Issues Continue. LOL. Header gasket blew, what brand to replace it?

[UATahoe]

I am running Dougs tri-ty headers that have an oval port design. The headers are for 73-87 trucks. The motor is a 383 with vortec heads. Any resommendations on what header gaskets to buy? I used the ones included wth the Dougs headers and it blew out this morning on the way to work. Sounds awful. LOL. The whole suqare round or oval port thing is messing with my head. Any suggestions on which style gasket to get (round or square)? Thanks guys!

[dieseldawg142]

you should try Remflex, had them on my crew for 3 yrs with zero issues. tried aluminum gaskets, they came apart, tried copper core, same thing. use remflex & you won't have to worry about them again
http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/75.htm

[BADAZ chevy guy]

I never used gaskets on a set of headers. I just made sure the headers were flat and true before bolting them to the heads.

[UATahoe]

Do I need square or round port gaskets?

[gramps77]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

I never used gaskets on a set of headers. I just made sure the headers were flat and true before bolting them to the heads.

"never" used a set of gaskets? Its impossible to have them seal and be reliable the way most of us drive these trucks. I've always used whatever the header manufacturer recommends and left it at that. Fel Pro is usually the ticket and never more than $15 a pair. Ive tried the expensive other types and didnt seal as well as they should.
In one case, soaked some cheapies in some water before installing to swell, let dry, never had them leak

[UATahoe]

well the headers have an oval port design but the heads are Vortec which werent stock for the original small block. Wasnt really sure what to follow. The gaskets i used were the ones supplied by Dougs and now they are toast. LOL. Should i go with these??

http://catalog.remflex.com/CHEVROLET...ket_p/2011.htm

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by gramps77

"never" used a set of gaskets? Its impossible to have them seal and be reliable the way most of us drive these trucks. I've always used whatever the header manufacturer recommends and left it at that. Fel Pro is usually the ticket and never more than $15 a pair. Ive tried the expensive other types and didnt seal as well as they should.
In one case, soaked some cheapies in some water before installing to swell, let dry, never had them leak

NEVER!!! first time I tried a set without gaskets was on a 81 CJ5 and after I discovered what I needed to do to make sure they set right, I never used gaskets after that. I've done it on 2 BBC 454's and 3 SBC 350's. I've only had a leak once on one of the SBC and fixed it with a large flat file and a little bench work. The trick is to get the flanges flat and not to tork the crap out of them when installing them. Then re tighten them 3 or 4 times after you drive the truck. After the 4th time they won't ever leak again.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by UATahoe

well the headers have an oval port design but the heads are Vortec which werent stock for the original small block. Wasnt really sure what to follow. The gaskets i used were the ones supplied by Dougs and now they are toast. LOL. Should i go with these??

http://catalog.remflex.com/CHEVROLET...ket_p/2011.htm

yes those will work. sometimes you might have to file down a bit if there hanging inside.
3 yrs so far on mine & going strong! never had to re-torque after one initial torquedown. my big prob for leaks is my header collectors, hedmann with ball & socket. constantly having to re-torque them (2-3 times a yr). used gr 8 with lock washers & locktite & they still manage to work loose. next step-wire them!

[UATahoe]

Should be a fun pain in the rear thing to fix. LOL. I guess i will park it until i can get around to fixing it.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

I never used gaskets on a set of headers. I just made sure the headers were flat and true before bolting them to the heads.

I use to like customers like you. Paid good money to have a burn channel between the two center exhaust ports on their sbc heads filled and re-machined. Not as much an issue with a big block for obvious reasons. Anyway ... making sure the flange is flat is always a good idea. Also a good idea to cut the flange to isolate the pipes so they can expand independent of each other. Soaking cheapie gaskets in water first helps too.

[UATahoe]

Thanks for all of the tips guys! Hope to get this knocked out quick.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by GRX

I use to like customers like you. Paid good money to have a burn channel between the two center exhaust ports on their sbc heads filled and re-machined. Not as much an issue with a big block for obvious reasons. Anyway ... making sure the flange is flat is always a good idea. Also a good idea to cut the flange to isolate the pipes so they can expand independent of each other. Soaking cheapie gaskets in water first helps too.

I'm not sure what you mean by "burn channel between the two center exhaust ports". I never had to have any machine work on the heads. I did cut the flanges apart. (Forgot about that part)

[Aaron_L]

I never use gaskets either. I use Ultra Copper RTV. I've heard of people using the red too, but I never have. Just make sure both surfaces are clean, put RTV on the header and allow it to "skin up" before installing. Once installed & tightened don't start it until it's completely set up. I've never had a leak doing it like this.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by Aaron_L

I never use gaskets either. I use Ultra Copper RTV. I've heard of people using the red too, but I never have. Just make sure both surfaces are clean, put RTV on the header and allow it to "skin up" before installing. Once installed & tightened don't start it until it's completely set up. I've never had a leak doing it like this.

never tried RTV, but it sounds like it would work.

[donut]

Works on collector's also.

[anubisani]

the red 1 works