Intake woes

[Houston Ben]

Hi all,
I finally got around to installing my sanden compressor on pass side with DD mount. Problem is, now I have to buy a new intake and was looking at either a u-build-it airaid or Spectre flex tube. Using the flex tube I will have to find a way to make my delphi MAF work.

The space between the ac and the e-fan is barely over 4" and a 4" tube will fit but do I need a 4" tube? Will a 3" work fine? The engine is a stock 5.3 with tune and I am using a modified stock intake for now, does anyone know the diameter of that?







Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Ben

[66LSx]

Not sure if its feasible for you and what you all have on the drivers side fenderwell....

I took my Spectre 9900 and flipped the tube backwards, went just above the alternator pulley on my 1966 c10 / 5.3... and put it to the driver side (is suppose to be on the passenger side)

[BR3W CITY]

You need a Cobra Head



4" diameter, retains volume through bend by ovaling. Same concept as the supercar exhausts that oval out to pass under skid plates.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You need a Cobra Head



4" diameter, retains volume through bend by ovaling. Same concept as the supercar exhausts that oval out to pass under skid plates.

Any info on where to get one, is this a Ford Cobra part number?

[BR3W CITY]

lol no. its called that because of the shape

http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...vc?Screen=SFNT

[solidaxel]

Found it 90CB40 $27.xx
Thanks

[BR3W CITY]

fwiw I JUST bought a 90* regular elbow from AirRaid's BUI kit. Its thick plastic, pretty nice, but not perfect. The rubber stuff from intakehoses.com is the same rubber they use for Diesel truck parts, so its good to extreme temps and even hold pressure decently well (for boost-side stuff in other applications).

[Houston Ben]

Thanks for all the replies. What r the thoughts on 3" vs 4" tube?

[Houston Ben]

Looking at everything again I think I'm gunna undo part of my harness and run the MAF and intake on the driver side.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Houston Ben

Looking at everything again I think I'm gunna undo part of my harness and run the MAF and intake on the driver side.

It was easier than moving the battery!

[BR3W CITY]

Devils advocate to you tho.....our IAT's really really SUCK under the hoods of these trucks. I had the same base intake, and the heat soak is terrible. The ecm also gets warm, so your putting the filter over another heat source.

Ideally, the intake filter needs to be seperated from the engine bay. I started addressing this myself recently, and had to built an intake heatshield, relocated the path, and I went and modded the core support as well. Pics and video are coming.

[Houston Ben]

Thanks Solid and Br3w. I m with ya on the IAT B, if I stand still too long the temps get up there quick so here is what I am thinking:



Are too many bends bad for intake? Also, anyone know of a MAF mount or do I need to purchase a new one?

Br3w, is the airaid same thickness as the original intake tube?

Also, I only have about 2" of clearance from the top of the rad, so not much room.

Thanks again guys

[BR3W CITY]

Thats a similar path mine takes, just to the other side by the old battery spot.

The airaid tube is plastic, but it doesn't seem much thicker than the aluminum tube.

Is your MAF the in-line, or is it the drop-in/blade style

[solidaxel]

Like most everything I do, that is where I would like it to end up!
Go ahead and let me see how you made it work in the new position, and how many bends you used.
I will need to cut the long pipe to make the MAF fit, as the wire lead is too short to move it to end by the filter. This kit also came with a "box" for the filter and I need to open up the knock out in the core support. I am sure it will drop the intake temp when it is complete.
Keep me posted Ben

[Houston Ben]

YES!!! Found something I've been looking for for a long time. If you have the Delphi style MAF like I do here is the weld on bung or whole piece you can buy

http://mrpmachineshop.com/2014/04/30...10055-sensors/

This will help out a bunch, the bung is only $22 on ebay!

Solid, I will keep you posted but the update will be a while as I go on vacation for a few weeks here soon!

[pwradder]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Devils advocate to you tho.....our IAT's really really SUCK under the hoods of these trucks. I had the same base intake, and the heat soak is terrible. The ecm also gets warm, so your putting the filter over another heat source.

Ideally, the intake filter needs to be seperated from the engine bay. I started addressing this myself recently, and had to built an intake heatshield, relocated the path, and I went and modded the core support as well. Pics and video are coming.

very true! after finishing the swap in my '80 i ended up with almost the same intake configuration pictured- truck felt like an animal until it reached full operating temp during normal driving, after that it felt just a little ''soft''. during my first celebratory burnout i thought, wait-that's it? were'd the power go? on a hunch i checked to see what my inlet temp was and holy crap, it was 127 degrees on a 70 degree day! after checking the tuner software i also found out that the computer is pulling 5 degrees of timing with that kind of inlet temp at wot! needless to say, i have started fabbing a simple cold air box myself. definitely a mod worth doing!

[Hart_Rod]

I built a cold air box for my truck that pulls air from the front of the core support. I was driving home from Biloxi, MS yesterday and the OAT was in the low 90s. My IAT's were <115 while cruising and only climbed to 125 when I got in stop and go traffic for about 20 minutes. I plan on putting some fatmat inside the box to see if that will help bring them down some more.

[BlueJeep]

Hart Rod can you post some more pics of your setup? Are you using a cone filter inside the box? Are you at all worried about water? Thanks!

[BR3W CITY]

Intake is pretty much how it was, plus a 90* at the end into the box. Rough cut the core support on the intside to fit the nose of the filter inward (its long). Roughed out a base shape base for the outside from galv steel. Still gotta make a lid, mount the filter, mount all the weatherstripping, and clean it all up and coat the pipes etc. Prob going to weld the alum pipes together to remove the extra coupling.

I'm debating adding some gold heat-flect material since its cool

[solidaxel]

Good idea Br3w, I like it, it should work at 180 * to the right.
Good point about water, like we see alot here, but a big concern with the air filter

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Good idea Br3w, I like it, it should work at 180 * to the right.
Good point about water, like we see alot here, but a big concern with the air filter

The only people that hydrolok motors are import drivers with intake filters 2" off the ground. Or people that use water injection without a clue.

In the core support, water would have to spray straight up, and even then it would only touch maybe the first 3" of a 7" filter. IF you really are worried about it, just put a dry-sock over the filter. They are pretty cheap, and the Jeep guys never hydrolok their junk, and they almost submerge em.

OR you can put one of those "bellows" in the intake path, which helps prevent water from being sucked up, even if it does touch the filter.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Hart Rod can you post some more pics of your setup? Are you using a cone filter inside the box? Are you at all worried about water? Thanks!

Here are a few more pics. I'm using a K&N cone filter. I supposed it could be affected by water but it's not a straight shot through the grill opening, so it would have to be raining pretty hard to affect the filter. If it's raining that hard, I will probably pull over some where, .

[BR3W CITY]

Beat on mine for a little today. Sorry for Sh!t pictures, I'll get better ones, and the video.

A show of how it sat, for review.






Inside edges are all seam-seal taped and there is rubber gasketing around the base and sides of the lid.

Now I just gotta get the tube cleaned up, and decide on the finish of the box.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Beat on mine for a little today. Sorry for Sh!t pictures, I'll get better ones, and the video.

Inside edges are all seam-seal taped and there is rubber gasketing around the base and sides of the lid.

Now I just gotta get the tube cleaned up, and decide on the finish of the box.

Nice!

[Houston Ben]

Looks good Br3w! The older C10's must have more hood clearance because I can't run my intake that high off the engine, I wish I could as that would make things a lot easier!! Wish I could work on my truck NOW, but it has to wait till after vaca! BTW, what size pipe is that that you are running for your coolant?