Best Product for Cracked Steering Wheel Repair

[chewiebarker]

I have read through several threads on this board, and elsewhere, searching for a way to repair cracks that are typical in the steering wheels on our trucks. Every thread I read seems to suggest that in the end, the wheel will re-crack once temperature, or pressure, changes. This is especially a concern for me because I live in New England where temperatures fluctuate signficantly from summer (sometimes 100+ degrees) to winter (sometimes -10 degrees).

Has anyone actually had success in repairing an old cracked wheel, and if so, what product did you use?

I have seen the following products suggested, with varying degrees of failure.

POR15 Epoxy Putty
JB Weld
JB Stick Weld
PC-7 Paste Epoxy

I would love to find a successful resto method rather than have to settle for an ugly aftermarket wheel or non-correct year wheel however, if GM couldn't engineer a 67-72 wheel that didn't crack, does anyone really think it is possible to succeed at restoring one that already has?

Thanks for your comments/thoughts.

[LockDoc]

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I used the PC-7 and mine started re-cracking in about a month. I just stuck it on one of my old junkers to replace a really bad one and bought a new repo.

LockDoc

[Sillyoldman]

I used a gas tank repair putty stick many years ago. I used it only because that's what was in arms reach. It filled the gap and shrinked a tiny bit but not enough to notice. Not going to say this is the "best" way but it worked for me. My wheel is black so the putty blended in.

[tedfrk]

I believe eastwood makes a kit for this.

[vectorit]

I've used JB weld in the past with a fine plastic filler.

[72MARIO]

I bought a new 1967 steering wheel. It does not feel the same. I find it very hard to the point it hurts my hands. I would rather have a repaired wheel with minor cracks than new.

[chewiebarker]

Originally Posted by tedfrk

I believe eastwood makes a kit for this.

They do, but I read elsewhere that it re-cracks. Also, one of its components is the use of PC7 which Doc confirmed above re-cracked on his.

I saw a very competnet video on you tube where the guy used POR15, and the result looked great, but I have no idea whether it eventually cracked too.

[chewiebarker]

I just bought a cracked original wheel on ebay for $1 so I will give it a try soon and report back.

Maybe I will try each of these products (there were lots of cracks) and see which one holds up best over time.

[vectorit]

For a dollar, you can't beat that for a test subject.

[leddzepp]

I used POR epoxy putty and never had a problem with it. Truck is gone now but I also used POR putty on some swimming pool tiles that had popped off. They have been in place for years now, and they sit under water in an environment of chlorine and acid so I am sold on that stuff.

[scotts72heavyhalf]

I like West System Epoxy with the light weight filler that you can lightly sand, that stuff is amazing, you can even add the structural filler and drill and tap into it. Usually available at Marine supply stores, I have done many light rust hole repairs and its as strong as sheet metal.

[pritch]

I can't remember what it's called, but at work we use this really runny epoxy from time to time that we inject into cracks in concrete. I wonder if a guy couldn't just wrap some scotch tape around a crack and inject this right through the tape with a syringe.

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by pritch

I can't remember what it's called, but at work we use this really runny epoxy from time to time that we inject into cracks in concrete. I wonder if a guy couldn't just wrap some scotch tape around a crack and inject this right through the tape with a syringe.

What a great idea...the biggest chore is sanding & forming. I use PC-7 or caulking.

Edit...whoops...glad I use mostly caulking.

[tedfrk]

Is there not some type of body filler that would work for this??

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tedfrk

Is there not some type of body filler that would work for this??

I use a product called "Metal To Metal" for the first coat on all metal repair work. I never thought about trying it on a wheel to see what it would do.

Like Ellen said though, mixing it up and filling the cracks is the easy part...

LockDoc

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I use a product called "Metal To Metal" for the first coat on all metal repair work. I never thought about trying it on a wheel to see what it would do.

Like Ellen said though, mixing it up and filling the cracks is the easy part...

LockDoc

Plus v-groove, cleaning it, plus sanding it, cleaning it, sanding it, cleaning it....

Boring but worth the effort.

[CustomCab66]

Hey everyone,

I'm currently restoring the deluxe wheel for my 66 custom cab. The epoxy I used was this stuff called Quick Steel that can be purchased from almost any hardware or auto parts store. You simply cut off a piece of the epoxy stick role it and fold it between you fingers and apply. As with any crack repair whether be it plastic or steel, the crack needs to be removed completely to stop the crack from traveling. On most of these steering wheels the cracks are deep, so deep that the crack will travel to the steel core of the steering wheel. I used a die grinder with a carbide burr to v out the crack until the crack is no longer visible, even if that meant grinding all the way to the steel core. After that I applied the epoxy forcing it deep into the crack filling it in completely. The toughest part of the restoration was sanding and reshaping the wheel spokes where they meet the steering wheel hub. Here's a pick of my current wheel restoration that had been repaired improperly before and it just re-cracked. I used Dupli-Color Perfect Match part # BTY1610 (Desert Sand Mica @ Autozone) for the color which looks to be spot on with the original color. Still not a bad looking wheel I will find a better looking steering wheel next time before I do any repairs.

Here's a tip: FYI when applying the epoxy shape it as close to the original contour of the steering wheel before it sets up. Bad part is most of these epoxy products set up in 3-4 minutes. The closer you are to the original contour the easier it will be during the sanding and reshaping.

[vectorit]

That came out very nice!

[nobolt]

it looks very good!

[CustomCab66]

Done for now. I will eventually sand it with 400 and add a final coat of paint

[franken]

Considering the diameter of modern wheels is so much larger and the hardness of early wheels, it feels funny driving my old vehicles.

I put a wheelskins leather cover on the Camaro wheel and it feels a lot better. Maybe fix the cracks and get a leather cover? The one I have had to be stitched on with waxed string and looks pretty darn good...

[dmjlambert]

This looks like a good thread to revive to ask does anybody have any old experiences to share with crack repair that has now stood the test of time, if you know what specific product you used. I am not interested in bothering with my steering wheel if all it's going to do is re-crack in the same crack-repaired areas.

[WannaBe68]

Looking at a jacked up original 69 steering wheel and was wondering this exact thing yesterday! Hoping to also see some feedback on old repairs...thanks!

[GypsyTwins]

They have 2 part epoxy's designed for fixing plastic bumpers on cars/trucks. I'm my body shop experience, that would be what I would try. As the one other gentleman said, you'll have to grind back the cracked area to the base of the crack and fill from bottom to top. Nice part is, this stuff is designed for flexibility, and sandability.. so pretty durable and ease of working.

[dmjlambert]

OK, perhaps nobody in the history of this forum has permanently repaired their steering wheel yet, or if they have they can't give up the info on exactly what was used. There's a whole bunch of might be able to use this or might be able to use that, and a whole bunch of I used this and I used that. But then rare is the report back on the failure after time, and no reports that I found of success over time along with the product name and part number. So perhaps some of the 2 part plastic fix would be a good thing to try. We can't know whether it actually works. Whatever it is that I try, I'm going to make notes about the product name and part number. I'll try to report back here in this thread in a couple of years.