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05-21-2014, 06:14 PM | #1 |
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Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Working on bagging my 70 C10, taking my time doing it after hours and the week ends. I have a few question maybe some of you who's been there might be able to help me out. Working on the front and placed the bag in it location and checking for clearances. I noticed that my sway bar comes pretty close the bag at its lowest position. With the control arm setting flat the end of the bar is about half an inch from the bag. Does anyone think that this might be a problem? It doesn't rub so I think it might be ok. Also how are any of you who have done this routing your air lines? Does anyone have a diagram I could possibly follow, what connectors did you use or any thing else you could offer, to help me get this done, at least by then end of July...
Any help would be greatly appreciated... Here's a pic of the sway bar and the bag, drivers side.. And another at its closest position, 1/2''...... |
05-21-2014, 08:31 PM | #2 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Hello legotech7. I can't answer the sway part of your question but I will mention that as the bag inflate and deflate, make sure the bag has clearance and doesn't rub. That will a failure waiting to happen. As for your routing of air line, what size line will you be using? What type of valves are you using, electric or manual? For my set up I used 1/4 paddle valves. I routed my line along the frame rail into the cab. Make sure the air line has no kinks. I drilled 2 holes, one on each side or the cross member so the air line will pass thru, along the frame rail. Most of my connectors/fittings are DOT, push to connect with the loctite 545 to prevent leaks on the threads. I hope that helps, Clark.
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05-21-2014, 08:50 PM | #3 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Thanks dec010974, I will be using 1/4'' dot line. Here's what I was thinking to use as far as connectors. Starting withe the front, run the lines from each bag to a tee connector and a line to the paddle valves for the front. And for the rear the same thing. It seems pretty straight forward, just thought maybe others might have different ways of doing it. Yes mine are also manual valves, the paddle type. Where did you mount you tank and compressors? As for the sway bar, there is no rubbing anywhere,but I think I might cut off another 1/2'' just to be sure. Waiting for others to chime in.
Thanks again.. Joe....... |
05-21-2014, 08:53 PM | #4 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Mark and cut your sway bar off just behind the a-arm bushing.
This will give you plenty of room. Do NOT Tee the air lines together. Run a separate line and switch to each bag,... otherwise you will have air transfer from bag to bag as you go around corners. It will increase body lean.
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05-21-2014, 10:08 PM | #5 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Thanks Keith,I think I will cut the bar, but do you think I will need mounting brackets like the ones offered by ECE or is there something else I could use? As for the lines, I'm pretty new at this, is it possible you could make a quick diagram as to how to run them? Or some other reference some where... I'm trying to picture this in my head and can't seem to see it clearly...
Thanks again..... |
05-21-2014, 10:17 PM | #6 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
I would use a shorter ECE style mount for the sway bar bushing or just mount it directly to the frame.
The air line routing will depend on what type of switches/air management you use. Are you using manual valves? Or what?
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05-21-2014, 10:19 PM | #7 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Have you seen this thread?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575686
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05-22-2014, 01:54 PM | #8 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Yes I saw the thread, good info, but I still need visual for the air lines. I'll have to search the net some more. I am running manual valves, the paddle type......
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05-22-2014, 06:07 PM | #9 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Run the lines where you can fit them & they are farthest away from harm (heat or sharp edges). There's more than 1 right way so just avoid heat & edges. I wrap mine in heat shield material if they come within 6" of exhaust pipe or utilize rubber fuel hose anywhere the lines rub a metal edge.
Route the lines along the inside channel of frame. Zip tie them to other items or use clips to keep them from moving around. Use rubber grommets where you enter the cab. As mentioned, the only lines ok to T are the supply lines to the paddle valves. Once the air leaves the paddle valves, each line needs to be separate.
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05-22-2014, 06:15 PM | #10 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Thank you guys. I have every thing I need to plum bit up. Scoti, I think I understand the connection as long as each connection from the paddle valves are connected to its own air bag, correct? The are a lot of diagrams that show the connections to solenoids, but I couldn't find any for the manual valves....... Once I figure this out, I'll do video tracing the line connections on a simple manual valve set up. I know folks always have questions about this type of set up, and maybe it might help some else................
Last edited by legotech7; 05-22-2014 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Spelling |
05-22-2014, 06:22 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Quote:
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05-22-2014, 06:24 PM | #12 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Or this?
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05-22-2014, 06:27 PM | #13 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Most Air-Lift valves come pre-plumbed,...
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05-22-2014, 06:35 PM | #14 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Lowlife you da man! This will help me immensely. I have that exact gauge set up. Where did you find those? Anyway I think now I can proceed with a little more confidence. I can't thank you enough. Still going to make the vid.....
Thanks again....... |
05-22-2014, 06:37 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Quote:
Post pics of your complete truck some time,...
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05-22-2014, 06:38 PM | #16 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Will do and thanks........
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06-01-2014, 04:15 PM | #17 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Well I have my air line query's resolved, but noticed something as I was installing the bags in the front. What if anyone, have done with the bump stops in the upper control arm? Its a small rubber stop. Did you remove them or replace them with something smaller? Or perhaps cut them down a bit?
Suggestions please.... Thanks...... |
06-01-2014, 04:56 PM | #18 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Leave them in.
They help control the amount the wheels fall when the truck is off the ground.
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06-01-2014, 04:57 PM | #19 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
But the shock will do the same thing.
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06-01-2014, 07:23 PM | #20 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
I was thinking of leaving them in anyway, but if I take the stops out and simply depend on the shocks, would that hurt anything? I will be putting the lowered shocks in, front and rear. Will that make any difference?
Thanks again....... |
06-02-2014, 12:10 AM | #21 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Back to the original question..... youd be best off cutting 3/4" off of each side. I found out rom experience they will touch the bag if you dont
I ended up cutting the rubber stop mounts on the lca's and put in shorter universal cone style ones but by cutting the og bump stops i lost the steer stops also. So my steering was kinda extreme. After a few too many too sharp turns i put in new lca's and left the steer stops in them
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1967custom Last edited by michael bustamante; 06-02-2014 at 12:16 AM. |
06-02-2014, 08:14 AM | #22 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
I'm not talking about the lower control arms with the bump stops; because I'm bagging mine I needed to remove them because they would have hit or rubbed up against the bags. I'm talking about the upper control arms, that have a slightly smaller rubber stop, but looking at it further If i remove them, they will hit the arm the bag is bolted to that might cause some damage I might not foresee? I'm leaning towards leaving them in....
Anyone else? |
06-02-2014, 08:36 AM | #23 | |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Quote:
Their job is to keep the uppper arms travel limited (which limits everything else connected). When the front end is raised off the ground, they limit excessive 'droop'.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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06-02-2014, 11:22 AM | #24 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
Thank you guy's for all your input. Its taking me a while to get this done. RA is *****, so I do a bit on my good days... I'll post some pics up when all is said and done...
Thanks again.......... |
06-02-2014, 12:09 PM | #25 |
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Re: Bagging my 70 c10, A few questions....
You're definitely not the only guy in the 'taking longer than expected' boat. Heck.... I'm the ships captain LoL....
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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