grit and work up to 2000. After that you go with the compounds and buffing wheels. Takes quite a bit of time, but will be a work of art when you're through. I bought a set on the cheap with a dented corner, worked the dent the best I could and smoothed with JBWeld. Sanded smooth and painted orange with ceramic paint. Then sanded and polished the tops before applying a ceramic engine clear. Looks good, doesn't corrode, and is easy to clean. Just don't leave the aluminum bare, engine chemicals cause a lot of corrosion.

12-13-2003, 07:26 PM	#1
Chevy Punk Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Blaine WA Posts: 455	Polishing M/T valvecovers I have a set of old aluminium M/T valvecovers that I would like to polish. What would I need to do this and how would I do it? Also what could i put on them to keep them shiny? Thanks

12-13-2003, 11:01 PM	#3
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,303	a buddy of mine who is into show cars uses mothers all the time __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

12-13-2003, 11:09 PM	#4
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	i'm with ragenrat on this one....mothers is great. __________________ FocuzTech Performance Evergreen Protective Coatings Gatorhyde...the best kept secret in spray in bed lining & protection

12-13-2003, 11:13 PM	#5
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	With out "Mothers" we would not be here.LOL __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

12-13-2003, 11:23 PM	#6
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	mothers is awesome stuff __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

12-13-2003, 07:28 PM	#2
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	mother's aluminum polish....WORK'S LIKE A BIT@H YOU COULD CLEAR THEM......NAW

12-13-2003, 11:31 PM	#7
BLACK AND BLUE 67-72 Firefighter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Yellville, Ar, USA Posts: 1,943	As far as after you getting them polished and keeping them shiny try ZOOP SEAL it is kinda high for the kit, but the polish is supposed to last 2-3 years before it needs to be reapplied. www.zoops.com is the site. __________________ '72 Chevy SWB 350 Auto '67 GMC LWB 350 4 speed '70 Chevy 4x4 Stepside 350 Auto Yellville, Ar. USA

12-13-2003, 11:32 PM	#8
dinnut Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: missouri city, tx Posts: 4,486	right now i am polishing an aluminum intake manifold. when i bought it most of the original surface had been taken off. so i started with 180 grit sandpaper. since yours it probably already smooth you could start with like 220 and sand the whole thing. then go to 320 and this will remove all the slight scratches. then get a buffing wheel and some of the right kinda rouge... prob tripoli and hold the buffing wheel up to the item for a couple revolutions then move it continuosly over the part for about 30 seconds b4 reloading. do this with tripoli, then white, then jewelers rouge and they will be amazingly beautiful __________________ 70 longbed 496/th400/Ford 9"

12-13-2003, 11:47 PM	#9
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	i found the best way was to look in the yellow pages "metal polishing" __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

12-14-2003, 02:25 AM	#10
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,023	I have used just about every polish on the market at one time or another. This is the best I have found yet-Master-Formula They have a sealer that goes with it. I haven't used the sealer yet, so I can't vouch for it... __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

12-14-2003, 02:27 AM	#11
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,879	i use the stuff N2TRUX posted. great stuff the sealer works ok. Maybe i'll polish my bike on monday and post some before and after picture if you would like. it a BMX but still will show the differance it makes.

12-14-2003, 03:08 AM	#12
mooneyes Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Slippery Rock PA USA Posts: 1,692	...i took the easy way out on my M/T's..i sandblasted them, painted the tops yellow then cleaned the paint off the very tops of the fins and letters and cleared them...the sandblasting gives them a satin look..... __________________ Ken Lyons, Slippery rock pa 68 short step 327 t10 4 gear 72 2wd blazer project 70 lwb 305/700r driver 78 caprice project 02 cavalier D.D ( hate it!!)

12-14-2003, 11:55 AM	#13
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Polishing takes several steps, depending on condition. If they're rough, I'd start with glass bead blasting, then wet sand starting with a 180 grit and work up to 2000. After that you go with the compounds and buffing wheels. Takes quite a bit of time, but will be a work of art when you're through. I bought a set on the cheap with a dented corner, worked the dent the best I could and smoothed with JBWeld. Sanded smooth and painted orange with ceramic paint. Then sanded and polished the tops before applying a ceramic engine clear. Looks good, doesn't corrode, and is easy to clean. Just don't leave the aluminum bare, engine chemicals cause a lot of corrosion. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.



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