Changing carrier bearing help !

[8door]

I bought a used drive shaft and need to install a new carrier bearing.
The used one has a flange on eithr side of the bearing, I assume is a
stone guard, but I can't pull the pinion yoke off. It is stuck firm.
My exsisting shaft didn't have the guard flange so I want to know is there
specific method needed to separate the yoke ? The old one came off easy
well real easy the the shaft split.

[bigmac73]

Pics would help out, thanks

[Daner]

You mean you can't separate the shaft? Or you can't get the driveshaft off the rear axle?

If the shaft won't separate try pump some grease in the fitting.

My bearing was froze solid to the shaft so I used a torch and cut it off avoiding the rock guard. Mine only had a guard in front of the bearing. When reassembling make sure the yokes are lined up correctly.

Good luck. Sorry if I misunderstood.

[1967chevy c10]

Hey new to the site. I wound mark the yoke and the shaft with a paint marker so you can line it back up. Plus I wound change the u joint too since you got take it out. I'm doing my tomorrow lol

[8door]

What I have is a broken drive shaft I took it off my truck then went out and bought a used one, also out of the truck both are sitting on my work bench.
The broken section is the splined shaft of the first shaft, the one between the transmission and the carrier bearing.
The used one is all together, I need to remove the yoke next to carrier bearing so I can change the old carrier bearing with a fresh new one. The yoke is stuck to the shaft....that is the problem. Ujoints came out OK.
Here are pics of old broken off my truck and used I bought. I cut the carrier bearin housing off to see what the two flanges look like.
I could take the whole thing to a drive line shop for them to seperate the yoke from the shaft, but wanted to see if you all might have a tip to get it done.

[msgross]

since you have a spare yoke now I'd try a gear puller on the used one. "should" slide off the splines and then you can pull the bearing off.

[Sammy]

You are this far I would just take it to a drive line shop let them reassemble and balance. The ones I removed were with a hydraulic press (best) and a torch without a press available. The right gear puller combination is a good recommendation too.
Key is if your replacement parts are good quality stuff. You hate doing this again in 6/ 12 months.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by Sammy

You are this far I would just take it to a drive line shop let them reassemble and balance. The ones I removed were with a hydraulic press (best) and a torch without a press available. The right gear puller combination is a good recommendation too.
Key is if your replacement parts are good quality stuff. You hate doing this again in 6/ 12 months.

X2. Inland Empire driveline is right down the street in Corona.

[brad_man_72]

Since you have to take it to a driveline shop to have it ballanced anyways, have them do all of the work and make sure the used shaft you bought is worth repairing. Take both shafts. There's much better carrier stubs oavailable now than when these parts were new 40 years ago.

Any time you repair anything on a 2 piece shaft it needs to be reballanced as an assembly, even if you mark everything.

Take the bolt out of the carrier yoke. Secure yoke, drive carrier stub through yoke. Remove shields (put them in the trash). Cut the old carrier bearing off (don't use a torch heat warps steel). Drive new carrrier bearing on. Bolt on yoke the same direction as when it was ballanced last or in time if somebody else already messed it up making sure the bolt will actually tighten the yoke on the stub (many won't). Reinstall rear shaft the same way it was ballanced last using a good spicer or neapco ujoint (shim joint to remove any endplay or at least make sure the keepers are installed). Take to a driveline shop to have the shaft ballanced as an assembly.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by Sammy

You are this far I would just take it to a drive line shop let them reassemble and balance. The ones I removed were with a hydraulic press (best) and a torch without a press available. The right gear puller combination is a good recommendation too.
Key is if your replacement parts are good quality stuff. You hate doing this again in 6/ 12 months.

x3 the balance thing might come back to bite ya switching parts out ,should be cheap to have a driveshaft shop do and , will be done right

[8door]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

Since you have to take it to a driveline shop to have it ballanced anyways, have them do all of the work and make sure the used shaft you bought is worth repairing. Take both shafts. There's much better carrier stubs oavailable now than when these parts were new 40 years ago.

Any time you repair anything on a 2 piece shaft it needs to be reballanced as an assembly, even if you mark everything.

Take the bolt out of the carrier yoke. Secure yoke, drive carrier stub through yoke. Remove shields (put them in the trash). Cut the old carrier bearing off (don't use a torch heat warps steel). Drive new carrrier bearing on. Bolt on yoke the same direction as when it was ballanced last or in time if somebody else already messed it up making sure the bolt will actually tighten the yoke on the stub (many won't). Reinstall rear shaft the same way it was ballanced last using a good spicer or neapco ujoint (shim joint to remove any endplay or at least make sure the keepers are installed). Take to a driveline shop to have the shaft ballanced as an assembly.

I was planning on trashing the sheilds , as they will get crushed in a press anyway.
Balance the whole assembly including the ujoints, both shafts and the carrier bearing right ?

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by 8door

I was planning on trashing the sheilds , as they will get crushed in a press anyway.
Balance the whole assembly including the ujoints, both shafts and the carrier bearing right ?

The shields usually come off pretty easy.

You got it! Just imagine that every part is not straight or centered. The carrier stub/bolt on yoke and ujoint are swinging the rear shaft around, not just spinning but a circular motion. Ballancing doesn't make the shaft any straighter it just keeps the shaft from shaking. Now if you move any of those parts around the ballance will change.

Now even with everything marked something that would seemingly not change the ballance like changing the carrier bearing actually will affect the ballance. Either due to parts not fitting the exact same as they did before or the ujoint being installed slightly different. It doesn't take much of a vibration to kill the carrier bracket on these trucks. On other vehicles a ballance problem will just beat the rubber to death.