Project "Leon "

[texasld]

My name is Mike Myers, I am a 22, and live in the Dallas area. This is my first full on build of any type of automotive gig, but I'm ready to get on it. I have been wrenching on stuff ever since I received the hand-me-down family go-cart that had already been put through the riggers of my older cousins and siblings, and you can bet that it was beat on, HARD. I have been breaking and then figuring out how to fix things ever since. 4-wheeler, My old DD (1994 GMC 1500) 2001 KX250 that some one blew up for me.... The list continues. There is something to be said about being covered in oil and grease and turning the key to drive away.

I received a phone call from my grandfather, David Leon Myers, hence the name, project "Leon" (Man in 1st Picture) back in November of 2013. That's the crazy man that called me and said he has a project for me. He is a pretty steller dude. This is what I got.






Its a titled and registered 1969 C10. (Someone had swapped the grille at some point in time.) It has a GM crate 350 already installed and a turbo 350.

The truck has some rust issues in the normal places. but isn't a total rust bucket.

My Plan. (In no specific order.) Full Frame-up restore

1. Long to Short Bed
2. All new painless wiring.
3. 4l60e with lockup kit
4. 2/4 drop.
5. 18's front 20's rear.
6. All new interior. (currently non existent)
Late Model seats with belts built in, center console, etc...
7 Vintage Air system. (For those hot TEXAS summers.)
8. Under bed gas tank.
And so on...

[texasld]

Well after monkeying around last night, I pulled off the grille and core support. After pulling about 37 various size and shape fasteners out and having to whip out the angle grinder to cut the main support bolts. (Bolting the support to the frame). I finally got it free... Like I said in the first post, Someone has replaced the original grille with a GMC grille, And I think I know why. More about that later.

I have dug into rust!!!!

That Didn't take long...


Inner fender


Core Support (under Battery Tray)


Now, My suspicion about the grille replacement is that the front end was wrecked. This is why I say that.


The PS fender is dented in on the lower corner and the fender is actually bent in on the inside as you can kind of see here. Just add it to the list.


I also pulled out the wire wheel on the bench grinder and cleaned up the support brackets, and hit them with a coat of black spray paint. They turned out OK, I think I'll go back and hit them again, but this is how they turned out...


Here is what It looks like now.



I may hit the shop again and pull off the fenders tonight.

[texasld]

One more picture. I call this one Toothless...

[SCOTI]

Cool start & history.
One question for you.... What tire sizes are you planning for the 18/20 2/4" drop combo?

[texasld]

I found this picture on the SoKo Classics website. I really dig the outside of this truck. I'll be shooting for something very similar.



I really like this setup. The tire sizes on the truck in this picture are. I really like this setup.

Front Tires: 255/45ZR18 BFGoodrich KDW
Rear Tires: 295/45ZR20 BFGoodrich KDW

[texasld]

Got into the shop last night. Nice night to work, Mid 50's. (This Texas boy likes when it cools down)

Started by taking the hood and hinges off, pulling the radiator and draining the fluids. Pulling the old nasty carb off of the intake and began pulling the motor apart. I don't have a engine hoist at the moment, but I was just pulling things apart to check for any bad signs.

Here is some of the progress.



Started off the engine tear down on the right foot by breaking off a thermostat housing bolt. I had a feeling that was coming. That puts my broken bolt count up to 5 now.


Found some more rust in the driver side inner fender, just above the PS pump. It was put to great use. It was the perfect place for a screw driver.

Tore all of the accessories off of the front. Everything seems to be ok. The water pump spun freely and didn't make any noises. The alternator looks fairly new. The PS pump was bone dry, and that concerns me, but I'll look into that more, later.



It always a joy to find red-necked truck parts like this "custom" throttle linkage.

[texasld]

Pulled of the valve covers and intake. Everything looks OK, nothing out of the ordinary. After removeing 15 years of oil, leaves, extra rusty hardware, and so on I found that the intake is an Aluminum Eddlebrock Performer.

I know how we all love pictures, so here are some photos for you.





This one sign concerns me. Maybe someone can tell me exactly why this is. There are two ports on the intake that one is fully clogged, and the other is 1/2 clogged. It looks to be carbon, but I didn't mess with it last night.




BROKEN BOLT COUNT: 5

[mcbassin]

Looks like you are off and running on a nice project. Bummer on the broken bolt count. Lord knows I have busted more than my fair share of them. Not sure about the other ones but the one pictured for the thermostat housing should come right out if you will carefully weld a flat washer to the remaining piece, then break it free with some channellocks while it's still hot. Then it should come right out. You can see how I removed an exhaust bolt from my aluminum head HERE

[texasld]

Sweet idea, thanks for the help sir! I'll try to hit it with a pair of vice grips first. I soaked it with some PB blaster (you can see it in one of the pictures) and left it over night. We will see what happens when I get home tonight. If all else fails, I'll whip out the welder.

[Katrina/10]

Those ports are the EGR passages.

[texasld]

Well, unfortunatly I haven't been in the shop much in the past week or so, but I do have some good news, I finally picked up this little guy!

Hobart 190. Has the cappablity of running a spool gun too!
I didn't take any pictures, but the internet prevails!

I picked this up brand new in an unopened box for $450 off of CL. Man CL is awesome!

I also stopped by a friends shop and blasted some parts, I need to clean them up and paint them before they start rusting again.

I am going to pull the stock style gas tank. PO just put it in. I'll be posting it under the classifieds if anyone needs one. Includes sending unit. Basically brand new.

[texasld]

Time change is a nice way to keep you motivated to get out into the shop and get working. Spent a few hours last night working on taking down the truck a bit more. Got the inner fenders, fenders, and blower motor assembly pulled out, along with the gas tank drained and pulled.

Selling both Gas tank
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=619648

And Blower motor in the classified section.
http://67-72chevytrucks.co/vboa/show...51#post6569651



Those Innerfender bolts are a pain in the A$$!!!! About the time I would get it to start spinning, the little J-clip would strip and it wouldn't come out!!! I was getting pissed, so out same the grinder and a hammer!!!

Also got the gas tank pulled, nothing much to see here, but here is a picture.


Doesn't seem/feel like I did much, bit It felt like I did.

Anyone have a quick tip on how to get the wiper arms off. I fiddled with it and couldn't seem to get it to come off. Need to get them off so I can get the cowl off.

BROKEN / CUT BOLT COUNT: 11

[texasld]

Well, I didn't get much work done on the truck this weekend, but I did get my welder all set up and ready to go.



I got the Mig cart on sale for $30 at HF. Some assembly required, but nothing bad. The only "issue" is, like many others have said, The door to the welder doesn't come up unless you tilt it slightly because the lip on the cart. You can also see that I picked up a full 122CF bottle of 25/75 Ag/Co2 off of CL for $125!

I went out for a drive yesterday and some A$$ was following me way to close all the way home.


Well turns out it was this guy!


Picked it up for $1200 from CL as well. The FI Vortec 5.3 runs like a song and started right up!

I'm pulling the Engine/Trans/ECU/Harnes/ Radiator/Front seats/Gas peddle/Rear view Mirror/... I wanted the Rear end but I'm thinking its no good.

Not bad for $1200

[Katrina/10]

Ouch!

[mcbassin]

Nice score on the Tahoe.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice score on the Tahoe.

Thanks man, Need a set of Moto metal wheels? Only one missing!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by texasld

Picked it up for $1200 from CL as well. The FI Vortec 5.3 runs like a song and started right up!

I'm pulling the Engine/Trans/ECU/Harnes/ Radiator/Front seats/Gas peddle/Rear view Mirror/... I wanted the Rear end but I'm thinking its no good. Not bad for $1200

Nice score. The rear end would have been really wide vs the OE housing thats currently in 'Leon' (possible it's been changed in the last 40+yrs).

[texasld]

I hadn't gone as far as measuring it yet. but thinks for the time saver. I guess I'll stick with what I have!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by texasld

I hadn't gone as far as measuring it yet. but thinks for the time saver. I guess I'll stick with what I have!

The pre-71's (6-luggers) are approx 62".
71-87's (5-lug) are approx 63.5".
88-98's are approx 65".

I think the newer ones increased again slightly but I've haven't had an opportunity to put a tape measure to one yet.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The pre-71's (6-luggers) are approx 62".
71-87's (5-lug) are approx 63.5".
88-98's are approx 65".

I think the newer ones increased again slightly but I've haven't had an opportunity to put a tape measure to one yet.

I tell you what, I'll throw a tape on it just for the heck of it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by texasld

I tell you what, I'll throw a tape on it just for the heck of it.

Those dimensions are from the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.

[aggie91]

Nice truck and nice score on the burb. I did a similar buy when I did my son's truck. After I parted out the rest of the wreck, I had $400 in the engine/trans/ecu/and the acc.

Also, to add to Scoti's note on the rear ends. Sometime during the '70 model year the 6 lug rear switched to the wider 63" dimension...

[JointTech]

theres a little tab under the wiper arm where it attaches to the shaft. I used a small screwdriver to pull back the tab and then I had to use a crowbar to gently pull the arm up without denting the cowl. it sounds ore dangerous than it is although I wouldnt have wanted to do that with fresh paint.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Those dimensions are from the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.

Didn't get around to measuring due to another project in my garage. (2000 Ford "EXPLODER" transmission swap) But I'll let you know. I guess I could just Google it.

Originally Posted by aggie91

Nice truck and nice score on the burb. I did a similar buy when I did my son's truck. After I parted out the rest of the wreck, I had $400 in the engine/trans/ecu/and the acc.

Also, to add to Scoti's note on the rear ends. Sometime during the '70 model year the 6 lug rear switched to the wider 63" dimension...

I'm hoping to turn something like that. I would be thrilled if I broke even!

Originally Posted by JointTech

theres a little tab under the wiper arm where it attaches to the shaft. I used a small screwdriver to pull back the tab and then I had to use a crowbar to gently pull the arm up without denting the cowl. it sounds ore dangerous than it is although I wouldnt have wanted to do that with fresh paint.

Thanks for the tip. It's getting to the point of hacksaw and cutting torch!!! If I were to see how the clip works, I would have a better understanding. The Windshield needs to come out anyways, maybe that will give me another angle to get to it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by texasld

Didn't get around to measuring due to another project in my garage. (2000 Ford "EXPLODER" transmission swap) But I'll let you know. I guess I could just Google it.

No specific need... Definitely no hurry. Just nice to know when sharing info w/others.

For my personal builds, the narrowest housing (the 6-lug 62") is usually the widest I want to use. My 67/68 (RetroRod) will utilize something in the 58" range & I'll prob do the same for my 64 (Recycle).