disk brake swap next step?

[paulbrgr9999]

Got the front end brake parts and suspension off a 72 chevy c20. Cant say the parts look especially good to a novice like me. Some rust but the metal still seems solid. See pics.

should this entire assembly be disassembled and rebuilt and repainted? I dont care to much about how it looks. Functionality is what matters. I use the truck a lot and want to get this done soon. I dont have time to tear it all down and rebuild it.

I know none of you can closely examine it but do you think its ok to install with the rust on the control arms?

I will have a shop replace the rotors, wheel bearings, calipers, pads etc.

Can I get opinions and suggestions?

thanks,

paul

[brown7373]

Did you get the combination valve, or the proportioning valve and hold off valve? Drum brakes use a distribution block. Drum brake lines from the master to the front wheels are most likely different too. And a new or rebuilt master cylinder for disk brakes. While it is off, check to make sure the control arm bushings are not in need of replacement, as well as the ball joints. It is a LOT easier and cheaper to do that now. If it needs done later, you will again need to remove everything from the truck and do or pay for the labor twice.

I just did a conversion on a 72 Cutlass from power drum to power disk. I also needed the 2 brackets that attach to the frame and hold the rubber brake line and attaches to the metal brake line.. The ones for drums aren't in the right position.

I know you sais you wanted to get it done soon, but you also need it done right.

[paulbrgr9999]

Yup, I have the proportioning valve and the whole system. I bought it from a m3ember of our forum.

[davepl]

I did the same thing. I tore mine down to every individual piece, from tie rod sleeves to bleeder valves, rebuilt everything. Powder coated, assembled, looks great.

As you may have noticed the front lug studs are 9/16 and if your truck is a 70 or earlier, which I'm going to guess it is, you'll have 1/2 inch. So that means (a) your wheels may or may not fit, and (b) you'll have different studs and nuts and potentially wheels front to back.

I wound up converting the whole truck to 9/16

You will also need new lines, or to try to make something work by bending the old ones. Also the reservoirs are reversed front to back if matters (look for a fairly detailed post I did on this).

You might need to buy some bigger sockets for those end nuts. You will also need some serious torque not only to get them off but also to put them on, and you need a torque wrench and a shop manual for the torque values (ideally, but I'm sure others have done without).

[paulbrgr9999]

I took a nut off the front wheel. Your right it does not thread onto the stud on the rotor on the swap brakes.

How can I know for sure weather my rims will work before I start tearing everthing apart? The tires are almost new. Obviously I will have to buy 2 sets of lugs for the new rotors, but new wheels? Not good.

you said may or may not fit. How can I know now for sure? This could an expensive problem. New wheels and tires all the way around!

thanks,

paul

[67chevemall]

Not only the 1/2" studs but if you have 67-68 rims you will need to mods or 69+ rims

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

Not only the 1/2" studs but if you have 67-68 rims you will need to mods or 69+ rims

Its a 1970 with steel rims. Im going to take a wheel off the truck when I get time and see how it fits on the parts now laying on the floor in my garage. I also droped by a brake shop and they thought the wheels would probably work.

I hope this is not to stupid a question but: can you run different size rims on the front vs the back of the truck? Say 17 on the front and 16.5 on the back. Or 16 on the front and 16.5 on the back? Its the rear tires I really want to keep.

paul

[67chevemall]

Run what ever you want. personal pref... I like 4 the same so I can rotate all 5 wheels.
I also run slicks on the back with 15X9 on the front. Wheel size is 27" on front and 33 on the back.

cheers

[paulbrgr9999]

Then I need two spares. That just occured to me. Thats not good. So I think that would be the biggest disadvantage.

paul

[67chevemall]

Unless you get a good deal on flatbeds or CAA PLUS coverage. lol

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

Unless you get a good deal on flatbeds or CAA PLUS coverage. lol

I have AAA+ 100 miles towing.

[davepl]

If you treat it as truly a spare, you could get away with a slightly different size tire to get you to a tire store. Unless you have a limited slip differential, then you couldn't run it on the rear axle.

So, if you have to go with a single spare, pick one that matches the rear axle, I guess.