Harbor Freight sand blaster?

[hpcgmc]

I'm cleaning up my front suspension parts to paint with masterseries coating. I've also got some paint prep of the engine bay and inside cab to do. I see harbor freight has sand blasters - some that attach to the air compressor for about $20 http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-h...gun-95793.html and some that are stand alone units for $140 http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-...ter-69724.html

Will these work well enough to clean up my suspension and prep the cab for paint? I had a friend who was gonna blast the suspension parts at work, but don't think that's gonna happen now.

I was thinking of using the truck cab as a "cabinet" and blasting parts through an open window. This would allow me to re use some media, and reduce the mess.

Here's some pics of my suspension parts and my cab.

Any thoughts?

[truckster]

I don't think the smaller one will do what you want; you'd have to reload way too often.

I own the larger one. It works OK, but there are a couple of things to be aware of. It's kind of prone to clogging, so you really have to work with the valves to get it to flow right. Also, the stream is very narrow, so you'll be cleaning maybe a 1/4 to 3/8 inch swath at a time.

And it is very messy. I've used both silica and aluminum oxide in mine, and it gets everywhere.

[FirstOwner69]

I have one like the bigger one, but not from Harbor. I second truckster's comments. It requires a pretty big compressor. It's good for small items though. I'd never tackle things as large as you want to do. It's way too slow. You are best off to have a pro do the large items.

[ETsC10]

I don't bother with a sand blaster.

When I did my last suspension, I scraped off as much crud (putty knife & wire brush) as I could
and then started working on the parts with a oven cleaner. Keep going over them until clean
(wear a respirator & chemical resistant gloves!).
Follow up at the car wash with engine de-greaser and then soap.

I would think working the cab over with soapy water and a scrubbier followed with a
Paint Prep or solvent should do the trick.

You would have to pretty much degrease this much in order to sand blast anyway.

[BR3W CITY]

I bought an HF media blaster on uber-sale a while back, and I think its a complete waste. I have a good compressor, and even so it is so wasteful on air that the tank only lasts a few minutes...its worse than painting with the HVLP. It also didn't spray well, and was too patchy. You had to go over spots too many times, it just wasn't worth the time, effort, or blasting media (since its not in a cabinet, its total-loss, which goes through a LOT of stuff)

Now I use a "you-blast-it" place for my smaller parts, and they have decent prices on doing the work.

[midniteblues]

i really like my hf pot blaster sure it does have a narrow path and yes the valves are crappy but once i got them sorted out it works pretty good.

i lay out a big tarp and i use crushed glass and i also sift it through window screen into totes(before and after blasting) i havent had a clog since i've been doing this. for the price and the "to be able too do it myself" i think you cant go wrong. i will say this though you'll need a good compressor and drier as they use a crap load of air.

i've done pretty much all of my cab with it(except the out panels) it takes a while but too me its worth haveing around. for the smaller items like you wanna do i'd get it. take note though as etsc10 said a good cleaning before really helps.

[72bowtiestepper]

I have the HF one......when it works, it's OK....but be prepared to unclog it...A LOT ! I have tried several types of blasting media & found the fine grade that Tractor Supply sells works out the best. Good Luck.....It does use a ton of air like others have said.

[Grumpy old man]

I just bought the large cabinet from harbor freight on Jan 1 they had a 25% off sale and I got it for $150.00 (look for discount coupon on ebay ) You need at least 60 gallon air compressor to work any cabinet ,And when brand new they are prone to clogging but all you have to do to unclog them is place your finger over the nozzle and pullthe trigger the air will blow back thru the sand pickup and easily unclog it and NO it won't damage your finger ,you can also make a cheap "cabinet " using some pvc pipe and cheap harbor freight tarps and reclaim all your blast media ,if i read right and your considering blasting small parts in your cab I would not encourage you to try it ,You will never clean all the media and dust out of it ...http://

[hpcgmc]

Thanks for all the input guys. I've decided not to get the HF blaster - sounds like it's not really the right tool for the job. Plus, had a beer with my friend that works at a shop last night. He said he can take the suspension parts in one at a time and blast them over the next couple of weeks.

PROBLEM SOLVED!

[swamp rat]

Another option but one to be very careful about, Using Muratic Acid to eat the rust off, I'm not talking Phosporus Acid, the real Muratic Acid, real nasty stuff that is used in swimming pool water, you have to sign a purchase log to get it, its regulated by the powers that be as its used to make illegal drugs i believe.. the vapors are seriously nasty so it requires a respirator like a 3M unit with acid vapor filters, but this stuff eats rust down to bare metal.

[Hugh Mongus]

I bought the 40lb HF portable blaster and it worked great with my 60 gallon compressor. I blasted the inside of the cab, the frame, and the front suspension for repaint. I used soda for everything. I would probably use something more abrasive for the frame and suspension parts if I did it again. I spent around $80 for mine on sale. It was definitely worth it.

The soda didn't do well with undercoating. My truck had undercoating from years ago and then the PO had added more on top of that. It would remove it but it was painfully slow. I'm sure a more abrasive medium would work better.

A couple things to think about:

1. Get a pressure regulator. It doesn't come with one. If you don't shut off the air flow to the tank when you pause, you will lose pressure through the pop-off valve. The blaster is rated at 100lbs but it runs up to about 110lbs before the relief pops.

2. Probably shouldn't use it inside. I used it inside my 40X50 shop and it left white dust everywhere. I have a few more things to blast but I am waiting for warmer weather so I can do it outside.

Here are some pics of the things I used it on.

[Ronw435]

Is the glass media good to use. I want to blast my frame, suspension etc.?

[JointTech]

that HF pressure blaster is a huge pile of crap. I did much better just sticking the gun from my blast cabinet in a bag of media...

[7dee2]

Broke mine out the other day and remembered why I hated it from the last time I had used it. IMO really large parts farm them out. Parts that will fit in a cabinet go that route if possible. If neither is an option and you must, modify the unit like this and it will not clog as bad. Still need a large compressor, really dry air and screen your media. Found this modification online and it works a lot better now. Cost approx. $25 at the Home Depot.

A - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
B - 1/2" ball valve
C - 1/2" x close nipple
D - 1/2" MIP x 1/2" barbed fitting
E - 1/2" galvanized Tee
F - 1/2" galvanized 45*
G - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
H - 3/8" brass coupling

[In The Ten Ring]

If I had the space in my garage I would get a media blasting cabinet (my garage is that junked up).

What I have been doing is electrolysis followed by Evaporust soak. The results are generally really good with no dangerous chemicals or media anywhere.

I do this for parts you'd usually blast: irregular-shaped brackets and such.

I've done my:

battery tray
hood hinges
radiator brackets
radiator core support-to-fender brackets
charcoal filter bracket
grill bracket
hood latch
(currently) washer bottle bracket

I follow up with NAPA Rust Treatment, primer, and paint.

I'm sure a blasting cabinet would be much more efficient and cheaper in the long run though.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Broke mine out the other day and remembered why I hated it from the last time I had used it. IMO really large parts farm them out. Parts that will fit in a cabinet go that route if possible. If neither is an option and you must, modify the unit like this and it will not clog as bad. Still need a large compressor, really dry air and screen your media. Found this modification online and it works a lot better now. Cost approx. $25 at the Home Depot.

A - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
B - 1/2" ball valve
C - 1/2" x close nipple
D - 1/2" MIP x 1/2" barbed fitting
E - 1/2" galvanized Tee
F - 1/2" galvanized 45*
G - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
H - 3/8" brass coupling

Yet to use mine, good tip ^

I have a blast cabinet but it won't get used again until I get on the ball and add wheels to it so I can blast outside. Never again in the shop. Even with the vac running the stuff gets everywhere. really fine dust finds its way out.