Steering Gear - Worm Gear and Circulating Balls

[BrianG]

Okay, so an input seal job went really bad and the worm gear ended up coming out of my steering gear. The unit was unbolted from the frame but the pitman arm still attached. Truck is down to just the frame, so I had lots of room to work on it. All I was trying to do is stop the input shaft leak. I was able to put the parts back together and it seems to turn okay. Question is, ... Am I SOL? Did I loose the recirculating balls down into the pump? Is there no chance that they might have stayed in place? (I honestly don't really know the internals of these).

If they did come out, is there any way to put them back where they go without removing the pitman arm?

Anyone with experience with these things, please give me some advice.

[sboris]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=508317

This might help.

[Bigdav160]

What happens to most people is the spool valve comes out with the adjuster plug then they fail to align the pins properly when reinstalling.

If the worm gear comes out, or unscrews when the box is inverted, the the balls will fall out of the nut. Then it's time to take the whole thing apart.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

What happens to most people is the spool valve comes out with the adjuster plug then they fail to align the pins properly when reinstalling.

If the worm gear comes out, or unscrews when the box is inverted, the the balls will fall out of the nut. Then it's time to take the whole thing apart.

I was afraid of that. ... and that is a definite correct? that's not a maybe or sometimes, or if you are unlucky?

[68gmsee]

I used this site to dismantle my gear box and replace the seals. Has lots of pictures. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...build-how.html

If you scroll to almost the end, there's a picture that shows you how to reinsert the balls back in and if you look carefully he tells you to rotate the piston so you can reinsert them.

Click here to view the piston I'm referring to but it's best to scroll down from the first URL posted to get a better ideas of what you need to do.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/P1010432.jpg?t=1176185659

[Husker]

Good Info
Thanks
Ron

[SS Tim]

Might want to check out the factory overhaul manual too.

* VIN/Model Decoders
* Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio)
* Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID
* RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

[POPO1984]

good info too

[BrianG]

I think I'm going to try one of those A1-Cardone rebuilt units. I had originally debated about even trying to put the input seal in because things were getting pretty loose. The top "adjusting" (yeah, I know its not really meant for that) nut had been 'adjusted' once or twice by the previous owner, and he had mentioned that it might need to be replaced at some time. I was trying to save some money and buy some time by just replacing the leaky seal. After hearing about a few horror stories of wheel lock, I'm not too willing to bet my newly restored truck to the chances of something going wrong in me rebuilding it. Of course I suppose the same could happen with one rebuilt by A1-Cardone or anyone else, but I'm hoping that I get a good one.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I think I'm going to try one of those A1-Cardone rebuilt units.....

Best route to go if you have any doubts about the gearbox or don't have the time to read all the info on them. However, be aware that some companies won't take units that have been taken apart and messed with in exchange.

Before digging into mine, I studied and read lots of material on them -including the what not to do warnings. Once I did, I found it was pretty straight forward.