Brothers Crossmember Install Headaches/Questions

[ts71281]

Ok guys, here's what's going on.

My 70 SWB used to be a 307 3/speed manual truck. Long story short, years ago I swapped in a 468 big block with a 4 speed Muncie M20. At the time I did the swap, I used the proper '70 engine stands and motor mounts for a big block. I retained the factory 3speed manual crossmember (bell housing supported one) and kept everything else original.

Well, the headers always gave me the fits (flowtech's) Rubbing here, rubbing there, leaking, rusting, etc.

I recently purchased a set of the mid-length hedman 69170 headers. The drivers side one went on and in in about 1 minute. The passenger side collector however runs right into the stupid 3 speed manual crossmember. In a pinch, I bought one of the brothers transmission crossmembers from a board vendor here thinking this would be a quick swap and then knock out the rivets for the 3speed housing. WRONG.
The crossmember I purchased was this one:



Getting started on this project, I installed the proper tailshaft rubber mount onto my Muncie, then I proceeded to put the crossmember in. I had to undo the emergency brake cable since that was in the way, cut my exhaust pipes out of the way (my fault for putting them in the wrong spot)

Long story short, I got the crossmember in and under the transmission but now here's where more frustration sets in. The holes in the crossmember are all half-ass lined up with the factory holes in the frame.

Can I simply just elongate the holes in the aftermarket member? I'm not a believer in permanently altering my factory chassis.

The next obstacle I noticed, the hurst comp shifter I'm using hits the crossmember when I attempt to put the truck in reverse. The arm on the shifter that the linkage goes into rubs right on top. I had to take a BFH to the top and put about a 1/4" deep dent in it for the shifter to clear. I hated to do it, but I couldn't see another choice. I didn't want a new shifter, I didn't want to shim the trans up, and I didn't want to cut a hole (possibly weaken the member)

Which leads me to my last question. Why does this crossmember have 4 mounting points to the frame? Every muscle car I've been under (Chevelle SS's, GTO's and Olds 442's) have a crossmember for the manual transmission that only attaches with 4 bolts.

Why does this aftermarket one have 8 bolt holes? Again, I don't want to drill into my upper frame rail. Can I just cut the uprights off from this aftermarket crossmember so the top part doesn't rattle against the frame rail? I was considering doing this and just using the lower 4 holes once I ream them out. This crossmember has to be the sorriest fitting thing I've ever installed in my truck.

If I can't get this to go, I might go with one like CPP makes




What's everyone's thoughts on me cutting the uprights off and not using them? Does it really strengthen the frame that much? Also, if I do keep it, how on earth am I supposed to get a drill inbetween my frame rails to make new holes? I really don't want to if I don't have to.