Front Suspension lowering question

[1969Chev]

I have already lowered my rear end. But I do not know how to go about lowering the front. I have coils all the way around on my 69 3/4 ton 2wd. I have an idea but not sure about it. Any ideas guys? how did you all do it?
Thanks!

[sduckworth13]

How much did you lower the rear end by?

[STPrider]

Hi there,
There are several ways you can lower the front end of your truck. There are many more informed people than me on here, but here's my understanding:
-Springs, you can go down a few inches using springs, but keep in mind that using springs to get really low will compromise ride quality.
-spindles, you can typically get 2, 2.5, and 3 inch drop spindles. Since your truck is a 69 (assuming with stock drums up front,) you may not get away with dropping with spindles unless you have bigger-than-stock wheels that can clear.
-airbags: wonderful ride quality, can get a cheap schraeder-valve setup from a bunch of vendors on this board. Should be able to get started for around 500$, ride quality is amazing, and not a lot of hassle if you set it up leak-free the first time.
-fabrication: if you are a welder, your options are almost unlimited. Lots of guys cup the lower control arms, pancake the crossmember to sit higher up on the frame, etc etc. Look around! There's lots of great builds to read! There are a few more things to keep in mind:
-Scrub line: if you're running stock-sized wheels, look under your truck and make sure that in the event of a flat tire, you're still riding on wheels, not dragging on the frame. This is a huge safety concern, because you would not be able to steer. There's also horror stories of tires bottoming out in potholes, and frames hooking on the road, you get the picture.
-Shock relocation: if you drop too much, you will need to relocate the top mounts of the shocks to get a decent ride quality, and assure that they aren't bottoming out.
Hope this helps,
Derek

[sduckworth13]

No manufacturer makes drop spindles for drum brakes for our trucks.

[1969Chev]

thanks for the input! i have already lowered the rear about 4 inches. im making lowering blocks as well.
I have lowered springs for the front. I guess I should of worded my question differently. How should i go about getting the old spring out and the new lowered ones in?

[sduckworth13]

Borrowed this from Wes " sinister " when he did a write up on removing the coil spring

1) Jack the front of the truck up by the large crossmember under the motor.
2) Place jack stands under the frame rails just forward of the front of the front cab mounts and let the jack back down. (Making sure that the tires remain off the ground)
3) Remove the front tires and wheels.
4) Place floor jack under the lower "A" arm and jack it up until it is about 1/8" away from touching it.
5) Remove the cotter pin that is keeping the castle nut from backing off on the lower ball joints.
6) Back the castle nut off about 1/4".
7) Using the 3 pound hammer, smack the side of the spindle where the lower ball joint is. (This may take a couple of good hard hits)
8) Once the spindle pops loose of the lower ball joint then you jack the floor jack up to slightly lift the lower "A" arm up to relieve the spring tention from the ball joint and castle nut.
9) Remove the castle nut.
10) Lower the jack slowly to allow the "A" arm to open up.
11) Remove the old spring.
12) Replace with the new one making sure that you place it correctly into the pocket and jack the lower "A" arm back up. (This will take some coordination or extra hands. You need to make sure the spring is placed correctly, and the spindle lines up on the ball joint all at the same time.
13) Once the ball joint enters the spindle enough to start the castle nut, spin the castle nut on.
14) Then you can jack the "A" arm up until it tries to lift the truck. (Then stop)
15) Tighten the castle nut to seat the ball joint and line it up to place the cotter pin back in it.
16) Replace tires and wheels and let the truck back down.

[sduckworth13]

Here is a link for the coil spring removal thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=390171

[1969Chev]

THANK YOU! so i wouldnt need a ball joint spreader?

[sduckworth13]

You'll more than likely need one.

[sduckworth13]

Try hitting the control arm with a hammer and it should separate it from the spindle.

[Tx Firefighter]

Don't hit the control arm. Hit the spindle.

I haven't had to use a seperator on a ball joint in many years since I learned about the hitting the spindle with a hammer technique.

[LONGHAIR]

Agreed, hit the side of the spindle near the ball-joint stud. A pickle-fork type separator usually does more harm than good. They ruin the rubber boot and I have even seen one pull the joint apart.....as in pulled the stud out of the socket.

[lolife99]

This is a 1987,... but basically the same thing with the exception of the a-arm bushings.

87 Chevy C10 Front Suspension Rebuild in 15 mins...