Where to find a fuel shut off valve?

[In The Ten Ring]

Always trying to stay 1 step ahead...

Since I expect (hope!) to have my cab to frame bushings in by the end of the week I want to get ready for the fuel line replacement. I want to put in a fuel shutoff valve at the tank behind the seat.

Where do I find one though? I haven't had much luck searching online.

I'd like one like this.....

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...hg-c2aKGew.jpg

I just plan to connect it with rubber hose and hose clamps.

[MARKDTN]

Do a search for "tank selector valve". You could block off 1 side.

http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/produ...ord-bronco-new

[boostedc10]

Jegs has the Earl shut off valves if that is what you are looking for.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%27s/361/2...FclDMgodDWEAqg

[cdowns]

go to an autoparts store or a boat supply store and ask for a fuel shutoff valve

[In The Ten Ring]

What do ya'll think of this one?

I'd need two hose fittings for it though.

http://www.bfmarineinc.com/cgi-local...de=show_detail

[boostedc10]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

What do ya'll think of this one?

I'd need two hose fittings for it though.

http://www.bfmarineinc.com/cgi-local...de=show_detail

If that's all your looking for the have them at lowes or home depot.

[In The Ten Ring]

(No Home Depot in my area). I don't think Lowe's carries fuel valves...there may not be a difference but I am squeamish about that. Also, I don't think water valves come in 3/8" diameters.

[C. M. Wolf]

May I ask why you favor a shut off valve in the fuel line itself? (As opposed to running an electric fuel pump and simply wiring an electric switch to shut off the power to the pump, instead).

Just curious..

Michael

[In The Ten Ring]

50% because I don't know a thing about wiring.

25% because I am confident I can do the plumbing for a valve (I have some plumbing experience and I'm going to make my new fuel lines anyway so now is the time).

25% because I like to layer my defenses.

Bonus: I want to put in an extra fuel filter under the passenger side of the cab and a fuel valve would keep me from dumping gasoline all over my garage floor when changing that.

[C. M. Wolf]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

50% because I don't know a thing about wiring.

Yeah, lots of people don't know all that much about wiring... like many people that try to steal vehicles. Which really screws with a would-be thief when you don't mark your switches with anything but colored lighted switches.

25% because I am confident I can do the plumbing for a valve (I have some plumbing experience and I'm going to make my new fuel lines anyway so now is the time).

Ok, but the electric wiring for an electric fuel pump is even easier than the tubing for 'em... Hot wire from positive side fuse box, to the on/off switch, from the switch to the fuel pump, wire ground from fuel pump to frame. (if you install a positive/negative wired fuel pump, simply run the positive wire through the switch and the negative wire direct back to the negative side of the fuse box, & attach ground wire to frame or body, whichever is easier/better... you don't even have to use the vehicles fuse box as long as you get a 12v fuel pump, it can be run direct from a main hot/positive lead, into a fuse of the correct amps for the fuel pump, then into the switch, & into the fuel pump).

25% because I like to layer my defenses.

I'm right there with ya on that one! (I even one-upped ya on this, I have "Rotties" that love my trucks just as much as me). I run a set of separate fog lights, a separate back-up light,(I also haul horse trailer & like the extra light down by the hitch), an electrical 'kill switch', and an electrical fuel pump... all set up on a small bank of different colored, lighted, unmarked, switches just under the dash below the ash tray,(except for the 'kill switch', which is better hidden).

Bonus: I want to put in an extra fuel filter under the passenger side of the cab and a fuel valve would keep me from dumping gasoline all over my garage floor when changing that.

Ok, but that's what I thought God made vice-grips for... ..unless you're running braided steel flex lines for the soft fuel lines instead of the basic rubber ones...



Michael

[In The Ten Ring]

Would this work for my truck?

I plan on using rubber fuel line and hose clamps for connections.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_369208-33599...lve&facetInfo=

[wreckedchevy]

I don't see why it wouldn't that's the kinda farmer engineering I'm used to. I know I've heard your suppose to avoid rubber fuel lines as much as possible but mine are 20years old now and I haven't had any problems just make sure they can't rub anywhere.

[wreckedchevy]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...shut-off-valve
I just checked amazon and there's a ton of them
Amazon.com: fuel shut off valve

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by wreckedchevy

I don't see why it wouldn't that's the kinda farmer engineering I'm used to. I know I've heard your suppose to avoid rubber fuel lines as much as possible but mine are 20years old now and I haven't had any problems just make sure they can't rub anywhere.

A complete system out of rubber line is a no-no for sure. But you have to have short rubber pieces that connect the hard line to the fuel pump and the hard line to the fuel tank. So it allows for some flex.

Gary

[volksworld]

the lowes one you show is set up for pex so the barbs are different from normal ones but will probably seal just fine...the marine one is good cause it has a mounting tab but 3/8 pipe thread is overkill and makes it unnecessarily bulky....the tractor supply one looks like a plastic p.o.s. for a lawnmower...a 1/4 inch ball valve rated for propane from a plumbing supply house is all you need(with two 1/4 pipe x 5/16 barbed fittings and some Teflon tape)

[In The Ten Ring]

Oh don't worry guys, I'm not going to use rubber hose for the whole line!

I am going to use Poly Armor metal line and rubber fuel line hose for the connecting sections (copying what was there before) with hose clamps.

I finally found THIS which is what I had been looking for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inline-Fuel-...-/171258881747

*Wreckedchevy: thanks for the one you found me, it does look compact, but I'm a bit fearful of plactic myself. The water valve is set up for PEX and although I love PEX for plumbing, I might ought to use one made for rubber hose.

*Now that boat one I might could fix up so it could actually mount to the tank with a magnent or velcro or something......volksworld is on to something there.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by C. M. Wolf

Yeah, lots of people don't know all that much about wiring... like many people that try to steal vehicles. Which really screws with a would-be thief when you don't mark your switches with anything but colored lighted switches.

Ok, but the electric wiring for an electric fuel pump is even easier than the tubing for 'em... Hot wire from positive side fuse box, to the on/off switch, from the switch to the fuel pump, wire ground from fuel pump to frame. (if you install a positive/negative wired fuel pump, simply run the positive wire through the switch and the negative wire direct back to the negative side of the fuse box, & attach ground wire to frame or body, whichever is easier/better... you don't even have to use the vehicles fuse box as long as you get a 12v fuel pump, it can be run direct from a main hot/positive lead, into a fuse of the correct amps for the fuel pump, then into the switch, & into the fuel pump).

I'm right there with ya on that one! (I even one-upped ya on this, I have "Rotties" that love my trucks just as much as me). I run a set of separate fog lights, a separate back-up light,(I also haul horse trailer & like the extra light down by the hitch), an electrical 'kill switch', and an electrical fuel pump... all set up on a small bank of different colored, lighted, unmarked, switches just under the dash below the ash tray,(except for the 'kill switch', which is better hidden).


Ok, but that's what I thought God made vice-grips for... ..unless you're running braided steel flex lines for the soft fuel lines instead of the basic rubber ones...



Michael

Thanks man, very good stuff here!

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by volksworld

the lowes one you show is set up for pex so the barbs are different from normal ones but will probably seal just fine...the marine one is good cause it has a mounting tab but 3/8 pipe thread is overkill and makes it unnecessarily bulky....the tractor supply one looks like a plastic p.o.s. for a lawnmower...a 1/4 inch ball valve rated for propane from a plumbing supply house is all you need(with two 1/4 pipe x 5/16 barbed fittings and some Teflon tape)

Isn't the fuel supply line (not the vent line) 3/8 inch though?